Banshee Spitfire Mullet

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Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 6:33 Quote
Posting this in case it helps someone else. I spent hours googling and didn’t find a lot of info on converting 27.5” bikes to a mullet (but there is plenty about converting 29ers to a mullet - 27.5” rear). I was especially after geometry changes.

I’ve got a 2018 Banshee Spitfire V2. Comes stock with 27.5” wheels. 140mm rear travel, 160mm front. Perfect for a mullet experiment.

I removed the 160mm 27.5” Pike and installed a 140mm 29” Lyrik. The axle to crown is the same (552mm) on these forks. Changed from a front 27.5” DT Swiss M1700 30mm wheel with 30mm ID with 2.5” DHF, to a Roval Traverse 29” 29mm ID with 2.6” Nobby Nic.

The geometry stayed very similar. BB increased 2.5mm and bars increased 11mm (but I can reduce that by removing a spacer if I want).

Haven’t actually ridden it yet. Thought I’d post this here to help anyone thinking of the same thing. This will give you real world measurements, rather than theory. Admittedly, all my measurements were taken with a tape measure, and not super accurate. But it did measure everything 3 times to check, and got measurements within 1mm each time, so I’m confident the numbers are good.

Reducing the fork by 20mm was the key to keep static geo the same. This bike works great for this due to the stock mis-matched travel. It’s now 140 front/rear.

One thing to check, especially if you have an older bike with a fairly flat top tube, is that the brake levers won’t smash into the top tube if you put the stem right above the headset (with no spacers) and turn the bars 90 degrees. Due to the increased height of the fork, you might need to slam the stem. This won’t work on all bikes. Fortunately the newer V2 spitfires are ok because the top tube slopes down a lot. But it won’t work on my older (2014) V2 Rune. A slammed stem makes the brake levers hit the older Rune,s top tube in a crash.


 
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