Magura Pad drag!!!!!!!

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Magura Pad drag!!!!!!!
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Posted: Jun 23, 2020 at 7:50 Quote
Right I’m pretty much giving up on magura. I see so many people happy with maguras and I can’t understand it.

Firstly I like the look, feel, price and stopping power of magura brakes but and I cannot stress this enough can not stand the pad drag.

They are impossible to correctly align and get them running silent. I think where they are at now is the best anyone could get them. Pretty silent when riding and can’t really feel them. But it’s still the front and rear.

I have spoken to magura, and tried all their methods as-well as the usual methods.

•Pull the leaver and tighten, done it both pulls hard on and soft.
•Align by eye.
•Had the mounts faced.
•Reset and addressed the piston to ensure the come out evenly.
•Used an alignment tool thingy.
•Tried a new set, (stupidly)
•Tried shimano and magura Rotas.
•Bleed them.
•Ensured they are not overfilled.
•Rode then to see if that helps.

Probably done more than that but they still rub.
There is no way with the pad clearance on these that they won’t Rub. Once you reset the pads you can get them running smooth but as soon as you apply some break they never fully return.....never.

I can’t stand them anymore, so please tell me. How to people who like them run them? Do you just accept the rub?????
Magura get so many good reviews and have so many pros? Am I missing something here? Or am I just expecting too much. I like shimano as they never rub. Even SRAM I can set up ok.

Would love to know what peoples opinions are?

Posted: Jun 23, 2020 at 8:24 Quote
You should be able to set them up to where you do not hear the pads rubbing, but I have been running them for 3 seasons (MT7’s) and have never gotten them to not rub 100%. They don’t squeal or ting when riding and they certainly don’t slow you down but they do ever so slightly rub.

This is partially due to your rotor is never going to be absolutely straight, especially with 180 and 203mm rotors and the pad clearance is absolutely minimum on Maguras. You couldn’t slip a piece of paper between the pads and rotors. This bothered me also for a while, eventually I gave in that it’s how they are, performance wise I couldn’t ask for a better set of brakes, so I have come to terms with the fact they ever so slightly rub.

Posted: Jun 23, 2020 at 8:27 Quote
Yeah that’s pretty much where I’m at, I wouldn’t say they are slowing me down.
It’s just really annoying knowing that they rub, maybe I’m just too precious, drives my OCD crazy ha ha.

Posted: Jun 23, 2020 at 8:31 Quote
stedaly11 wrote:
Yeah that’s pretty much where I’m at, I wouldn’t say they are slowing me down.
It’s just really annoying knowing that they rub, maybe I’m just too precious, drives my OCD crazy ha ha.

I get it, been there for sure. If it helps any I just line them up by eye as best as possible. Squeeze the lever to get the caliper ballpark center but then fine tune it by eye. Since the caliper moves when torquing, it’s nearly impossible to get it perfect.

Posted: Jun 25, 2020 at 20:38 Quote
I spent a good bit of time fussing with them when I first got my mt5s before realizing its really easy to look through the back of the caliper and see which side has a bigger gap. Adjusted them by eye that way and they're as close to perfect as I care for.

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 14:14 Quote
stedaly11 wrote:

Would love to know what peoples opinions are?

Right there with you. I came from Shimano XTs and never had any issues getting them aligned perfectly so they didn't drag and made no noise. I wanted the power of 4-pistons so switched to mt5s about a year and a half ago.

I love the brakes, but I've also battled some drag on my bike (and the bike of a buddy who bought mt5s after trying mine). I read on another post that people have had luck switching to the 2-piece mt7 pads. Next time you change pads (providing you don't sell your brakes) try those out.

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 15:56 Quote
So I've definitely also struggled more with my MT5's to get rid of pad drag but it's definitely possible. One thing I like about them is since they don't have finned pads it's easy to align them through the back of the caliper by eye. The only thing you're fighting is that from fully depressed the pistons don't come out evenly. My "solution", which I have varying degrees of success with has been to give one squeeze of the level to send the pads out a little, then align by eye, then take up the rest of the slack with the pads so that if one comes out farther it will stop and the other can come the rest of the way out.


Taking a closer look it's pretty obvious my pads aren't out evenly! I am adjusted all the way outboard with the caliper to eliminate rubbing and you can even see from the hooks that the outside pistons are farther out. Guess I need to go mess with them...again! I really do like the performance of them though.

The other question I have is if anyone knows what the pros or cons are of the hooked double pads vs the 4 individual pads that come on the mt7? If you get the 4 individual pads do they come with bolts or would you need to get them from magura separately? I really don't understand why they designed two different kind of pads for the same caliper.

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 16:48 Quote
Drag: 4-piston calipers always drag a little; it's impossible to get both pairs moving equally. Beat you can do is keep all pistons lubricated and moving as freely as possible.

Pads: No difference in performance and I don't know why two versions (unified and separate) pads exist. I like the Race compound, which I've found difficult to source in the unified pads, though it's supposedly available.

The hook is to retain the pads from dropping through the MT5 when the wheel is removed; the MT7 uses magnets, which is one of the things that makes the MT7 slightly more expensive to produce. (CORRECTION: The MT5 also uses magnets.) The MT5 does not come with pad retention screws installed, as the hook suffices to keep the pads in place; the MT7 does come with pad retention screws.

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 16:58 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
The hook is to retain the pads from dropping through the MT5 when the wheel is removed; the MT7 uses magnets, which is one of the things that makes the MT7 slightly more expensive to produce.

My new mt5 are magnetic, they snap into place. Not sure if that's always the case or if they had just run out of stock on the regular mt5 as they seem to be constantly back ordered these days.

I assumed the magnetic aspect is to keep them from rattling. The individual pads can't fall through because they are secured by a bolt. So it sounds like there is no advantage to the individual pads over the hooked unified pads.

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 17:06 Quote
Oh, well there you go. I thought that wasn't always the case, but I don't remember springs on the pads, so maybe the magnets have always been there.

Posted: Aug 2, 2020 at 20:09 Quote
I fought with MT Trail 4-piston front for hours. Incredibly frustrating. Carefully tune that rotor by hand to 100% true listening and looking. Back pistons all the way out and eyeball caliper to center on rotor. Always torque thru axles to an exact point every time, especially on the fork!

Posted: Aug 2, 2020 at 23:48 Quote
That's not surprising. As mentioned above, it's nearly impossible to eliminate all drag from 4-piston calipers, especially as they get older and the pistons move less freely. The pistons don't retract perfectly evenly and the "centre" positions of each pair are not aligned.

Posted: Aug 3, 2020 at 0:01 Quote
I realized with mine that one side would always come out easier than the other. What I started doing is with the Pistons fully compressed using a flat head screwdriver the holdback whichever side comes out easier and give one squeeze of the lever. This helps the stuck side get moving and the Pistons will be out evenly on the second pull once mounted

Posted: Aug 3, 2020 at 0:34 Quote
True, that can help. A drop of brake fluid around the piston can help them move more freely. The issue is likely to return, though.

Posted: Aug 3, 2020 at 1:05 Quote
Running both MT5 and MT7 brakes. They can be a pain to align but it is possible.
Things that have worked for me:
The callipers move a lot when you start torquing the mounting bolts, I've found torquing using very very small rotations and frequent swapping between the mount bolts as you go, so literally, a tiny tweak top, tiny tweak bottom, back to top, back to bottom until they are tight keeps the calliper movement to a minimum. It takes longer but works. You'll know if you turned the bolt too much as you see the calliper move.
Using the curved/domed washers that come with Shimano callipers also helps to minimise calliper movement when torquing.
Still not found anything that works for the pistons coming out at different rates, as said above, it's the nature of 4 pots.
On the 4 pad vs 2 pad front, I find you get more progression with the 4 pads as they contact the disc more gradually due to the pistons not coming out even and one pad hitting before the other.

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