New Status anyone have one

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New Status anyone have one
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flag KrampaKiller
Posted: Mar 10, 2023 at 7:50 Quote
Thanks for the clarification.

So running the noon boost cranks with a non-offset chainring would bring it closer to the middle but slightly off the to lower gears?

I usually pedal to my trails and use almost the whole range of the cassette, although more focused on the very high and very low gears. I assume running non-boost cranks with non-offset chainring would be the best compromise for me?
flag nickmalysh
Posted: Mar 10, 2023 at 8:28 Quote
KrampaKiller wrote:
Looking to do a shimano drivetrain build (conversion from the NX build) and looking right now at crank and I see there are two options:

-a boost/non-boost compatible version (Q-Factor 172mm, Chain line: 52mm, O.L.D 142mm / 148mm (Boost))
-and a boost specific one (Q-Factor 178mm, Chain line: 55mm, O.L.D 148mm (Boost))

My question is, does it make a difference if I use the boost/non-boost version instead of the boost specific, would it have a negative impact, do I need to consider something specific for the status? I saw some shimano builds here so I guess someone will have real world experience with this.

The boost/non-boost cranks
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shimano-slx-fc-m7100-1-12-speed-crank-without-chainring?number=20092822-40238900

The boost specific cranks
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shimano-slx-fc-m7120-1-boost-12-speed-crank-without-chainring?number=20092815-40238892

you can regulate chainline using chainring offset.
why would you upgrade cranks in first place?
flag husstler
O+
Posted: Mar 10, 2023 at 8:30 Quote
Sounds very reasonable to me. The shimano ring might be a good choice in that case - you would have a fairly straight chainline in the middle of the cassette. My crank came with a shimano chainring and that one was a good fit with the 7100 crankset on this bike. I think getting the ring with the cranks was also a lot less expensive than the alternatives.
flag KrampaKiller
Posted: Mar 10, 2023 at 9:03 Quote
nickmalysh wrote:
you can regulate chainline using chainring offset.
why would you upgrade cranks in first place?

I am going too sound a bit snobbish, but I just love shimano more and would like to have something great out of the box. Also shimano parts are generally more available and a bit cheaper than sram in my region. Also I have already people lined up to buy off the nx groupset from me so its not that big of a financial hit, but a big comfort (and style) increase for me.

husstler wrote:
Sounds very reasonable to me. The shimano ring might be a good choice in that case - you would have a fairly straight chainline in the middle of the cassette. My crank came with a shimano chainring and that one was a good fit with the 7100 crankset on this bike. I think getting the ring with the cranks was also a lot less expensive than the alternatives.

I'll do my initial build with the 7100 crankset and stock chainring, but will keep in mind that offset chainrings are an option
flag nickmalysh
Posted: Mar 10, 2023 at 11:15 Quote
KrampaKiller wrote:
nickmalysh wrote:
you can regulate chainline using chainring offset.
why would you upgrade cranks in first place?

I am going too sound a bit snobbish, but I just love shimano more and would like to have something great out of the box. Also shimano parts are generally more available and a bit cheaper than sram in my region. Also I have already people lined up to buy off the nx groupset from me so its not that big of a financial hit, but a big comfort (and style) increase for me.

husstler wrote:
Sounds very reasonable to me. The shimano ring might be a good choice in that case - you would have a fairly straight chainline in the middle of the cassette. My crank came with a shimano chainring and that one was a good fit with the 7100 crankset on this bike. I think getting the ring with the cranks was also a lot less expensive than the alternatives.

I'll do my initial build with the 7100 crankset and stock chainring, but will keep in mind that offset chainrings are an option

Brand aside, I highly recommend 165mm or less, that is probably most important factor
flag AgrAde
Posted: Mar 10, 2023 at 21:20 Quote
Here's my clearances with the XT 8100 non-boost 165 crankset mounted with a standard offset ZRACE 32t ring:

https://i.imgur.com/BxLrWE6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oqWyFzB.jpg

As you can see the crank is quite tight to the chainstay. I've had flexier bikes with flexier cranks where this clearance would have resulted in them rubbing, but it's totally fine for me. YMMV.

The chainring is fine with about 5mm clearance. Would fit a 34, not sure about a 36.

Please ignore my pedal pin situation.
flag breakthebeta
O+
Posted: Mar 10, 2023 at 23:51 Quote
FWIW my Sram cranks are probably only about 1/4" away from the chainstay, maybe less. Same color bike because it matters Smile
flag KrampaKiller
Posted: Mar 11, 2023 at 13:23 Quote
nickmalysh wrote:

Brand aside, I highly recommend 165mm or less, that is probably most important factor

I read about the benefits about the shorter cranks, which are mostly for the downhill, but are there any negatives for pedaling uphill or for longer flat stretches?

AgrAde wrote:
Here's my clearances with the XT 8100 non-boost 165 crankset mounted with a standard offset ZRACE 32t ring:

https://i.imgur.com/BxLrWE6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oqWyFzB.jpg

As you can see the crank is quite tight to the chainstay. I've had flexier bikes with flexier cranks where this clearance would have resulted in them rubbing, but it's totally fine for me. YMMV.

The chainring is fine with about 5mm clearance. Would fit a 34, not sure about a 36.

Please ignore my pedal pin situation.

Thanks for the pics. Seems generally tight as breatkthebeta said, so I suppose there will be a lot of heel rub, will make sure to put on some frame protection on the seat and chainstays. I will put on a 32t chainring so I guess I will be pretty safe from any frame scratching.

Since I'll be going for a similar setup like you, how is your shifting overall? Any specific gears that have problems/rubbing/noise/etc?

Btw, never saw those ZRACE chainrings before, how are they holding up? Any noticeable differences compare to stock shimano, except for the price?
flag AgrAde
Posted: Mar 11, 2023 at 13:59 Quote
I don't think there's any downsides to 165 really. You have to get used to the higher cadence, but they're much better for clearance, and it keeps your hips straighter which I find beneficial for general handling.

I don't really have much of an issue with heel rub. Any more than any other frame I've had anyway. I've got protection on there and do rub, but it doesn't feel like the chainstays are in the way at all like I have felt from other bikes.

I'm full 12sp XT and it performs perfectly. I've always run my chainrings as inboard as I can get them, given the time I spend climbing compared to descending, it makes sense to me. I feel like the drivetrain behaves a little better in the first two gears and doesn't make as much noise in those gears when it gets dirty. I've not noticed any degredation in performance in the high gears. Shifts great between 11/12, runs well. Can backpedal in any gear.

The ZRACE ring is working well. It has done a bunch of miles and still has a lot left in it - lasting longer than a raceface ring has ever lasted me by a considerable margin, for instance. I haven't actually used the Shimano rings so can't compare there. It's silent, meshes with the 12 speed shimano chains well, and looks rad. The one time it dropped a chain was because my clutch was turned off. I bought this one to test it out, next time I see them for sale cheap I'll probably buy a stack.
flag husstler
O+
Posted: Mar 11, 2023 at 14:19 Quote
Agree about the crank length. My next ones will be 165 or shorter. Currently 170. Bb feels quite low on this bike.
flag breakthebeta
O+
Posted: Mar 11, 2023 at 23:20 Quote
The only downside of shorter cranks is you won't be able to put quite as much power into your pedal stroke. Rarely an issue. With the DPX2 I felt like I was pedal striking more than I would like. I upgraded to a Float X and it happens less for sure. The Float X is definitely more supportive in the mid stroke.
flag nickmalysh
Posted: Mar 13, 2023 at 9:21 Quote
KrampaKiller wrote:

I read about the benefits about the shorter cranks, which are mostly for the downhill, but are there any negatives for pedaling uphill or for longer flat stretches?


your chances to eat shit on uphill or downhill on that particular frame reduces exponentually the shorter the crank's;

there is no negatives of not eating shit, pedal strike can catapult you or result in loosing control uphill or downhill.
flag 302Scoutin
Posted: Mar 13, 2023 at 10:01 Quote
[Quote="KrampaKiller"][Quote="nickmalysh"]



I read about the benefits about the shorter cranks, which are mostly for the downhill, but are there any negatives for pedaling uphill or for longer flat stretches?

[Quote="AgrAde"]


Have you ever hit a rock or root with your pedal going uphill when you're putting the power down? It's not at the top of the fun list for sure..... haha
flag husstler
O+
Posted: Mar 13, 2023 at 11:43 Quote
Have been close to buying 155mm Canfield cranks several times. I will follow through sooner or later.
flag KrampaKiller
Posted: Mar 15, 2023 at 9:03 Quote
Anybody knows the approximate length of the rear brake hose for an S4 frame?

I know its a stupid question, its something I can check when my bike arrives, but I plan on carrying over the brakes from current bike and they might come up short. Not a big problem generally, but I have maguras and parts are a bit hard to come by in my country and I would have to order those online and it would take 2-3 weeks until those arrive, maybe even longer.

 


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