Tyee 2020

Author Message
flag transportguy
Posted: May 11, 2022 at 1:26 Quote
wilkomtb wrote:
transportguy wrote:
I don't have anything helpful to say, so just a rant from me.

I love my Tyee, it likes like a dream and I don't think I'd ever need anything better, but damn, any sign of dirt makes it creak like an old door.

Do you know where those creaks are coming from? CF or AL? I am trying to pin point a creak on my CF, which only happens when i am going quickly over rocks or root (so always) lol I thought it was a pivot, now i am thinking headset. I just don't know.

AL Tyee. The headset was creaking right from the box. Not a great start. Then there was the general area of rear shock. I changed bushings to Huber and cleaned as much as I could. The noises stopped, but I can't pinpoint what exactly worked. Rear axle unscrewing just slightly gave me the biggest headache though - it sounded exactly like the BB's or cranks' fault and I couldn't figure that out. I've gone through 2 chains and they begin to creak when their end is getting near.

Headset is making noises again, but I reckon some greasing will do.
flag wilkomtb
O+
Posted: May 11, 2022 at 1:39 Quote
transportguy wrote:
wilkomtb wrote:
transportguy wrote:
I don't have anything helpful to say, so just a rant from me.

I love my Tyee, it likes like a dream and I don't think I'd ever need anything better, but damn, any sign of dirt makes it creak like an old door.

Do you know where those creaks are coming from? CF or AL? I am trying to pin point a creak on my CF, which only happens when i am going quickly over rocks or root (so always) lol I thought it was a pivot, now i am thinking headset. I just don't know.

AL Tyee. The headset was creaking right from the box. Not a great start. Then there was the general area of rear shock. I changed bushings to Huber and cleaned as much as I could. The noises stopped, but I can't pinpoint what exactly worked. Rear axle unscrewing just slightly gave me the biggest headache though - it sounded exactly like the BB's or cranks' fault and I couldn't figure that out. I've gone through 2 chains and they begin to creak when their end is getting near.

Headset is making noises again, but I reckon some greasing will do.

Cheers - Yeah i am just replacing the headset in mine, as that is where i thought the noise was coming from. Smile
flag Grumposaur
Posted: May 11, 2022 at 4:31 Quote
wilkomtb wrote:
transportguy wrote:
wilkomtb wrote:


Do you know where those creaks are coming from? CF or AL? I am trying to pin point a creak on my CF, which only happens when i am going quickly over rocks or root (so always) lol I thought it was a pivot, now i am thinking headset. I just don't know.

AL Tyee. The headset was creaking right from the box. Not a great start. Then there was the general area of rear shock. I changed bushings to Huber and cleaned as much as I could. The noises stopped, but I can't pinpoint what exactly worked. Rear axle unscrewing just slightly gave me the biggest headache though - it sounded exactly like the BB's or cranks' fault and I couldn't figure that out. I've gone through 2 chains and they begin to creak when their end is getting near.

Headset is making noises again, but I reckon some greasing will do.


Cheers - Yeah i am just replacing the headset in mine, as that is where i thought the noise was coming from. Smile
Could also be your CSU. It seems that mine creaks every now and then.
flag Uchwmdr
Posted: May 11, 2022 at 5:51 Quote
Grumposaur wrote:
wilkomtb wrote:
transportguy wrote:


AL Tyee. The headset was creaking right from the box. Not a great start. Then there was the general area of rear shock. I changed bushings to Huber and cleaned as much as I could. The noises stopped, but I can't pinpoint what exactly worked. Rear axle unscrewing just slightly gave me the biggest headache though - it sounded exactly like the BB's or cranks' fault and I couldn't figure that out. I've gone through 2 chains and they begin to creak when their end is getting near.

Headset is making noises again, but I reckon some greasing will do.


Cheers - Yeah i am just replacing the headset in mine, as that is where i thought the noise was coming from. Smile
Could also be your CSU. It seems that mine creaks every now and then.

What fork??
flag wilkomtb
O+
Posted: May 11, 2022 at 5:59 Quote
Uchwmdr wrote:
Grumposaur wrote:
wilkomtb wrote:



Cheers - Yeah i am just replacing the headset in mine, as that is where i thought the noise was coming from. Smile
Could also be your CSU. It seems that mine creaks every now and then.

What fork??

Could be... my fork is a Lyrik Ultimate.
flag Grumposaur
Posted: May 11, 2022 at 6:36 Quote
Fork brand doesnt matter. We have 2 Tyee's one with a Lyrik and one with a F36. The Lyrik got a new CSU in the first year. The F36 is now maybe developing a creak after 2 years.

Also the previous forks on other bikes started to creak, some just a but sooner then others.

The only fork that didn't creak after 5 years is a Double crown one. (And my Pike DJ is still quiet but also not that old yet, and the lower travel helps a lot with limiting the loads)
flag wilkomtb
O+
Posted: May 11, 2022 at 8:32 Quote
The headset has now been replaced, so i am hoping it is that. However yes there are a number of other things if it is the CSU then it'll have to wait until it needs replacing. It was serviced not so long ago, it almost feels like it start creaking since hte service. How knows....
flag Uchwmdr
Posted: May 15, 2022 at 0:27 Quote
will the bike fit a 2.6 rear tire?
flag CowardlyBear
O+
Posted: May 15, 2022 at 3:13 Quote
Uchwmdr wrote:
to anyone having the alloy Tyee and Magura MT7, with 203 mm rotors, do you happen to use no shim on one of the bolts? I found out today that the front bolt on my bike is too short and can't tighten properly. removing the shim solved the issue.

I assume you're referring to the bolts that hold the brake caliper to the fork? The two bolts are not the same length; the longest one should go on the top. Then it works fine (at least on my bike...).

Oh wait, I just realised you meant 'front bolt of the rear brake'. But that's probably the same: check the lengths of the bolts and that you have them at right positions.
flag dirtrider121
Posted: May 18, 2022 at 12:10 Quote
Hi guys, I'm thinking of replacing my meta tr frame with a tyee, live in Bristol, UK, so mainly ride steep stuff in South Wales, forest of Dean etc. Any thoughts on how it rides for this type of terrain?

Also, the routing for the cables under the BB is worrying me, I think I'd pull them out straight away, looks like a poor design. Anyone had issues with them, or found a fix to reroute them?
flag Uchwmdr
Posted: May 18, 2022 at 22:35 Quote
dirtrider121 wrote:
Hi guys, I'm thinking of replacing my meta tr frame with a tyee, live in Bristol, UK, so mainly ride steep stuff in South Wales, forest of Dean etc. Any thoughts on how it rides for this type of terrain?

Also, the routing for the cables under the BB is worrying me, I think I'd pull them out straight away, looks like a poor design. Anyone had issues with them, or found a fix to reroute them?
tyee is much better on any terain. It is generaly a more versatile and higher quality frame.
flag Grumposaur
Posted: May 18, 2022 at 23:56 Quote
dirtrider121 wrote:
Hi guys, I'm thinking of replacing my meta tr frame with a tyee, live in Bristol, UK, so mainly ride steep stuff in South Wales, forest of Dean etc. Any thoughts on how it rides for this type of terrain?

Also, the routing for the cables under the BB is worrying me, I think I'd pull them out straight away, looks like a poor design. Anyone had issues with them, or found a fix to reroute them?

I have never been there. But I ride mainly in the Austrian and Italian Alps, no problems, rode various EWS trails with it, black tech trails. Biggest stand-out feature is that it climbs very well, feels like saving energy on climbs and transitions on longer days.

Here are 20 pages about 'fixes" https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/probleme-mit-der-kabelfuehrung-am-tyee-2020.922269/
To be honest some of them are over the top, with the 3d printed thing you still see that if you don't adjust the basics, like slack of the cables it still doesn't matter to much.

I also had cables there on a Capra and Strive. Most important is: bottom out your bike, pull all the slack out at bottom out. Use the provided spacer and secure it with a ziptie or duck tape. I only secure it on der-cable and only one layer tape on brake cable, so if you hit something it will brake away.

You have to make sure that the cable pigtails the right way: outwards of the knobs. I have two tipties to keep the cable closer to the chainstays for longer.
Innertube strip and 4 tie rips to silence chainstay protector. Most forward tierip to keep cable from side knobs.
The forward ziptie is for the cable. The others are to keep the innertube strip in place and fixating the chainstay protector and keep it from boomboxing.

Bottom out on AL L 29. 620 Podium fits 710 podium doesn t


For the EU there is now an option in configurator to choose certain specs and get it in 10 days. I don't think they can do that with UK import right now, but anyway that would be quickest available spec options.
flag wilkomtb
O+
Posted: May 19, 2022 at 2:02 Quote
dirtrider121 wrote:
Hi guys, I'm thinking of replacing my meta tr frame with a tyee, live in Bristol, UK, so mainly ride steep stuff in South Wales, Forest of Dean etc. Any thoughts on how it rides for this type of terrain?

Also, the routing for the cables under the BB is worrying me, I think I'd pull them out straight away, looks like a poor design. Anyone had issues with them, or found a fix to reroute them?

Hey, I also live in South Wales and ride FoD and my local stuff and own a Tyee CF. No issues with cable routing from me. Sometimes like the other week when i swapped out my rear and repalced the outers, etc you get a bit of rub whilst the cable outters bed in and find their place. Occasionally you may get a twig or something caght in the cable tidy "thing", but i put a bash guard on and that seems to ward off any sticks and stones from getting jammed.

Perfect bike for the area IMO. Smile
flag dirtnapped
O+
Posted: May 19, 2022 at 7:39 Quote
On different bikes I've sheared multiple brake and shifter lines, so routing under the bb is a deal breaker for me personally. I ended up running the lines through a length of an old camelback hose, which worked well.
flag dirtrider121
Posted: May 19, 2022 at 8:00 Quote
Thanks all, appreciate everyone's replies. It may be a deal breaker for me, might wait and see if they revise it at all, don't want to go messing around trying to fix a brand new frame

 


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