Noob requires help building a budgety midrange 26/27.5

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Noob requires help building a budgety midrange 26/27.5
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Posted: Jan 25, 2020 at 13:26 Quote
Hi guys i'm new here! Not sure where to put this thread exactly...

After many years of not riding, i've decided that I want to get into it properly. I'm not going to be doing anything mad, perhaps the odd trail and cross country riding. We'll see how it develops. For now i'd like to start off with a half decent bike and improve on my non-existant skills.
This will be my first 'proper' bike, however i'll be making smart decisions when it comes to budget. I'd like to build a good bike, but i'm not spending money on things that don't require it. I have a few parts that i've acquired over the years and i'd like to use them, but I also need some guidance with the build.

New parts I have bought:
- A Shimano Zee 1x10 groupset
1x Shimano Zee BR-M640 Brakes
2x Shimano Zee SM-RT66M 180mm rotors
1x Shimano Zee FC-M640 170mm crank
1x Shimano XT CS-M771 11-36 Cassette & CN-HG95 Chain
1x Shimano Zee RD-M640 11t-36t Freeride Derailleur
1x Shimano Saint SL-M820 I-spec shifter

- Black by Absoluteblack narrowide 32t oval chainring
- A Brand-X HT01 27.5" frame https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-ht-01-27-5-hardtail-frame-2019/rp-prod130452
- A Brand-X sealed headset
- Nukeproof Horizon Comp pedals https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-horizon-comp-flat-pedals/rp-prod135212
- 26" Continental semi slick tyres

Used parts I already have:
- A pair of 26" wheels with 9mm QR
- Handlebars, stem, seat and seatpost
- 2009 Rockshox Reba SL 26" fork

I will be changing the used components eventually as they're not the best. The fork is decent so that can stay.
What i'd like to do is build the lightest bike I can within reason, so i'll be going for chinese carbon seatpost and handlebars. It's also the reason why I went with the Nukeproof plastic pedals.
I'm not too sure about wheels yet, but i'll probably buy something second hand, maybe with Hope Pro 2 hubs? Undecided.

So there's my spec. Is there anything that i'm missing, or worth changing?

I was also thinking of buying some specific tools to put the bike together. I have a very well equipped workshop, but it seems that the bottom bracket, chain and gears require some special tools. I don't think i'll be stripping the bike too often, so it seems a bit pointless buying it if it's only going to get used once. I was thinking maybe just take it down to my local bike shop and have them install those bits?

Is there any other advice that people can offer? E.g. how do you think these components will interact with each other? Am I doing this right? etc.

Many thanks in advance Smile

Posted: Jan 25, 2020 at 15:17 Quote
Zee is a very downhill oriented groupset, with a fairly narrow range of gears, you'd probably be better off with something like a Deore 1x10 which has a 11-42 range instead of 11-36, so climbing will be much easier.

Also for trail/ cross country riding Zee brakes are way overkill unless you weigh quite a bit. Even 4-piston brakes in general are more than whats needed for that kind of riding and really only see benefits when doing downhill park or enduro riding. If you're dead set on 4-pistons though, I'd recommend the Shimano MT-520 or MT-420 brakes (I actually use the 520). They are much cheaper than Zee and use the same pad shape (although not compatible with the finned pads), and they have slightly less power so they'd be better for trail riding.

I have no opinion on the Chinese carbon frame, although I'd definitely stay away from Chinese carbon bars and spend a bit of money on a carbon bar from a good name, like Renthal or Chromag for example.

I'd also recommend getting 27.5 wheels for it (and subsequently a fork because 27.5 wheels will not fit a 26 fork). While it is true the frame will fit the 26, it will lower your bottom bracket by a bit and you will most likely hit rocks and roots quite often

Posted: Jan 25, 2020 at 16:46 Quote
Let me get this straight, you want me to spend loads of money on new parts which are in fact a downgrade?

The difference in radius between 26" and 27.5" wheels is 0.75". So the bottom bracket will be 0.75" lower with 26" wheels. Are you saying 0.75" (19mm) is the difference between hitting or not hitting objects?

Please re-read my post. You either failed to read it properly, or you just aren't very smart.

Posted: Jan 25, 2020 at 17:37 Quote
Hooblah wrote:
Is there any other advice that people can offer? E.g. how do you think these components will interact with each other?

I offered my advice, doesn't mean you have to take it. It's not my money and I'm not the one going to be riding it, so I couldn't care less what you do with it. If you don't plan on getting properly sized wheels it would be best to find a frame that is designed around the wheels you already have.

Hooblah wrote:
Let me get this straight, you want me to spend loads of money on new parts which are in fact a downgrade?

Like I said earlier, I don't care what you do with your money, and 27.5 wheels on a 27.5 frame is not a downgrade

[Quote="Hooblah]The difference in radius between 26" and 27.5" wheels is 0.75". So the bottom bracket will be 0.75" lower with 26" wheels. Are you saying 0.75" (19mm) is the difference between hitting or not hitting objects?[/Quote

Yes, that 19mm will make quite a difference if you ride on fairly rocky trails, probably won't notice it much on flow trails

Posted: Jan 26, 2020 at 5:32 Quote
Yeah, just stop commenting.

Posted: Jan 26, 2020 at 7:56 Quote
Hooblah wrote:
Hi guys i'm new here! Not sure where to put this thread exactly...

After many years of not riding, i've decided that I want to get into it properly. I'm not going to be doing anything mad, perhaps the odd trail and cross country riding. We'll see how it develops. For now i'd like to start off with a half decent bike and improve on my non-existant skills.
This will be my first 'proper' bike, however i'll be making smart decisions when it comes to budget. I'd like to build a good bike, but i'm not spending money on things that don't require it. I have a few parts that i've acquired over the years and i'd like to use them, but I also need some guidance with the build.

New parts I have bought:
- A Shimano Zee 1x10 groupset
1x Shimano Zee BR-M640 Brakes
2x Shimano Zee SM-RT66M 180mm rotors
1x Shimano Zee FC-M640 170mm crank
1x Shimano XT CS-M771 11-36 Cassette & CN-HG95 Chain
1x Shimano Zee RD-M640 11t-36t Freeride Derailleur
1x Shimano Saint SL-M820 I-spec shifter

- Black by Absoluteblack narrowide 32t oval chainring
- A Brand-X HT01 27.5" frame https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-ht-01-27-5-hardtail-frame-2019/rp-prod130452
- A Brand-X sealed headset
- Nukeproof Horizon Comp pedals https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-horizon-comp-flat-pedals/rp-prod135212
- 26" Continental semi slick tyres

Used parts I already have:
- A pair of 26" wheels with 9mm QR
- Handlebars, stem, seat and seatpost
- 2009 Rockshox Reba SL 26" fork

I will be changing the used components eventually as they're not the best. The fork is decent so that can stay.
What i'd like to do is build the lightest bike I can within reason, so i'll be going for chinese carbon seatpost and handlebars. It's also the reason why I went with the Nukeproof plastic pedals.
I'm not too sure about wheels yet, but i'll probably buy something second hand, maybe with Hope Pro 2 hubs? Undecided.

So there's my spec. Is there anything that i'm missing, or worth changing?

I was also thinking of buying some specific tools to put the bike together. I have a very well equipped workshop, but it seems that the bottom bracket, chain and gears require some special tools. I don't think i'll be stripping the bike too often, so it seems a bit pointless buying it if it's only going to get used once. I was thinking maybe just take it down to my local bike shop and have them install those bits?

Is there any other advice that people can offer? E.g. how do you think these components will interact with each other? Am I doing this right? etc.

Many thanks in advance Smile
Too bad you already bought all the stuff, you would probably come through way cheaper if you just bought aggresive HT (Meta HT, Nukeproof etc...). Also don't be too aggresive on your 80$ frames.... Anyway you are where you are Smile

Just build it and don't go for cheap chinese carbon stuff later, you already have DH oriented brakes, drivetrain and aggresive trail geometry. Drive it and progress with skills, you will switch to FS anyway later, so no sense in throwing too much $$$ to this bike.

If you nailed all the standards you will see as soon as you start building. For Pressfit BB go to nearest shop to press it. Also for other tools you miss - unless you want to build all later bikes too as hobby - going custom vs buying pre-build there can be around 40% price difference in favor of pre-built

Posted: Jan 26, 2020 at 8:11 Quote
Considering costs and what you got there will get you rolling.

As folk opt for 27.5 and 29ers, the abundance of 26 stuff at bugdet freindly
prices couldn't be better. Picked up a pair of 26" wheels built up with
Hope pro 2 EVO hubs with DT 5.1D rims, 3 tyres, 2 being new magic marys
and a moderately used 9spd cassette, £100.

Use the time and get out there and ride, get a feel for it all,
as things progress and if you wanna change or upgrade further at a later
date ( as you have the frame ) forks and wheels would be
the natural evolution, but not essential at any stage.

If you do eventually switch up forks and wheels,
to be easy on costs, I would go for 27.5 fork first, as you can
keep riding on 26" wheels, then depending on availability,
go with just getting a 27.5 front wheel, then change the back wheel
as and when suits, this slow progression will also allow you to feel the
subtle changes in how the ride feels.

As a note, with some brand forks you can just change the fork lowers
from 26" to 27.5" these come up from time to time seperately on likes
of ebay, for as little as £30 depending.

Posted: Jan 26, 2020 at 21:56 Quote
Your build will be fine to get started with. I run the exact same drivetrain on an NS Surge EVO and have been very happy with it. My local trails are pretty flat so the 11-36 is fine, however you can always add an extender cog with a Wolftooth Goat link if you need more range later.
Tool wise you could buy a basic set of house brand stuff from CRC or Jensen for $35-40 that will include the specially drivetrain bits. Plenty of tutorial vids on YouTube to walk you thru it. Some threaded rod w/nuts & washers for headset install, chunk of PVC pipe to seat the crown race, and a tube of park tool grease ($7).

You didn't mention fork travel but with 26" you'll ideally want to run 140mm or it will adversely affect the handling. If your fork is at least 120 it will be fine for now, but keep in mind 20mm lower will steepen the head angle by a full degree making it twitchy at speed..
Hopefully this helps with some decisions. Post up your results!!

Posted: Feb 2, 2020 at 13:15 Quote
Thanks for the help!

I've just looked up what a Meta HT is... and then I saw the price. £1300 Eek
I've put just under £700 into this so far, and there's only a few things left to get - shimano could have included the adaptor I need to mount the brakes ffs. I reckon i'll be in it for less than £1k when I'm done.
I don't know if i'll switch to FS later. I'm not planning on taking it that far. And besides, I have another even more expensive hobby that likes to bleed me dry lol.

The BB is threaded. I'll probably take it down to the bike shop so they can deal with that, the chain, and the gear set in one go.
I have a 20t press in my garage so sorting the headset wont be an issue.

I do however have an issue with installation and setting up the parts. Shimano doesn't include great instructions so I'm not sure if what i'm doing is right. Like what sort of angle should the derailleur be at? Do I need to be threadlocking the chainring bolts? Little things like that.

I also need to decide what sort of handlebar and stem I require. There are different lengths and angles. What difference does it make, and what's optimum?
Then you have seatposts that are straight or with a setback. Again, what difference does it make?

Where did you find wheels with Hope Pro 2 evo hubs for £100? Mates rates?

I've just had my Reba rebuilt, should be getting it back tomorrow. It's been set at max travel which is 130mm.

Posted: Feb 15, 2020 at 6:47 Quote
" Where did you find wheels with Hope Pro 2 evo hubs for £100? "

Ebay uk

Posted: Feb 15, 2020 at 12:25 Quote
Nice. Any help with the other questions would be appreciated.

Posted: Feb 15, 2020 at 16:00 Quote
Hooblah wrote:
Nice. Any help with the other questions would be appreciated.

I don't recommend going with chinese carbon. the nukeproof horizon bars are a bargain and would last longer. Nothing against carbon bars, but chinese carbon bars have iffy quality control and the last thing you'd want is to snap those suckers and break your collar bone (Trust me, i know Smile )

As for the drivetrain, its a bit gravity oriented, I've got zee on my DH setup. (it'll work fine, but you could run a M6000 Deore Rear derailleur or a XT 10spd and itll void the need of the goat link for a wider range cassette. Id personally run a 11-42 10 spd cassette since the 36 is a tad on the smaller side for a 1x setup) As for wheels, the Sunringle MTX are bombproof, same with most Spank Rims. last one i can rec for rims is DT swiss FR model rims, if you can find them in 26er, they are reallly good. Chain Reaction is having a big sale at the moment, see if there are any that draw your attention as well.

Posted: Feb 16, 2020 at 10:43 Quote
Thanks!

I'm looking into second hand wheelsets; I've seen previous auctions on ebay for Mavic rims with Hope Pro 2 hubs go for the £100 mark, so i'm going to wait and see what comes up.

I've been looking into handlebars etc. What sort of width, rise, backsweep and upsweep do I want?
The Nukeproof Horizon bars are 780mm in width, and come in 12mm, 25mm and 38mm rise, with a 9 degree backsweep and 6 degree upsweep. No idea if that's any good for me.

I also need to decide on a stem. Again, confused on what length and rise I require?

And then there are integrated handlebar and stems to throw into the mix. Confused once again.

Seatpost backsweep. What's the deal with that?

And how do I know if I require headset spacers?

Posted: Feb 16, 2020 at 11:16 Quote
Hooblah wrote:
Nice. Any help with the other questions would be appreciated.

There are online video tutorials on how to set up your drive train and install/service prey much everything. Park tools has tones of resources, start there. its not hard find good instructions.

I would recommend buying the tools you need, rather than taking it to a shop.... spend 20$ on a BB tool, and you can service your bike for ever. or you can pay the LBS 20$ and have them install it once. If you are mechanical inclined, owning tools is the most cost effective way to go.

I would never recommend and integrated stem/bar.. as there is no adjust-ability. stem length, reach, sweep ... these are all things that are variable to each rider, their own posture , riding style and terrain.

You will need headset spacers to adjust the stack height of your stem. If you dont need/ want the extra stack height, you can cut your steer tube shorter (that would avoid a need for them) .. but as your fork is used(?) making sure you have enough steer tube length to accommodate the frames head tube length and stack height of your head set/stem is gonna be important.

I also wouldn't get too hung up on weight, particularly while on a budget...as they say " Light, Strong, Cheap ... pick two"

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