Trek Slash 2021 ?

PB Forum :: Trek
Trek Slash 2021 ?
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Posted: Aug 21, 2022 at 21:53 Quote
felix571 wrote:
samesame84 wrote:
8tom8 wrote:
yes

Worth it ?

Going to put on some rsc’s and was thinking 220s as well

I´m running the Magura MT5 with 220mm front and rear and it´s pretty nice. Went to Austria this year with descents around 700-800m altitude loss in one run - no problem with heat with that rotor size. (no fading)
For my normal trails 200mm front and rear would have been enough.

Other than that, 220mm on 29er rims look pretty nice Smile


Felix, i understand you were one of the first with the new gen slash, Reading through the thread you had headset and creaking noises, did you resolved these?

Posted: Aug 22, 2022 at 9:40 Quote
ranchitup wrote:
Anyone else have chainline issues with this bike? I have a 9.8 XT and the chain skips in the lowest few gears because the chainline is so extreme. Doesn't seem like the chainring can really be brought in much either without contacting the frame.

I can confirm I have had issues with chainline on my large slash, I put some 165mm saint cranks on which seemed to fit fine and then when out pedaling the gears were skipping in the easier climbing gears. it almost looked as though the chainline was pulling the chain off the cassette, however its the correct size. swapped it out for a smaller chainring and it helped (32T to a 30T).

I am no bike mechanic but have years of experience working on bikes, after swapping the chain ring to a 30T it improved the skipping of gears in the climbing gears a bit however first proper stand up and pedal the chainring bent and snapped (brand new chain ring). It was a Burgtec chainring, they were shocked and agreed to replace the broken one immediately. I have returned to use the original stock cranks and had zero issues so far. just seemed odd how they are both same spindle size and length, both Shimano - aftermarket cranks are: 165mm saint, and the stock: 170mm SLX.

Anyone managed to get 165mm cranks to run on the slash frames?

Posted: Aug 22, 2022 at 10:47 Quote
dandunne13 wrote:
ranchitup wrote:
Anyone else have chainline issues with this bike? I have a 9.8 XT and the chain skips in the lowest few gears because the chainline is so extreme. Doesn't seem like the chainring can really be brought in much either without contacting the frame.

I can confirm I have had issues with chainline on my large slash, I put some 165mm saint cranks on which seemed to fit fine and then when out pedaling the gears were skipping in the easier climbing gears. it almost looked as though the chainline was pulling the chain off the cassette, however its the correct size. swapped it out for a smaller chainring and it helped (32T to a 30T).

I am no bike mechanic but have years of experience working on bikes, after swapping the chain ring to a 30T it improved the skipping of gears in the climbing gears a bit however first proper stand up and pedal the chainring bent and snapped (brand new chain ring). It was a Burgtec chainring, they were shocked and agreed to replace the broken one immediately. I have returned to use the original stock cranks and had zero issues so far. just seemed odd how they are both same spindle size and length, both Shimano - aftermarket cranks are: 165mm saint, and the stock: 170mm SLX.

Anyone managed to get 165mm cranks to run on the slash frames?

Was the new chainring boost as well?

Posted: Aug 23, 2022 at 0:37 Quote
dandunne13 wrote:
ranchitup wrote:
Anyone else have chainline issues with this bike? I have a 9.8 XT and the chain skips in the lowest few gears because the chainline is so extreme. Doesn't seem like the chainring can really be brought in much either without contacting the frame.

I can confirm I have had issues with chainline on my large slash, I put some 165mm saint cranks on which seemed to fit fine and then when out pedaling the gears were skipping in the easier climbing gears. it almost looked as though the chainline was pulling the chain off the cassette, however its the correct size. swapped it out for a smaller chainring and it helped (32T to a 30T).

I am no bike mechanic but have years of experience working on bikes, after swapping the chain ring to a 30T it improved the skipping of gears in the climbing gears a bit however first proper stand up and pedal the chainring bent and snapped (brand new chain ring). It was a Burgtec chainring, they were shocked and agreed to replace the broken one immediately. I have returned to use the original stock cranks and had zero issues so far. just seemed odd how they are both same spindle size and length, both Shimano - aftermarket cranks are: 165mm saint, and the stock: 170mm SLX.

Anyone managed to get 165mm cranks to run on the slash frames?

The saint cranks would not be 55mm chainline? did you use a zero offset chainring to counter this?

O+
Posted: Aug 23, 2022 at 5:46 Quote
Size up or down on a Slash?

Current trail bike that fits well is an XL Fuel EX.

It is in the middle between the L and XL Slash

Size charts say I can fit either L or XL.

Size charts say the same for the Fuel and I had a L for a year before an XL. The XL Fuel feels way more better to me.

Will it be the same experience on a Slash?

O+
Posted: Aug 23, 2022 at 6:08 Quote
rmbarrows wrote:
Size up or down on a Slash?

Current trail bike that fits well is an XL Fuel EX.

It is in the middle between the L and XL Slash

Size charts say I can fit either L or XL.

Size charts say the same for the Fuel and I had a L for a year before an XL. The XL Fuel feels way more better to me.

Will it be the same experience on a Slash?

Do you like feeling a bit more stretched out for stability or slightly more cramped for nimble handling? Kinda depends where and what you’re riding

Posted: Aug 23, 2022 at 7:48 Quote
rmbarrows wrote:
Size up or down on a Slash?

Current trail bike that fits well is an XL Fuel EX.

It is in the middle between the L and XL Slash

Size charts say I can fit either L or XL.

Size charts say the same for the Fuel and I had a L for a year before an XL. The XL Fuel feels way more better to me.

Will it be the same experience on a Slash?
Im 6.2 . Ive always ridden smaller bikes.
Had a large trek slash, also have an xl nukeproof scout. Had a propain spindrift XL and i was massive . It was then stolen .
Ive now got a Large slash and i 100% love it . I dont go by sizes, i go by reach and wheelbase for feel.
Id alwasy say try hire a few , but the XL is a big unit . Nothing worse than a bike that like a barge. I aas getting used to my propain, but i jumped straight on the slash and it felt like home

O+
Posted: Aug 23, 2022 at 8:25 Quote
Looking at geo charts again.

Fuel EX in XL has a 495 reach in low.

Slash in XL has 516 in low.

Slash in L has 486 in low , but a 491 in High.

Kind of thinking about getting the L, running it in high and a 170 fork. Maybe a 45mm stem instead of the 35

Posted: Aug 23, 2022 at 11:16 Quote
or ride it in the low position and go for higher bar rise and less spacers under the stem to lengthen the reach

Posted: Aug 23, 2022 at 12:26 Quote
im 6ft and for whatever reason i felt like it was a "big bike" - Probably good for bike park but otherwise i sold it as just felt big to me.

Posted: Aug 24, 2022 at 6:59 Quote
HeatedRotor wrote:
felix571 wrote:
samesame84 wrote:


Worth it ?

Going to put on some rsc’s and was thinking 220s as well

I´m running the Magura MT5 with 220mm front and rear and it´s pretty nice. Went to Austria this year with descents around 700-800m altitude loss in one run - no problem with heat with that rotor size. (no fading)
For my normal trails 200mm front and rear would have been enough.

Other than that, 220mm on 29er rims look pretty nice Smile


Felix, i understand you were one of the first with the new gen slash, Reading through the thread you had headset and creaking noises, did you resolved these?

I still have the headset gap (which I never would have noticed without reading it here). This gap is not really a problem - you can shred this thing the same way you would do without the headset gap.
The creaking noises are gone.. everytime they come back I disassemble the affected part, clean it and grease it again.
I created a small overview for me with all the "special bolts" and directions of rotation including the newton meters - just to be sure and not to break anything again. Geek

The only problem I still have are the clicking cranks while pedaling hard. This is the second set of cranks (same set as stock) and the clicking returned a few rides later. BB was changes as well and is not the problem. Pedals were changed, too.

The combination of Bontrager stem and handlebars creaked as well every 10 rides after cleaning because there is dirt between the components. Tried it with carbon paste as well - no improvement. Switched to a "Title" stem and the creaking is gone. Besides that I can highly recommend the stem itself.

Posted: Aug 27, 2022 at 21:28 Quote
felix571 wrote:
HeatedRotor wrote:
felix571 wrote:


I´m running the Magura MT5 with 220mm front and rear and it´s pretty nice. Went to Austria this year with descents around 700-800m altitude loss in one run - no problem with heat with that rotor size. (no fading)
For my normal trails 200mm front and rear would have been enough.

Other than that, 220mm on 29er rims look pretty nice Smile


Felix, i understand you were one of the first with the new gen slash, Reading through the thread you had headset and creaking noises, did you resolved these?

I still have the headset gap (which I never would have noticed without reading it here). This gap is not really a problem - you can shred this thing the same way you would do without the headset gap.
The creaking noises are gone.. everytime they come back I disassemble the affected part, clean it and grease it again.
I created a small overview for me with all the "special bolts" and directions of rotation including the newton meters - just to be sure and not to break anything again. Geek

The only problem I still have are the clicking cranks while pedaling hard. This is the second set of cranks (same set as stock) and the clicking returned a few rides later. BB was changes as well and is not the problem. Pedals were changed, too.

The combination of Bontrager stem and handlebars creaked as well every 10 rides after cleaning because there is dirt between the components. Tried it with carbon paste as well - no improvement. Switched to a "Title" stem and the creaking is gone. Besides that I can highly recommend the stem itself.
the stupid plastic preload adjuster on my gx cranks slip sometimes and causes clicking for me. Did you check that out?

Posted: Aug 28, 2022 at 22:35 Quote
taskmgr wrote:
felix571 wrote:
HeatedRotor wrote:


Felix, i understand you were one of the first with the new gen slash, Reading through the thread you had headset and creaking noises, did you resolved these?

I still have the headset gap (which I never would have noticed without reading it here). This gap is not really a problem - you can shred this thing the same way you would do without the headset gap.
The creaking noises are gone.. everytime they come back I disassemble the affected part, clean it and grease it again.
I created a small overview for me with all the "special bolts" and directions of rotation including the newton meters - just to be sure and not to break anything again. Geek

The only problem I still have are the clicking cranks while pedaling hard. This is the second set of cranks (same set as stock) and the clicking returned a few rides later. BB was changes as well and is not the problem. Pedals were changed, too.

The combination of Bontrager stem and handlebars creaked as well every 10 rides after cleaning because there is dirt between the components. Tried it with carbon paste as well - no improvement. Switched to a "Title" stem and the creaking is gone. Besides that I can highly recommend the stem itself.
the stupid plastic preload adjuster on my gx cranks slip sometimes and causes clicking for me. Did you check that out?

What did you do to stop the clicking? Because I only got the clicking while pedaling on one side, the preload adjuster could be the problem...

Posted: Aug 29, 2022 at 7:01 Quote
felix571 wrote:
taskmgr wrote:
felix571 wrote:


I still have the headset gap (which I never would have noticed without reading it here). This gap is not really a problem - you can shred this thing the same way you would do without the headset gap.
The creaking noises are gone.. everytime they come back I disassemble the affected part, clean it and grease it again.
I created a small overview for me with all the "special bolts" and directions of rotation including the newton meters - just to be sure and not to break anything again. Geek

The only problem I still have are the clicking cranks while pedaling hard. This is the second set of cranks (same set as stock) and the clicking returned a few rides later. BB was changes as well and is not the problem. Pedals were changed, too.

The combination of Bontrager stem and handlebars creaked as well every 10 rides after cleaning because there is dirt between the components. Tried it with carbon paste as well - no improvement. Switched to a "Title" stem and the creaking is gone. Besides that I can highly recommend the stem itself.
the stupid plastic preload adjuster on my gx cranks slip sometimes and causes clicking for me. Did you check that out?

What did you do to stop the clicking? Because I only got the clicking while pedaling on one side, the preload adjuster could be the problem...
i have to reset the preload once in a while. Bearings ok in your bb?

Posted: Aug 29, 2022 at 22:00 Quote
taskmgr wrote:
felix571 wrote:
taskmgr wrote:
the stupid plastic preload adjuster on my gx cranks slip sometimes and causes clicking for me. Did you check that out?

What did you do to stop the clicking? Because I only got the clicking while pedaling on one side, the preload adjuster could be the problem...
i have to reset the preload once in a while. Bearings ok in your bb?

Yes, the bearings are good. I changed the BB to be sure it is not the cause.


 
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