I have test fit a spesh slaughter 27.5*2.8 on a 40mm rim and it all cleared. I did not ride it, but I will likely swap to some wider tires shortly so I can get a little for float in the sandy bits.
I have test fit a spesh slaughter 27.5*2.8 on a 40mm rim and it all cleared. I did not ride it, but I will likely swap to some wider tires shortly so I can get a little for float in the sandy bits.
I have 40mm rims and just ordered the Specialized Slaughter in 2.6.... want to change my front 29" tire to 2.6 as well....
Just for those looking, Specialized has the 27.5x2.6 for 13.95 on their website currently
Ship bike to LBS, ask LBS to upgrade Driver and cassette for the price difference in existing, I did this for minimal price and rock GX cassette out of the box. Ordered via LBS with upgrades.
Ship bike to LBS, ask LBS to upgrade Driver and cassette for the price difference in existing, I did this for minimal price and rock GX cassette out of the box. Ordered via LBS with upgrades.
I'll ask them, but will probably go with micro spline, as shimano is more available and cheaper in Europe in general, but especially where I live.
Hi! Someone ride S1 size? My wife is 4’11” so on the bottom side of the chart. How does it feel a mullet for small person? Also can we fit 220mm rotors on this bike? Thanks!
Hi! Someone ride S1 size? My wife is 4’11” so on the bottom side of the chart. How does it feel a mullet for small person? Also can we fit 220mm rotors on this bike? Thanks!
My rear rotor is a 223mm and fits. Not sure how useful that would be for a 4’11” person.
Looking to do a shimano drivetrain build (conversion from the NX build) and looking right now at crank and I see there are two options:
-a boost/non-boost compatible version (Q-Factor 172mm, Chain line: 52mm, O.L.D 142mm / 148mm (Boost)) -and a boost specific one (Q-Factor 178mm, Chain line: 55mm, O.L.D 148mm (Boost))
My question is, does it make a difference if I use the boost/non-boost version instead of the boost specific, would it have a negative impact, do I need to consider something specific for the status? I saw some shimano builds here so I guess someone will have real world experience with this.
Hi! Someone ride S1 size? My wife is 4’11” so on the bottom side of the chart. How does it feel a mullet for small person? Also can we fit 220mm rotors on this bike? Thanks!
My rear rotor is a 223mm and fits. Not sure how useful that would be for a 4’11” person.
It’s just to swap wheels from another bike occasionally without retiré the rotors. Effectively at this size it’s not useful so big rotors
Looking to do a shimano drivetrain build (conversion from the NX build) and looking right now at crank and I see there are two options:
-a boost/non-boost compatible version (Q-Factor 172mm, Chain line: 52mm, O.L.D 142mm / 148mm (Boost)) -and a boost specific one (Q-Factor 178mm, Chain line: 55mm, O.L.D 148mm (Boost))
My question is, does it make a difference if I use the boost/non-boost version instead of the boost specific, would it have a negative impact, do I need to consider something specific for the status? I saw some shimano builds here so I guess someone will have real world experience with this.
I have the 7100 crank on mine because I wanted the narrowest chainline I could find. Most of my hard work is done in the lower half of the cassette so I was looking to prioritize a straighter chainline in those gears.
Do you have an idea for a chainring size and offset?
I have the 7100 crank on mine because I wanted the narrowest chainline I could find. Most of my hard work is done in the lower half of the cassette so I was looking to prioritize a straighter chainline in those gears.
Do you have an idea for a chainring size and offset?
Planned a 32t chainring. What kind of offset are you meaning?
So if you think of the cranks as having a flat plane where the chainring goes that’s what Shimano means by having a 52mm or 55mm chainring. It’s 52mm from the centreline of the BB shell. When you buy that 52mm or 55mm you’re really buying a range of chain lines that are adjustable with chainring offset.
That flat plane is where the chainring mounts. The chainring can have an offset built into it, that sometimes varies by ring size (tooth count). A completely flat chainring would have a 0mm offset.
In my case I have a 3mm offset 28t ring on a 52mm chainline crank set (m7100 cranks). My 3rd and 4th gears are the ones I tend to do most of my climbing in, and the chain is visually straight in those two gears. So my chainring is 3mm offset towards the inside.
For my trails, lower gears than 3-4 are a backup plan for when I’m tired. Higher gears are for pedaling on flatter trails and don’t see the same sustained loads. That’s why the chainline is optimized on this bike in gear 3-4.
May vary depending on your intended use. If I only ran this thing in a bike park I would go for a wider chainline, bigger ring, and less offset. I’ve put the stock nearly 0mm shimano chainring back on for park days on my last bike (because you never use the lowest gears there for much time).
Post Message
Quote
