Tyee 2020

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Posted: Apr 29, 2021 at 13:00 Quote
I'll probably get flamed for this but are people converting 27.5 Tyee's to mullet or 29"? I own a 29" and have a 27.5+ wheel sitting around Smile

Posted: Apr 29, 2021 at 13:14 Quote
ryan83 wrote:
I'll probably get flamed for this but are people converting 27.5 Tyee's to mullet or 29"? I own a 29" and have a 27.5+ wheel sitting around Smile

Remy Metailler is running a 29er frame with 27,5 if that helps. Fits him, he also runs 180mm in the front and really stiff which helps with the lower BB.

But either way would work, some might enjoy the shorter chain stay of the 27,5 frame etc.

Posted: Apr 29, 2021 at 23:42 Quote
The 29 fork and wheeel with 10mm less travel on the 27 frame is much superior than what remy did. Respect though.

Posted: Apr 30, 2021 at 8:16 Quote
Uchwmdr wrote:
The 29 fork and wheeel with 10mm less travel on the 27 frame is much superior than what remy did. Respect though.

Interesting opinion...I would think because he's sponsored he could get whatever he wanted. That said, I'm not sending it down those crazy walls. Side note, I have a Decoy mullet and speak to the advantages of that setup. I'll just have to put my wheel on and try it out. Stay tuned for a full report!

Posted: Apr 30, 2021 at 9:51 Quote
Depends what the goal is: seems kind of logical to me that 10mm increase in front suspension and a slightly slacker front is the way to go in Remi's case. Higher front to balance out BB drop is a practical way of doing it. He has already shorter cranks too: 170mm.
Also he explains in his video's is that the he prefers the longer chain stays on the 29". Thus another reason for choosing to use a 29 frame as a basis. I also like the longer chainstays, way more centered on the bike compared to previous bike.

Going for a 10mm less front suspension (so 160mm) and 29 on a 27,5" is another approach which is taming the bike down a bit by making it a shorter travel bike. And off course the chainstays are shorter, which might be a pro or con based on what someone wants.

BTW: those stock 175mm cranks are to long for me: 170mm I found much better. I have 35"/90cm inseam, so physically I can run long cranks, but just doesn't work for me on Enduro and DH with these low BB's. (My DH has 165mm even)

Posted: Apr 30, 2021 at 11:32 Quote
What he did slackens both angles on two levels: one from the smaller rear wheel, and other from the bigger fork. Mine is slackened by the 29 up front, but a little steepened by the shorter fork travel. HAS ANYONE experienced creaking from the rear pivots/bearings??

Posted: May 4, 2021 at 0:22 Quote
Grumposaur wrote:
BTW: those stock 175mm cranks are to long for me: 170mm I found much better. I have 35"/90cm inseam, so physically I can run long cranks, but just doesn't work for me on Enduro and DH with these low BB's. (My DH has 165mm even)

I am finding the same, I have 175's on currently but am thinking about dropping them to 170. Technincal climbs I seem to get a few strikes and help me get looser. Smile

Posted: May 4, 2021 at 4:08 Quote
wilkomtb wrote:
I am finding the same, I have 175's on currently but am thinking about dropping them to 170. Technincal climbs I seem to get a few strikes and help me get looser. Smile

I'm thinking of going to 170mm for the same reason!

How are you getting on with the sizing now? Have you got used to the extra reach?

Posted: May 4, 2021 at 7:56 Quote
terribleone1982 wrote:
wilkomtb wrote:
I am finding the same, I have 175's on currently but am thinking about dropping them to 170. Technincal climbs I seem to get a few strikes and help me get looser. Smile

I'm thinking of going to 170mm for the same reason!

How are you getting on with the sizing now? Have you got used to the extra reach?

Yes totally. Feels great on my local trails and at trail centers, etc.. I am starting to feel like i am riding it more agreesively, althought there are certain situations where its either me or the bike that "cant do it" lol - It has been my accident thats slowed my progress down more than anything. Everything else has just been fine turning - like cutting the 805 bars down to 785, slightly longer stem, etc.... and next the crank length.

Posted: May 13, 2021 at 6:45 Quote
Out of interest people with a Rockshox Coil how much rebound and compression do you have set?

Posted: May 13, 2021 at 23:53 Quote
wilkomtb wrote:
Out of interest people with a Rockshox Coil how much rebound and compression do you have set?

On rocky stuff, 10 clicks of rebound from fully-open, 1 click of compression.
On flowy trails. I add 2 clicks both to the rebound and compression.

Posted: May 14, 2021 at 8:43 Quote
wilkomtb wrote:
Out of interest people with a Rockshox Coil how much rebound and compression do you have set?

Just to give the whole picture, I've got:

450lb+ MRP Enduro SL Progressive Spring (checked at c.425lb-500lb), 1 full turn of preload, for my kitted up weight at 77kg.
1 x JTech Spring bearing, on the preload end.
6 clicks of Rebound (from fully open, i.e. the least damped).
5 clicks of Compression (from fully open, i.e. the least damped).

It actually sometimes feels a bit soft for me on the faster/rougher trails in the Tweed Valley, and I do bottom it out on every ride, but you never feel it bottom and it sinks into the travel really nicely on the steep stuff and lets me get over the front without feeling like its going to nose-dive. Despite all the chat about how progressive and harsh the bike is its actually a fair bit more supple (with more grip) that the MY19 Trek Slash I had before, and seems to bottom out on similar things; granted that is with a coil vs the X2 air I had on the Slash...

Posted: May 15, 2021 at 12:03 Quote
onefrogaday wrote:
I'm 178cm tall (5'10) with a 82cm inseam (32") and can't decide between a medium or large Tyee 27.5. Any advice on sizing?

My current Specialized Enduro M has a 431 reach paired with a 50mm stem. Steaded position is OK but I had like it to be 2cm longer when descending. Thus a medium seems good but should a go for a larger reach to compensate for the 2° slacker head angle?
I’m 180cm and have a L Tyee CF 29”, would not consider a M as this feels just right. I also came from an Enduro (2018 29”).

Posted: May 18, 2021 at 0:32 Quote
lews-therin wrote:
wilkomtb wrote:
Out of interest people with a Rockshox Coil how much rebound and compression do you have set?

Just to give the whole picture, I've got:

450lb+ MRP Enduro SL Progressive Spring (checked at c.425lb-500lb), 1 full turn of preload, for my kitted up weight at 77kg.
1 x JTech Spring bearing, on the preload end.
6 clicks of Rebound (from fully open, i.e. the least damped).
5 clicks of Compression (from fully open, i.e. the least damped).

It actually sometimes feels a bit soft for me on the faster/rougher trails in the Tweed Valley, and I do bottom it out on every ride, but you never feel it bottom and it sinks into the travel really nicely on the steep stuff and lets me get over the front without feeling like its going to nose-dive. Despite all the chat about how progressive and harsh the bike is its actually a fair bit more supple (with more grip) that the MY19 Trek Slash I had before, and seems to bottom out on similar things; granted that is with a coil vs the X2 air I had on the Slash...

My turn now I've found some settings I'm happy with, they seem to tally up with those above as I'm usually somewhere around 70kg depending on beer consumption;

400lb Rockshox Spring, somewhere between 1 and 2 turns of preload. I tried a 450lb spring for a few rides and although it felt great on bigger features and helped bring my weight forward a little, it was just a tad too firm for 'normal' riding.

8 clicks of Rebound (from fully open, which is 8 clicks from closed).
2 clicks of Compression (from fully open, which is 9 clicks from closed).

The main issue I had finding the right settings is how incredibly stiff the RS shock mount bushes are when new. I actually had to push the pins out and wet sand the bushes a tiny amount (basically prematurely wearing them) to get the shock to move by hand when one end is mounted in the frame. Before doing this I could fully open the rebound, drop off a kerb and the shock wouldn't even oscillate...so I had no idea where to even start as a base setting for the rebound, plus it felt sh*t riding! lol I don't mind if the bushes wear faster now, so I can replace them with some that fit properly.

I'm intrigued by the J-Tech spring bearing, may have to try one! tup

Posted: May 18, 2021 at 1:25 Quote
terribleone1982 wrote:

My turn now I've found some settings I'm happy with, they seem to tally up with those above as I'm usually somewhere around 70kg depending on beer consumption;

400lb Rockshox Spring, somewhere between 1 and 2 turns of preload. I tried a 450lb spring for a few rides and although it felt great on bigger features and helped bring my weight forward a little, it was just a tad too firm for 'normal' riding.

8 clicks of Rebound (from fully open, which is 8 clicks from closed).
2 clicks of Compression (from fully open, which is 9 clicks from closed).

The main issue I had finding the right settings is how incredibly stiff the RS shock mount bushes are when new. I actually had to push the pins out and wet sand the bushes a tiny amount (basically prematurely wearing them) to get the shock to move by hand when one end is mounted in the frame. Before doing this I could fully open the rebound, drop off a kerb and the shock wouldn't even oscillate...so I had no idea where to even start as a base setting for the rebound, plus it felt sh*t riding! lol I don't mind if the bushes wear faster now, so I can replace them with some that fit properly.

I'm intrigued by the J-Tech spring bearing, may have to try one! tup

I'd definitely second this in terms of the bushings! I ended up buying a new set of regular bushings from 'off-set' bushings (along with an actual offset pair for future experiments...) and those along with the spring bearing made the rear end go from feeling a bit harsh off the top to almost too soft in some places.


 
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