Sram Code brakes are no good!

PB Forum :: All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country
Sram Code brakes are no good!
  • Next Page
Author Message
flag mtbtrekracer
Posted: Aug 16, 2020 at 2:17 Quote
I just spent 3 days at the Bike park, took a DH and enduro bike, enduro was using XT 4 pots - dh was using sram guide RSC.

I got so much more modulation with the Sram's, could slow down much faster on loose conditions due to the feel and less off/on.

XT's etc got popular because People who cant drive a real car properly prefer them. sorry but off/on brakes dont belong on anything with limited traction, fair play if on concrete etc but thats too boring.

Alot of DH racers using Sram for a reason, big rotor with great modulation = going fast but in confident control.

Yes Sram Bleeding sucks donkey nuts but the bleeding edge tech has fixed it really well, i actually found it was quicker to remove all air from sram brakes(not std r's they are crap) than the XT's - they just kept bleeding bubbles on both f/r.

I have a new set of code g2 RSC coming for the DH and the guide RSC will go on the enduro.

Thats my previous 72hour first hand experience testing this exact thing Wink
flag Danzzz88
Posted: Aug 16, 2020 at 3:59 Quote
Different strokes for different folks, I had hope V4s, similar to RSC's modulation wise and preferred Shimano after I got used to them. You don't need excessive modulation, you just need a lighter finger and more control with Shimanos. You say people who cant drive prefer Shimano, I would say it is the opposite, people who can modulate Shimano with a light touch whilst at the same time being able to take advantage of the high power and ability to quickly start scrubbing speed without that spongey delay you get with high modulation brakes. I find XTR's at least have 'enough' modulation, not an excessive amount, just enough to be a snappy and powerful feeling brake that you can still control and prevent skidding if you use a light touch but start kicking in and slowing you down straight away rather than after pulling the lever 50% of the way. Shimanos are only too on off if you don't have much finesse with your finger or if you panic a lot on stuff and suddenly grab the lever with full force, in that case you will think they suck. It's like playing an FPS shooter on PC and saying this DPI is better than that DPI on your mouse, you get used to whatever you use for a while.
flag gnarnaimo
O+ FL
Posted: Aug 16, 2020 at 9:05 Quote
TheSlayer99 wrote:
100% should have just started there. Whatever you heard about sram brakes was wrong.

Choose a brake brand and be a dick about it.

Amidoingitright?
flag HaggeredShins
Posted: Aug 16, 2020 at 12:13 Quote
OP just to be clear, the only issue you're having is noise?

Harmonic resonance in brakes is the result of the alignment between rotor and pads along with the total rigidity of the interface--for this reason you can have the same brake set squeal on one frame/fork and not another given the same pad and rotor alignment, ergo your brakes can be fully functional and still noisy. This falls under literally an entire subset of vehicle engineering normally called NVH.

Usually this can be resolved on bicycles by setting your caliper alignment per usual, fixing the front/top bolt, and slightly toeing the caliper in at the rear/bottom before torquing it down. Except for contaminated brakes, a noisy brake is usually a working one, just also annoying.

Good thing we have the typical sRaM sUcKZz guy to sort things out for us, though.
flag izzygaafar
Posted: Aug 19, 2020 at 22:07 Quote
Danzzz88 wrote:
Believe it or not sometimes this is because the pads and disc are too clean. I had the same issue and kept playing around with a set of brakes once, tried everything you did, including brake disc cleaner, pads in the oven, pads sanded, rotors in the oven ect... Had a similar issue on a few brakes, then realised it's because they are too clean. Brakes need the grit off the worn pad suffice to stick around, it's what helps give the abrasion and reduces the squeal, ever heard the expression 'squeaky clean'. That black brake dust near your caliper is your friend. Try wetting them and doing some hard braking, try and get a bit of a residue on there so when it dries they have more bite. Also if you keep the Sram brakes, might aswell get some Trickstuff pads as they are a lot better.

Oh, I have had the bike for two years and never changed the pads LOL, but they aren't higher end ones so yeah. Anyway I just picked up a norco sight with guide r brakes so yeah!!
flag nematon785
Posted: Oct 20, 2020 at 23:43 Quote
Sram Codes are bangin good brakes. Warble goes away once warmed up. Sram fussy about bedding process. No lock up in the parking lot or god forbid lock up when hot till broken in. Xt I had were substandard junk and now im on xtrs, still not impressing me. Codes were like moto brakes. Shimano like overgrown road bike stuff. They good nuff, id like to try saints, ill stay with xtr cause they came with the bike and i can feather and go off tire feel. Both are a world better than older stuff ive run before. If i get howl i either just went through water or need to fine tune. I would try new pads (good new pads)and a clean rotor, bed them proper. No locking up till broken in. Long hot ride on a good smooth downhill. Dont lock them even in the the stand or parking lot till bedded. Adjust every ride. Get used to setting them right -float caliper and no rubbing every ride till they get set up.
flag Danzzz88
Posted: Oct 20, 2020 at 23:49 Quote
Let the war begin XD

Seriously though people have their favourites, good experiences, bad experiences ect just like all other components, the best way is just to buy and try or try a mates ect because you will always get people on both sides of the fence on forums. Personally the only Shimano brakes I ever had an issue with were the really old style XT with the rectangle master cylinder and that is only probably because I never bled them. M8000 XT can be a bit on off but most Shimano brakes have plenty enough modulation if you don't act like a chimp on the bars, produce loads of power anf have really nice ergonomic and light feeling levers. A lot of peoples bad experience or personal preference I think often comes down to the pads, not the brakes themselves.

Different strokes for different folks
flag gnarnaimo
O+ FL
Posted: Oct 21, 2020 at 6:29 Quote
The only issue I have had with the codes on my Megatower in their over 4000 km of use is wearing out pads. Never have I had a noise issue.
flag skerby
Posted: Oct 21, 2020 at 12:09 Quote
My codes squeak and howl, but once they heat up they are silent. You need to get em hot.
flag mtbtrekracer
Posted: Oct 21, 2020 at 12:12 Quote
Never had issues with guides or codes. Some people seem to think locking up the wheel just flat out means "MORE POWER REEEEEEEE" Personally i love codes as they stop you way more efficiently(and faster) especially on a DH bike where control is required. However i find to get the most from them my hands hurt on long/fast bits.

I mostly run XT 4 piston as it really helps with my hand pain for whatever reason.(and for me XT is less than half the price of code R's) I still have Code RSC on my DH bike as its just better.
flag thedirtmerchant0
Posted: Oct 21, 2020 at 17:18 Quote
I lost my faith and trust in SRAM when my buddies BRAND NEW SRAM guides started pouring fluid from the caliper half way through a race.. I changed my brakes the next day. I just can't trust SRAM brakes anymore!
  • Next Page

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv42 0.010289
Mobile Version of Website