Norco Range 2021

PB Forum :: Norco
Norco Range 2021
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Posted: Sep 15, 2021 at 10:39 Quote
maxwharin1 wrote:
bradwalton wrote:
For those with cable rattle, I took some 3/4” pipe insulation I had laying around and shoved it in the top tube and down tube. No more rattle, and the bike doesn’t sound so “hollow” anymore either. Weighed the insulation at 20g so no prob there.
What do you mean when you say “shoved it in the top tube and down tube” like you literally just used it to fill negative space in the frame? Or did you successfully get the jag wire housing to slide down the cable?

This stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-x-6-ft-Foam-Self-Seal-Pipe-Insulation-ORS07812/204760815

Yeah I cut it lengthwise into a section that would fit into top tube and a wider one for down tube to fill negative space. It’s so much better I can’t believe it. Costs next to nothing in dollars or weight. Remove the fork and shove 2’ long foam section into the frame. They come out easily if need be. Push/pull on cables as you seat the foam in, if you hear the housing knocking in the frame, pull the foam out, reposition, try again. Eventually it will silence the cables entirely and deaden the hollow frame sound on the trail. Totally worth it.

Posted: Sep 15, 2021 at 11:21 Quote
Response from Norco about the rear axle coming loose.

"Hi there,

Thanks for reaching out to Norco, and I'm sorry to hear that you've been having trouble with retaining your rear axle. Assembly documents call for 10Nm for the axle and 4Nm and loctite for the pinch bolt.

If you've been hitting those numbers and still running into problems, I'd recommend taking things to your Norco dealer and have them assess what's going on with the axle and dropouts.

Hope this helps,

Adrian C
Norco Bicycles"

Posted: Sep 15, 2021 at 11:27 Quote
austenselk wrote:
Response from Norco about the rear axle coming loose.

"Hi there,

Thanks for reaching out to Norco, and I'm sorry to hear that you've been having trouble with retaining your rear axle. Assembly documents call for 10Nm for the axle and 4Nm and loctite for the pinch bolt.

If you've been hitting those numbers and still running into problems, I'd recommend taking things to your Norco dealer and have them assess what's going on with the axle and dropouts.

Hope this helps,

Adrian C
Norco Bicycles"

That's interesting. Keeping in mind there's lots of differences in conditions, climate ect, I haven't yet had issues, just double-checked with torque wrench last night. I don't get why loctite for the pinch bolt, as you just break it every time you take out the axle...

All of that being said, I haven't had any bolts come loose yet on the frame, so maybe I just need to ride harder.

Posted: Sep 15, 2021 at 13:18 Quote
austenselk wrote:
Response from Norco about the rear axle coming loose.

"Hi there,

Thanks for reaching out to Norco, and I'm sorry to hear that you've been having trouble with retaining your rear axle. Assembly documents call for 10Nm for the axle and 4Nm and loctite for the pinch bolt.

If you've been hitting those numbers and still running into problems, I'd recommend taking things to your Norco dealer and have them assess what's going on with the axle and dropouts.

Hope this helps,

Adrian C
Norco Bicycles"

Better go to your local dealer then XD

Posted: Sep 15, 2021 at 15:58 Quote
austenselk wrote:
Response from Norco about the rear axle coming loose.

"Hi there,

Thanks for reaching out to Norco, and I'm sorry to hear that you've been having trouble with retaining your rear axle. Assembly documents call for 10Nm for the axle and 4Nm and loctite for the pinch bolt.

If you've been hitting those numbers and still running into problems, I'd recommend taking things to your Norco dealer and have them assess what's going on with the axle and dropouts.

Hope this helps,

Adrian C
Norco Bicycles"

I just checked mine with a torque wrench, 10Nm and 4Nm are both tighter than I had them. I was actually a bit nervous getting up to 4Nm for the small one. Maybe invest in a quality torque wrench. 1/4” drive size is pretty handy.

Posted: Sep 15, 2021 at 16:15 Quote
bradwalton wrote:
austenselk wrote:
Response from Norco about the rear axle coming loose.

"Hi there,

Thanks for reaching out to Norco, and I'm sorry to hear that you've been having trouble with retaining your rear axle. Assembly documents call for 10Nm for the axle and 4Nm and loctite for the pinch bolt.

If you've been hitting those numbers and still running into problems, I'd recommend taking things to your Norco dealer and have them assess what's going on with the axle and dropouts.

Hope this helps,

Adrian C
Norco Bicycles"

I just checked mine with a torque wrench, 10Nm and 4Nm are both tighter than I had them. I was actually a bit nervous getting up to 4Nm for the small one. Maybe invest in a quality torque wrench. 1/4” drive size is pretty handy.


I’ve owned a torque wrench for a few years now. Always handy to have one.

Posted: Sep 16, 2021 at 11:40 Quote
bradwalton wrote:
maxwharin1 wrote:
bradwalton wrote:
For those with cable rattle, I took some 3/4” pipe insulation I had laying around and shoved it in the top tube and down tube. No more rattle, and the bike doesn’t sound so “hollow” anymore either. Weighed the insulation at 20g so no prob there.
What do you mean when you say “shoved it in the top tube and down tube” like you literally just used it to fill negative space in the frame? Or did you successfully get the jag wire housing to slide down the cable?

This stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-x-6-ft-Foam-Self-Seal-Pipe-Insulation-ORS07812/204760815

Yeah I cut it lengthwise into a section that would fit into top tube and a wider one for down tube to fill negative space. It’s so much better I can’t believe it. Costs next to nothing in dollars or weight. Remove the fork and shove 2’ long foam section into the frame. They come out easily if need be. Push/pull on cables as you seat the foam in, if you hear the housing knocking in the frame, pull the foam out, reposition, try again. Eventually it will silence the cables entirely and deaden the hollow frame sound on the trail. Totally worth it.

Interesting, might have to give this a shot. I wound up using two zip-ties double wrapped on the dropper cable where it exits the head-tube, to tension the cable slightly so it doesn't move in the down-tube. So far so good.

Once I dealt with the cable rattle, the chain-slap was now more apparent. My first fix was to use some STFU chain "dampeners" and that worked really well. I couldn't get past the look of them since instead of being on the chain-stay they were on top of the seat-stay and way more visible. I Removed them + the stock seat-stay plastic guard(hard plastic that resonates) and made my own protector with 3M mastic tape, this has done as good a job as the STFU but is much easier on the eyes. The downside of the 3M is it's more susceptible to wear as the chain impacts it.

Posted: Sep 16, 2021 at 12:34 Quote
maxwharin1 wrote:
bradwalton wrote:
maxwharin1 wrote:

What do you mean when you say “shoved it in the top tube and down tube” like you literally just used it to fill negative space in the frame? Or did you successfully get the jag wire housing to slide down the cable?

This stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-x-6-ft-Foam-Self-Seal-Pipe-Insulation-ORS07812/204760815

Yeah I cut it lengthwise into a section that would fit into top tube and a wider one for down tube to fill negative space. It’s so much better I can’t believe it. Costs next to nothing in dollars or weight. Remove the fork and shove 2’ long foam section into the frame. They come out easily if need be. Push/pull on cables as you seat the foam in, if you hear the housing knocking in the frame, pull the foam out, reposition, try again. Eventually it will silence the cables entirely and deaden the hollow frame sound on the trail. Totally worth it.

Interesting, might have to give this a shot. I wound up using two zip-ties double wrapped on the dropper cable where it exits the head-tube, to tension the cable slightly so it doesn't move in the down-tube. So far so good.

Once I dealt with the cable rattle, the chain-slap was now more apparent. My first fix was to use some STFU chain "dampeners" and that worked really well. I couldn't get past the look of them since instead of being on the chain-stay they were on top of the seat-stay and way more visible. I Removed them + the stock seat-stay plastic guard(hard plastic that resonates) and made my own protector with 3M mastic tape, this has done as good a job as the STFU but is much easier on the eyes. The downside of the 3M is it's more susceptible to wear as the chain impacts it.

Do you have pictures by chance of the STFU and your own made using 3M?

Posted: Sep 16, 2021 at 12:57 Quote
austenselk wrote:
maxwharin1 wrote:
bradwalton wrote:


This stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-x-6-ft-Foam-Self-Seal-Pipe-Insulation-ORS07812/204760815

Yeah I cut it lengthwise into a section that would fit into top tube and a wider one for down tube to fill negative space. It’s so much better I can’t believe it. Costs next to nothing in dollars or weight. Remove the fork and shove 2’ long foam section into the frame. They come out easily if need be. Push/pull on cables as you seat the foam in, if you hear the housing knocking in the frame, pull the foam out, reposition, try again. Eventually it will silence the cables entirely and deaden the hollow frame sound on the trail. Totally worth it.

Interesting, might have to give this a shot. I wound up using two zip-ties double wrapped on the dropper cable where it exits the head-tube, to tension the cable slightly so it doesn't move in the down-tube. So far so good.

Once I dealt with the cable rattle, the chain-slap was now more apparent. My first fix was to use some STFU chain "dampeners" and that worked really well. I couldn't get past the look of them since instead of being on the chain-stay they were on top of the seat-stay and way more visible. I Removed them + the stock seat-stay plastic guard(hard plastic that resonates) and made my own protector with 3M mastic tape, this has done as good a job as the STFU but is much easier on the eyes. The downside of the 3M is it's more susceptible to wear as the chain impacts it.

Do you have pictures by chance of the STFU and your own made using 3M?
I don't have an image of the STFU, but if you've seen anyone with them on their bike it was basically the same..

Same goes for the DIY setup, looks the same as what most people would do with mastic tape. In this case though I applied a layer to the seat-stay followed by some dense foam bits i cut to shape and then more tape on top to mold to the shape and used some light heat from a heat gun to mold the tape further and biond it to the tape below it.

Posted: Sep 16, 2021 at 13:11 Quote
Gotcha, and it looks perfect.

Loris Vergier

This picture is from the Santa Cruz pits last year or something. But yeah, yours looks great!

Posted: Sep 17, 2021 at 13:52 Quote
Had a night ride on Wednesday after work, and three different rides on Thursday totaling that day of nearly 4 hours in the saddle with a lot of varied terrain. This bike handles all of it incredibly well. I still haven't decided if I like using the lockout on the DHX2 or if I prefer to keep it open.

Posted: Sep 19, 2021 at 23:29 Quote
At work on Saturday I was doing a quick drivetrain cleaning before my night ride, and I came across two of my bolts that had backed themselves out! Scary to think if I hadn't of found these and had these fallen out while riding.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 6:28 Quote
austenselk wrote:
At work on Saturday I was doing a quick drivetrain cleaning before my night ride, and I came across two of my bolts that had backed themselves out! Scary to think if I hadn't of found these and had these fallen out while riding.

Those are the bolts I was talking about when I said this:

“Check the 4 bolts for the removable dropouts. Mine were about to fall out after the first ride and it caused the axle to wiggle loose as well. Not sure if Norco recommends but from experience I went ahead and blue-loctited those 4 bolts. Now have over 100 more miles and no issues there.”

That is probably why your axle has been coming loose.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 7:19 Quote
bradwalton wrote:
austenselk wrote:
At work on Saturday I was doing a quick drivetrain cleaning before my night ride, and I came across two of my bolts that had backed themselves out! Scary to think if I hadn't of found these and had these fallen out while riding.

Those are the bolts I was talking about when I said this:

“Check the 4 bolts for the removable dropouts. Mine were about to fall out after the first ride and it caused the axle to wiggle loose as well. Not sure if Norco recommends but from experience I went ahead and blue-loctited those 4 bolts. Now have over 100 more miles and no issues there.”

That is probably why your axle has been coming loose.

I knew what you meant, and at the time they were good. After a single day and nearly four hours of riding time, they then weren’t good.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 10:11 Quote
austenselk wrote:
bradwalton wrote:
austenselk wrote:
At work on Saturday I was doing a quick drivetrain cleaning before my night ride, and I came across two of my bolts that had backed themselves out! Scary to think if I hadn't of found these and had these fallen out while riding.

Those are the bolts I was talking about when I said this:

“Check the 4 bolts for the removable dropouts. Mine were about to fall out after the first ride and it caused the axle to wiggle loose as well. Not sure if Norco recommends but from experience I went ahead and blue-loctited those 4 bolts. Now have over 100 more miles and no issues there.”

That is probably why your axle has been coming loose.

I knew what you meant, and at the time they were good. After a single day and nearly four hours of riding time, they then weren’t good.

Pretty standard new bike problem, just keep checking bolts as the bike breaks in and eventually it will stop happening so often. Not uncommon to check your bolts every few rides though..


 
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