DPX2 dead spot in travel

PB Forum :: Fox Racing Shox
DPX2 dead spot in travel
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Posted: May 14, 2020 at 6:21 Quote
I have a 2019 DPX2 shock that about 1/4 of the way down in the travel has a spot where it breaks free and then catches again. It’s like it has a dead spot in it. It’s not as noticeable when compression is all the way firm, but when open it’s very noticeable. I have aired down and aired back up thinking it could be negative air in a chamber, but that did nothing. Anyone ever have this issue?

O+
Posted: May 16, 2020 at 22:57 Quote
Kchaney wrote:
I have a 2019 DPX2 shock that about 1/4 of the way down in the travel has a spot where it breaks free and then catches again. It’s like it has a dead spot in it. It’s not as noticeable when compression is all the way firm, but when open it’s very noticeable. I have aired down and aired back up thinking it could be negative air in a chamber, but that did nothing. Anyone ever have this issue?

Sounds like you need a rebuild. There's air in the shock.

Posted: Dec 6, 2020 at 16:46 Quote
Kchaney wrote:
I have a 2019 DPX2 shock that about 1/4 of the way down in the travel has a spot where it breaks free and then catches again. It’s like it has a dead spot in it. It’s not as noticeable when compression is all the way firm, but when open it’s very noticeable. I have aired down and aired back up thinking it could be negative air in a chamber, but that did nothing. Anyone ever have this issue?

Did you figure this out? Feeling the same thing with a DPX2 also.

O+ FL
Posted: Jan 19, 2021 at 15:45 Quote
Hey, I just noticed this on my brand new DPX2 as well. It's like a "catch". It is at the initial travel before my sag point. I do not notice it while riding.

Posted: Jan 19, 2021 at 18:06 Quote
Several shock brands do this on purpose. Lots of bike brands also play with the spring rate up to the sag point, making you "sit" into the travel to get to the sag point more easily.
Sometimes, these things don't work together as well as we'd like them to. Often, assuming everything is in good mechanical condition, the easiest way to fix this problem would be to play with the shape of the spring curve with spacers, but most shocks don't offer positive/negative band tuning. Like one of the posters already said, making sure the chambers are equalized by using a proper filling process (30 ish psi at a time, compressing the shock to equalize the chambers every time) - or, more in depth, pulling apart the air can to check for clogged transfer ports - is a good first step...and often the last step you can do on your own.

Check out some forums for your specific bike as well, to see if the leverage rate does anything funky at/around the sag point. When it's time for a rebuild, you could send the shock off to avalanche (or whoever is a local/reputable tuner) and they'd be able to mitigate those issues for you.

If it really bothers you (which it shouldn't, since it adds a little more supple stroke off the top) and you can't fix it on the stock shock/don't want to put $$$ into a dpx2, DVO's topaz is probably the easiest shock on the market to change the shape of the spring curve with, as well as offering custom tuning at a low price. Older monarchs have this capability too, but given that a custom tuned topaz is like 600 bucks and the resale value of that dpx2 is pretty high, it seems like a no-brainer. And, to prove I'm not a DVO fanboy, I've blown 2 topaz shocks, they don't work for shit in super cold weather compared to fox/RS, and the bladder needs near constant attention to make sure the pressure is correct.

Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 2:12 Quote
Most likely it's the air transfer port between the pos/neg chambers. It's very tiny and usually shouldn't be noticeable but on shocks, the rear leverage amplifies it 3x so if the port is just a bit too large it can show.

Posted: Mar 1, 2021 at 13:36 Quote
Sounds like it could be one or both of a couple things... 1) Air in your damper oil 2) One or more broken valve shims. Either way, it's probably time to take it to your LBS or mail it to whoever you like to mail these things to and get a rebuild/inspection/repair. This is not the way they are supposed to act. I've rebuilt a couple in the last month and found broken valve shims in one. It happens, apparently.

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