New cascade components link for SB150

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New cascade components link for SB150
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Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 11:46 Quote
Totally random one for this thread but could anyone tell me the chain line on the SB150 for a 12 speed XT crankset? Thanks. Also I have a cascade link and find it feels better on the sharp bumps for sure

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 12:32 Quote
jjpow55 wrote:
Totally random one for this thread but could anyone tell me the chain line on the SB150 for a 12 speed XT crankset? Thanks. Also I have a cascade link and find it feels better on the sharp bumps for sure

You can use any Shimano crankset aside from the super boost variants... The 52mm one is the standard for Boost chain lines, they say the 55mm is boost too which it is, some call it the better boost but this is not true, boost is designed to work best around a 52mm chainline, the 55mm one is for better clearance on certain frames. I know all this after a huge headache trying to find info online to see if the narrowest q factor m9100 xtr cranks fit the sb165 frame without contacting the chainstays as most people running xtr use m9120 not the m9100, however I can say that running the narrowest Shimano q factor cranks available, the xtr m9100 that there is plenty clearnace for the arms and the 52mm chainline is the typical boost chainline. The clearance on the sb150 is the same so I can confirm all the Shimano cranks from the narrowest m9100 series to the m9120, m8100, m8120 all fit your Yeti but the optimised chainline are the ones that state 52mm... Hope that helps

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 12:41 Quote
I had 52 in mind so yeah deffo helps thanks for getting back to me, I’ve had a 11 speed on so far with the mech/cassette and shifter swapped to 12 speed but the crank is looking rough so it’s time to have it looking nice

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 12:49 Quote
jjpow55 wrote:
I had 52 in mind so yeah deffo helps thanks for getting back to me, I’ve had a 11 speed on so far with the mech/cassette and shifter swapped to 12 speed but the crank is looking rough so it’s time to have it looking nice

No problem yea I see a lot of people fitting m8120 and m9120 to their Yetis, maybe because Shimano used to distinguish between xc and traik cranks by the '20' at the end, however this is no longer the case, the cranks are all the same only the chainline and q factors differ, but the xt m8120 crank uses a 55mm chainline and the m8100 uses a 52mm... But 52mm is the closest to ideal chainline out if the two and since I know it fits after using the narrower xtr cranks then I can say if you want XT then get the m8100 cranks. Also consider the 165mm length cranks if you haven't tried, much nicer to spin, and feel better on the knees plus less pedal strikes, guess depends how tall you are though.

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 13:11 Quote
Yeah I was thinking 165 as the cascade has lowered it slightly, I am 5.9 so will prob feel better! Glad I asked thanks for the info

Posted: Sep 15, 2021 at 3:23 Quote
Hi, I would like to share my experience with my sb150 with coil shock and the cascade components link.

I have had my sb150 for almost a year. I really love the bike, but I felt that it was always pretty harsh on fast and rough terrain. I played a lot with air pressure, volume spacers and damping/rebound adjustments on the "X2 performance" shock without being able to find a set-up that I was totally convinced with.

I found a good offer and then decided to swap the X2 for a DHX2 (tuned for a sb165). I immediately noticed the advantages coming from having a coil shock (better small bump, mid stroke support and.. you know the all debate Smile ) However, since the bike has little progressivity (15%) I had to mount a 400lbs spring compared to the recommended 350 of the fox spring calculator (considering a 28% sag). I also tried the 450 since I bottom out the 400 a bit too frequently but it was definitely too harsh. I also noticed more instability while cornering due to a much higher centre of gravity caused by the too low sag. I went back to the 400 and closed a bit the compression to avoid the bottom outs but I still had some drawbacks:
- Still high centre of gravity due to a low sag compared to the recommended one that I could feel in the stability of the bike;
- Harshness coming from the too close compression damping or bottom out when the compression was open;
- Steeper head angle (again for the low sag) that was quite annoying on steep sections.

I then gave a try to the cascade link and I can definitely say that it changes remarkably the bike behaviour and, at least for my riding style and terrains, it is a noticeable improvement (even more than changing from air to coil). I really love the suppleness in the initial part of the travel and now I can glide over rocks with much more confidence and ease but the suspension still maintains good feedback from the trail. The bike is also much more stable in the corners and steep sections thanks to a lower BB and a slacker angle as well as having way more traction. With the same spring rate and same damping settings I felt I lost a bit of mid stroke support compared to the stock link probably because the leverage ratio still remains higher in this range and you can definitely feel it trying to bunny hop where the bike feels less responsive. But you can still make it more "poppy" by acting on the damping circuit. Regarding the claimed drawbacks, I noticed an increased pedal bob but the bike still climbs really well, meanwhile the reduced reach is not really noticeable.
Sooo summing up: I definitely recommend the link Smile Sorry for the long message but I hope it could be helpful in the choice Wink

Posted: Sep 16, 2021 at 8:10 Quote
Thanks for the write up, what coil did you end up using with the cascade link? And what’s your weight?

Posted: Sep 21, 2021 at 2:50 Quote
I am around 68kg with gears and running a 400lbs with the cascade Wink

Posted: Sep 30, 2021 at 22:05 Quote
Thanks! You say you use the shock from a Sb 165, that means you are running the 65mm stroke?

I have the cascade link with a storia and I couldn’t use it with a 62,5 mm stroke because the tire would hit the seat tube. I do use a DHF in the rear… with a dhr it might work for me.

Posted: Oct 5, 2021 at 5:17 Quote
No, I actually removed the shock eyelet and installed a 5mm spacer before mounting it on the bike already with the original link.
I built a shaft clap with a piece of hardwood and with that the all process of removing and mounting the eyelet was quite easy Smile

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