Building or buying?

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Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 16:55 Quote
Danzzz88 wrote:
I'm not saying it's cost effective at the budget end, which is exactly what I told the OP. But at the high to ultra high end it is almost certainly cheaper. Most brands add on an extra £2k just mkve up one grade in drivetrain and go ftom performance elite to Kashima... The difference in actual cost between thrm parts it nothing like that amount. Anyway lets keep on topic and try help the OP out.

you are missing the point.

if you are not building the exact same spec, then its not cheaper, its just different.

When asked, should i build or buy, comparing apples to apples, you can never build an identical bike for less than the manufacturer can.

I would also argue, that you could buy the 10k bike new, take off the new high end drive train and fancy suspension, sell that, and buy new lower end stuff ... would put you at the same or lower price than individually sourcing every new part.

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 17:01 Quote
cmcrawfo wrote:
Danzzz88 wrote:
I'm not saying it's cost effective at the budget end, which is exactly what I told the OP. But at the high to ultra high end it is almost certainly cheaper. Most brands add on an extra £2k just mkve up one grade in drivetrain and go ftom performance elite to Kashima... The difference in actual cost between thrm parts it nothing like that amount. Anyway lets keep on topic and try help the OP out.

you are missing the point.

if you are not building the exact same spec, then its not cheaper, its just different.

When asked, should i build or buy, comparing apples to apples, you can never build an identical bike for less than the manufacturer can.

I would also argue, that you could buy the 10k bike new, take off the new high end drive train and fancy suspension, sell that, and buy new lower end stuff ... would put you at the same or lower price than individually sourcing every new part.

So say I buy a bike second hand now, would you recommend a higher spec, carbon hard tail or a lower spec but full suspension aluminium bike. I have been browsing a lot and have found both of these around the place.

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 17:02 Quote
cmcrawfo wrote:
Danzzz88 wrote:
I'm not saying it's cost effective at the budget end, which is exactly what I told the OP. But at the high to ultra high end it is almost certainly cheaper. Most brands add on an extra £2k just mkve up one grade in drivetrain and go ftom performance elite to Kashima... The difference in actual cost between thrm parts it nothing like that amount. Anyway lets keep on topic and try help the OP out.

you are missing the point.

if you are not building the exact same spec, then its not cheaper, its just different.

When asked, should i build or buy, comparing apples to apples, you can never build an identical bike for less than the manufacturer can.

I would also argue, that you could buy the 10k bike new, take off the new high end drive train and fancy suspension, sell that, and buy new lower end stuff ... would put you at the same or lower price than individually sourcing every new part.

That is nonsense, the parts I put on were more expensive than what came on the team editikn bike, if I was to do as you say and build the exact bike it would have cost me even less than I paid.

XX1 Eagle more expensive than XTR 11 speed
Onyx hubs 2 to 3 times the price of XTR/DT hubs
Renthal bar and stem, same price
Hope V4 more expensive than XTR brakes
Lyrik I purchased the previous model year soon as the new on came out.
RF Next SL cranks twice the price as XTR chainset..

So yea I built an even more expensive bike for less money

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 17:05 Quote
benslingsby wrote:
cmcrawfo wrote:
Danzzz88 wrote:
I'm not saying it's cost effective at the budget end, which is exactly what I told the OP. But at the high to ultra high end it is almost certainly cheaper. Most brands add on an extra £2k just mkve up one grade in drivetrain and go ftom performance elite to Kashima... The difference in actual cost between thrm parts it nothing like that amount. Anyway lets keep on topic and try help the OP out.

you are missing the point.

if you are not building the exact same spec, then its not cheaper, its just different.

When asked, should i build or buy, comparing apples to apples, you can never build an identical bike for less than the manufacturer can.

I would also argue, that you could buy the 10k bike new, take off the new high end drive train and fancy suspension, sell that, and buy new lower end stuff ... would put you at the same or lower price than individually sourcing every new part.

So say I buy a bike second hand now, would you recommend a higher spec, carbon hard tail or a lower spec but full suspension aluminium bike. I have been browsing a lot and have found both of these around the place.

It depends mate, if it is a relatively modern alloy full sys from a decent brand then maybe the full sus but generally speaking most decent full sus used are around £1500 up.

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 17:06 Quote
Danzzz88 wrote:
benslingsby wrote:
cmcrawfo wrote:


you are missing the point.

if you are not building the exact same spec, then its not cheaper, its just different.

When asked, should i build or buy, comparing apples to apples, you can never build an identical bike for less than the manufacturer can.

I would also argue, that you could buy the 10k bike new, take off the new high end drive train and fancy suspension, sell that, and buy new lower end stuff ... would put you at the same or lower price than individually sourcing every new part.

So say I buy a bike second hand now, would you recommend a higher spec, carbon hard tail or a lower spec but full suspension aluminium bike. I have been browsing a lot and have found both of these around the place.

It depends mate, if it is a relatively modern alloy full sys from a decent brand then maybe the full sus but generally speaking most decent full sus used are around £1500 up.
Okay, thank you

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 17:07 Quote
There is a bargain full sus bikes like the Callibre Bossnut that people seem to like you could take a look at that.

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 17:08 Quote
This is about as cheap as it gets new for a decent full sus.
https://www.google.com/search?q=calibre+bossnut&oq=callibre&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l4.2920j1j7&client=ms-android-ee-uk-revc&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 17:09 Quote
Danzzz88 wrote:
There is a bargain full sus bikes like the Callibre Bossnut that people seem to like you could take a look at that.
I’ll have a look at that thank you.

Posted: Jul 1, 2020 at 17:11 Quote
Danzzz88 wrote:
This is about as cheap as it gets new for a decent full sus.
https://www.google.com/search?q=calibre+bossnut&oq=callibre&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l4.2920j1j7&client=ms-android-ee-uk-revc&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
Other bike recommendations like that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Posted: Jul 4, 2020 at 16:23 Quote
I’d suggest saving your money to get a full suspension for around 1500.

Posted: Jul 4, 2020 at 20:37 Quote
The whole point of building a bike is to get what you want. Why would anyone build exactly what they can buy? That point is irrelevant, IMO. I built my Tallboy CC cheaper with what I wanted than what I could get a whole bike, and I got better components. Plus, I hate SRAM and RS, so building is really my only option.

If you like what you like, you build. If you are not picky, you buy.

Some parts you can pick up used and save. Other parts are best bought new, or necessary.

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