Shigura brakes

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Posted: Mar 30, 2021 at 12:33 Quote
Anyway, for all those that want the nerdy details of these so called Frankenbrakes, let me introduce you to 52 pages of forum chat... You will find all the info you will ever need right here.

https://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/frankenbrakes-and-brake-improvement-discussion.274164/

Posted: Mar 30, 2021 at 18:57 Quote
Danzzz88 wrote:
Anyway, for all those that want the nerdy details of these so called Frankenbrakes, let me introduce you to 52 pages of forum chat... You will find all the info you will ever need right here.

https://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/frankenbrakes-and-brake-improvement-discussion.274164/


Haha thank you for that! I completely agree with you which is why I even considered going to the 2.3. But now I’m having issues with pads rubbing. Has anyone had issues with that using Magura rotors with Trickstuff power for the front and performance race in the back. Both the front and rear are getting noticeably worse since I first noticed it.

Posted: Mar 31, 2021 at 6:31 Quote
nullzwo wrote:
i see how there often is a difference between theory and reality - but my experience is that my shiguras have the same throw with hope, shiman, trp and galfer rotors (which is less than a with a shimano setup) and - according to your comment - pad thickness should be an issue too, but it isn't.

All brakes I've used, throw changes with pad wear, the thinner the pads the worst it gets, self adjusting pistons is the goal but rearely the case on bikes as they lack the tech to anticipate the issue.
Using thicker rotors with shimanos in the past caused a really big issue with power, the throw was so little the servo wave was not engaged properly and the brakes were weak and wooden in feel, the same also happens when you forward the pistons so much that engage instantly well before servo wave kicks in. A reason that I prefer the non servo wave models over the servo wave shitmano

One thing to note, magura's race pads use thicker lining and thinner backing plate but are overly thicker than performance and comfort models pads, giving a firmer lever with less throw but changes as it wears down.

danz is on point

Posted: Mar 31, 2021 at 15:21 Quote
adespotoskyli wrote:
nullzwo wrote:
i see how there often is a difference between theory and reality - but my experience is that my shiguras have the same throw with hope, shiman, trp and galfer rotors (which is less than a with a shimano setup) and - according to your comment - pad thickness should be an issue too, but it isn't.

All brakes I've used, throw changes with pad wear, the thinner the pads the worst it gets, self adjusting pistons is the goal but rearely the case on bikes as they lack the tech to anticipate the issue.
Using thicker rotors with shimanos in the past caused a really big issue with power, the throw was so little the servo wave was not engaged properly and the brakes were weak and wooden in feel, the same also happens when you forward the pistons so much that engage instantly well before servo wave kicks in. A reason that I prefer the non servo wave models over the servo wave shitmano

One thing to note, magura's race pads use thicker lining and thinner backing plate but are overly thicker than performance and comfort models pads, giving a firmer lever with less throw but changes as it wears down.

danz is on point

I definitely agree with you on the Perf Race pads being thicker cuz I’m running Trickstuff in the front and PR in the back. The rear bite point feels like it hits sooner than my front

Posted: Apr 2, 2021 at 23:18 Quote
Hey guys, I'm new to all of this and my friend gave me a Magura mt3 caliper connected to my Tektro levers. I was wondering if I can use the new Deore M6000 levers as a sub? If yes, what do I need to do? I have a tight budget and all of the bike parts here in the Philippines are OP.

Also, my friend used DOT4 fluid and I don't know if that affects the performance or anything.

TIA!

Posted: Apr 3, 2021 at 7:22 Quote
DOT fluid doesn't work in Shimano or Magura levers, using it damages the rubber seals. Both Shimano and Magura need mineral oil only. Those brakes are not trust worthy if being using DOT fluid as they could potentially fail at any point. Also DOT fluid is very nasty stuff, you don't want that on your hands or bike paint.

Posted: Apr 3, 2021 at 10:01 Quote
Just an update on the shigura set up, today I had some spare time and was checking the pins of both magura and shimano as to what gives the best interface to work with and discovered that magura pin is actually bigger by 3 tenths of mm than shimano pin and it DOES NOT fit properly in the shimano mc recess to form a good seal, actually there is a possibility to damage the inners by creating a budge if you force it, I did notice this after checking the shimano mc I had used before and had an oil leak and it turned out it could not seal properly because of the magura pin going sideways in and budging the recess causind a bad seal. I drop a shimano pin in and goes directly and centres on the recess deep in the mc but the magura one stays out in the part that the olive expands when pushed by the compression nut. If anyone noticed oil stains or a leak at the compression nut that's probably the issue.

Posted: Apr 11, 2021 at 9:16 Quote
gnarcissistictendency wrote:
Haha thank you for that! I completely agree with you which is why I even considered going to the 2.3. But now I’m having issues with pads rubbing. Has anyone had issues with that using Magura rotors with Trickstuff power for the front and performance race in the back. Both the front and rear are getting noticeably worse since I first noticed it.

I'm giving the mtx braking pads a shot. Gold front, red rear, 203x1.8 rotors. I'll report back once I get them bedded in and give them a few good squeezes pointed down a hill. I'm pretty happy with the current set up. At it's worst power and modulation have both been better than my shimano 4 pistons.
I'm running servo wave levers also. Might try a set on non servo wave off another bike to see what kind of difference it makes.

Posted: Apr 17, 2021 at 9:50 Quote
Hi all, currently walking with my bike back to the car, too annoyed to ride. Just had my third lever spring go in the last 15 months so time for Shimano levers. If I go into my local bike shop what do I need to ask for? I have MT7 pro at the moment. So fed up of these stupid levers. Is it Shimano levers and lines and just the magura calipers or is there more to it than that. Going to get either xtr or xt.

Posted: Apr 17, 2021 at 10:04 Quote
Shimano lever, shimano pin, shimano compression nut and magura olive. Bleed them with bite adjust all the way out.

Never needed a full bleed when fitting shimano levers, fit the shimano bleed cup, fill half with oil, pump the lever untill it's firm and you are done. Take care not to loose to much oil when you disconnect the magura levers though

Posted: Apr 17, 2021 at 10:44 Quote
Thanks for that. Just been reading up on levers. Will saints or 4 pot xtr's be ok? The it's don't have bite point adjust from what I've been reading.

Posted: Apr 17, 2021 at 13:22 Quote
XT has bite point adjust

Posted: Apr 26, 2021 at 6:31 Quote
alexbg wrote:
Hi all, currently walking with my bike back to the car, too annoyed to ride. Just had my third lever spring go in the last 15 months so time for Shimano levers. If I go into my local bike shop what do I need to ask for? I have MT7 pro at the moment. So fed up of these stupid levers. Is it Shimano levers and lines and just the magura calipers or is there more to it than that. Going to get either xtr or xt.

So fun post here. Couldn't get a set of XTR levers for a while so just got a replacement mt7 full brake. Been on two rides and that has done the same thing. XTR's ordered, coming in 6 weeks. What have people done who has GX shifters as a matchmaker? My ks post should be fine the other side I hope.

Posted: Apr 26, 2021 at 8:08 Quote
Wolftooth shiftmounts

Posted: Apr 26, 2021 at 11:57 Quote
adespotoskyli wrote:
All brakes I've used, throw changes with pad wear, the thinner the pads the worst it gets, self adjusting pistons is the goal but rearely the case on bikes as they lack the tech to anticipate the issue.

There is no practical difference between how an open system brake works on a bike vs motorcycle vs car. The issue you're noting almost certainly has everything to do with exhausting the reservoir, which will be more pronounced if you do something custom like putting a higher piston surface area at the caliper than the mc was designed around. There is a good discussion of this (and then some) in the SRAM tech doc here.

You have to remember that brakes are engineered as a system, from mc displacement translating to piston stroke, down to the exact amount of material between the pistons. As soon as you disrupt any of this, you change the equations. Fortunately the math behind brakes is pretty simple and those changes can be anticipated.


 
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