I am so freaking confused right now

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
I am so freaking confused right now
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Posted: Oct 15, 2020 at 5:27 Quote
master link should be installed like this one.... I used the photo below because I find it highly unlikely that you have a u-shaped clip on the master link with these modern bikes. But, if the latter is your link style, then the open end of the clip will face the rear vs. the direction of chain rotation. Otherwise, the pic below should be representative of what you have.....


Although I am concerned that you said you couldn't get it apart yet noted in a prior post that there was a new chain on it....(????)

I'm still thinking you may have a chain issue....but it's a total guess. Take the rear wheel off the bike on your workstand (or hang bike from ceiling or whatever...).

I would even remove the jockey wheels so the chain can run free. Grab a round-shanked screwdriver and route the chain over it then rotate the cranks. Protect the stay from the chain dragging on it and then watch each link as it travels over the screwdriver body when you rotate the cranks.

Regardless of what results you get from the chain inspection, I would go back through each change you made when you converted the drivetrain. Review each specific change for clues as to where this could have been introduced. make a list on a notebook and review each step. sometimes you have an "ah ha!" moment and you find your root cause.

Posted: Oct 15, 2020 at 7:44 Quote
If its shimano master link, arrow shows direction?. Sram power lock, rounded edge makes contact with the chainring. Both should have the pins seated firmly against the outside of the eyelet with no gap.

Posted: Oct 16, 2020 at 10:00 Quote
Soooo.... my chain just broke... amazon replaced it free lol. Hopefully the next time i can install it right.

Posted: Oct 16, 2020 at 10:02 Quote
Is it possible the spring in the derailleur is not strong enough?

Posted: Oct 16, 2020 at 11:52 Quote
When I first got a chain breaker I thought I was the man. Fixed a broken chain by pressing the pin back in. It broke next ride, I fixed it. 6x more times it broke.

Moral of the story, if you push a pin to fix a chain it's always temporary. Quick link is the only reliable way. Quick Link pliers are awesome.

Posted: Oct 16, 2020 at 13:20 Quote
Right, i JUST figured out how to change the length of the chain without reusing the old pin...
duuuh

Posted: Oct 19, 2020 at 4:41 Quote
lol...it's all a learning curve diamondback...!!! believe me I know. Wink

The old green bike in my profile is still running the chain I installed on it back in 1984 and has saw nearly 50k miles of hard use within a 2 year year period without issue. I have pushed pins in and out of that chain a hundred times if I've done it once. I did not replace it when I brought the bike out of retirement a few years ago.

These past few years, (my most recent bike builds), has been the ONLY time that I have used a quick link or master link on a bike chain. This method is definitely easier and will be the path I follow moving forward but never once have I had a chain break or fail by pressing pins in and out.

so....did you get the new chain on already and is your issue resolved ?

Posted: Oct 19, 2020 at 9:49 Quote
I got the new chain on and that didn't fix it. On the old chain i used a master link tool to take it off and after that the master link kept coming apart. If i use a new pin will it stay/not break?

Posted: Oct 19, 2020 at 10:07 Quote
Everyone seems to be overlooking the potentially obvious solution. Do you know how to adjust derailleur cable tension and have you played with that to help ensure it is correct?

Next would be chain line (already mentioned). Last 1x10 conversation I did took alot of washers/spacers to get the front chainring centered and working correctly.

Posted: Oct 19, 2020 at 11:08 Quote
doggparadox wrote:
Everyone seems to be overlooking the potentially obvious solution. Do you know how to adjust derailleur cable tension and have you played with that to help ensure it is correct?

I ruled that out because of OP's post....(LBS fit a new derailleur so you ASS-ume they did it properly...ugh) Although you are correct...! The barrel adjuster could be improperly tuned to give the der. proper travel... Good point dogg...

diamondback1x9 wrote:
SO, here's the story. i have a ?2014? diamondback response that i bought used and converted to 1x9 instead of 3x9, hence the username... Shortly after i converted it, i started to have this problem where when i put extreme torque on higher gears (smaller cogs), it would skip. took it to the bike shop, turns out it had a 10 spd derailleur on it. the bike shop changed that out for a 9 speed and it was still skipping. the cassette was well used so i bought the exact same one from amazon and installed it (correct torque and all that) (link to cassette: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NNQJ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on the wheel. i go to my lowest gear where it skips the most, pedaled real hard, and it still skips. that was about 4 weeks ago. it also had a new chain on it. now, it skips on the smallest 5 gears. any suggestions as to what could be causing the problem?

doggparadox wrote:
Next would be chain line (already mentioned). Last 1x10 conversation I did took alot of washers/spacers to get the front chainring centered and working correctly.

yeah...another good point, and I had mentioned that those could work their way loose allowing the chainring to "float" a bit... I was getting this similar scenario on climbs one day and found chainring bolts slackened... Swapped to 1x specific fasteners with no subsequent issues..

Posted: Oct 19, 2020 at 11:11 Quote
diamondback1x9 wrote:
I got the new chain on and that didn't fix it. On the old chain i used a master link tool to take it off and after that the master link kept coming apart. If i use a new pin will it stay/not break?

I believe the rule of thumb here is one-time-use on those master links. so, if you remove the master link, replace it with a new master link...

Posted: Oct 24, 2020 at 21:13 Quote
i would say try an 11sp master link. from my knowledge of 9spd bikes u have to have a smaller sized master link or it hits chain/seatstay. either that or ur freehub is effed which is what my old bike had and it did that same thing

Posted: Oct 24, 2020 at 22:30 Quote
doggparadox wrote:
Everyone seems to be overlooking the potentially obvious solution. Do you know how to adjust derailleur cable tension and have you played with that to help ensure it is correct?

Next would be chain line (already mentioned). Last 1x10 conversation I did took alot of washers/spacers to get the front chainring centered and working correctly.
How do i check the chain line?

Posted: Oct 24, 2020 at 22:32 Quote
agarton wrote:
i would say try an 11sp master link. from my knowledge of 9spd bikes u have to have a smaller sized master link or it hits chain/seatstay. either that or ur freehub is effed which is what my old bike had and it did that same thing
This is a possibility... rear wheel i got used from lbs... because i crashed and bent the old one beyond repair (so they say) some other biking friends say they could fix it up...

Posted: Oct 25, 2020 at 11:41 Quote
diamondback1x9 wrote:
doggparadox wrote:
Everyone seems to be overlooking the potentially obvious solution. Do you know how to adjust derailleur cable tension and have you played with that to help ensure it is correct?

Next would be chain line (already mentioned). Last 1x10 conversation I did took alot of washers/spacers to get the front chainring centered and working correctly.
How do i check the chain line?

Not sure if there's actually a good way to check it other than try moving your chainring around. Either moving it to the opposite side of your chainring spider or buying some spacers and longer bolts so that you can move it further inboard and outboard (generally when converting to 1x you need to move them further inboard)


 
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