Shigura brakes

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Posted: Oct 26, 2022 at 21:58 Quote
jbrown-15 wrote:
mmarkey21 wrote:
Went Shigura due to lack of replacement levers for my MT7s. Front feels pretty good but cannot get the squish out of my rear. Any recs? I’ve done the bleed as described in this thread, and still not perfect. It firms up after a few squeezes but the initial bite always feels soft so there’s obviously air in there somewhere. Would fluid type have anything to do with it?

Which mineral oil are you using?

Shimano, but I do have some royal blood laying around.

Posted: Oct 27, 2022 at 3:45 Quote
mmarkey21 wrote:
jbrown-15 wrote:
mmarkey21 wrote:
Went Shigura due to lack of replacement levers for my MT7s. Front feels pretty good but cannot get the squish out of my rear. Any recs? I’ve done the bleed as described in this thread, and still not perfect. It firms up after a few squeezes but the initial bite always feels soft so there’s obviously air in there somewhere. Would fluid type have anything to do with it?

Which mineral oil are you using?

Shimano, but I do have some royal blood laying around.

Only use shimano, I put the cup on the brake lever with fluid in and flick the lever, it gets stiffer and stiffer the more I do it, even to the point that I went too far and was too stiff. If that fails then take it to a shop.

Posted: Nov 7, 2022 at 8:28 Quote
Also, it’s pretty eye opening once you get all pistons equally contacting the pads and rotors at the same distance. The bite point is much closer and power is even better. Take the time to make sure that’s happening and you will be satisfied with this setup.

Posted: Dec 7, 2022 at 7:41 Quote
alexbg wrote:
mmarkey21 wrote:
jbrown-15 wrote:


Which mineral oil are you using?

Shimano, but I do have some royal blood laying around.

Only use shimano, I put the cup on the brake lever with fluid in and flick the lever, it gets stiffer and stiffer the more I do it, even to the point that I went too far and was too stiff. If that fails then take it to a shop.

This is what I started doing. I could never get a really good bleed until I just put the cup on the top lever and just worked the lever and watched the air bubbles until no more came out. You end up with a super-solid feel with no squish at all.

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Posted: Dec 12, 2022 at 19:28 Quote
I have a new wbike coming and it has Shimano brakes but I would like to put Magura MT5 calipers on and leave not only the Shimano levers but also the Shimano hose. Why the hose? Its an ebike and the model is a disaster for feeding through new hose for the rear brake (have to pull internal battery and motor if you mess up!) and so I would like to avoid that. Is there a Magura caliper banjo that will fit into the Shimano hose (standard BH90 hose)? Anyone tried that so I can save myself the PIA of pulling the magura hose through?

BTW- What is with the prices people try to get for used Maguras here in the states? I guess that is the price if you dont have 2 weeks of patience to get new ones from Europe for 1/2 the price ;-)

Posted: Dec 15, 2022 at 15:05 Quote
backinmysaddle wrote:

BTW- What is with the prices people try to get for used Maguras here in the states? I guess that is the price if you dont have 2 weeks of patience to get new ones from Europe for 1/2 the price ;-)

Hey now, let's not give away all the secrets :p

You will want to run the Magura hoses with a Shimano olive. I know it is a pain to swap hoses, but you should to get the maximum benefit of the Magura caliper

Posted: Dec 24, 2022 at 1:48 Quote
Any bleeding tips? I'm having a bit of trouble with the rear brakes. The lever feels great, but if I flip the bike upside down for a short while, then flip it back and pull the levers, they feel soft for the first few times when I pull them. That means there is air in there, right?

Here is how I bleed them. Magura syringe + Shimano funnel. Bike is pretty much vertical with the caliper off the frame (internal routing). I put the funnel on the lever with oil in it, push back the pistons, put in the bleed blocks. I connect the syringe to the caliper, and I push and pull fluid a bunch of times. I rotate the caliper in all directons, I tap the caliper, hoses, brake lever, and I pull the lever a few times. After I see no bubbles I leave the funnel on with oil in it, disconnect the syringe from the caliper, and I put in the bleed screw. Then I pull the lever a few times with the funnel still on the levers and the bleed blocks in the caliper. I leave the funnel connected, put in the pads, and I do a "lever bleed" again. I know I kinda overfill the system a bit doing it like this, but I want the shortest possible lever throw.
Anything i'm doing wrong, anything I should do differently?

Even after a good bleed, does the lever feel a bit softer than a full Shimano setup to you guys? It does to me, but i'm not sure if it's because of a bad bleed. With a full Shimano setup, it feels like there is a "stiffer wall" when I pull the levers. With my Shigura setup it's still there, but after I feel the pads contacting the rotor, I still feel a bit of rubbery flexiness. It does feel similar to a full Magura MT5 setup on a friend's bike tho. I can't remember how my stock MT5 setup felt.

Posted: Dec 24, 2022 at 2:57 Quote
HollyBoni wrote:
Any bleeding tips? I'm having a bit of trouble with the rear brakes. The lever feels great, but if I flip the bike upside down for a short while, then flip it back and pull the levers, they feel soft for the first few times when I pull them. That means there is air in there, right?

Here is how I bleed them. Magura syringe + Shimano funnel. Bike is pretty much vertical with the caliper off the frame (internal routing). I put the funnel on the lever with oil in it, push back the pistons, put in the bleed blocks. I connect the syringe to the caliper, and I push and pull fluid a bunch of times. I rotate the caliper in all directons, I tap the caliper, hoses, brake lever, and I pull the lever a few times. After I see no bubbles I leave the funnel on with oil in it, disconnect the syringe from the caliper, and I put in the bleed screw. Then I pull the lever a few times with the funnel still on the levers and the bleed blocks in the caliper. I leave the funnel connected, put in the pads, and I do a "lever bleed" again. I know I kinda overfill the system a bit doing it like this, but I want the shortest possible lever throw.
Anything i'm doing wrong, anything I should do differently?

Even after a good bleed, does the lever feel a bit softer than a full Shimano setup to you guys? It does to me, but i'm not sure if it's because of a bad bleed. With a full Shimano setup, it feels like there is a "stiffer wall" when I pull the levers. With my Shigura setup it's still there, but after I feel the pads contacting the rotor, I still feel a bit of rubbery flexiness. It does feel similar to a full Magura MT5 setup on a friend's bike tho. I can't remember how my stock MT5 setup felt.


I put the funnel on, fill with fluid and then flick the lever and watch the bubbles come out. The more I flick the stiffer it gets. No need to do anything else I have found. You can put the funnel on and leave over night, the bubbles will naturally rise up.

Posted: Dec 24, 2022 at 5:32 Quote
I generally bleed it then put the bike vertical squeze the lever few times until its rock solid then bleed it again. Always some air bubbles comes out

Posted: Dec 24, 2022 at 6:07 Quote
I do a lever bleed every few weeks, and I do it both with the bleed blocks and the pads when I do a full bleed.

Does the Shigura setup feel exactly as solid/stiff as a full Shimano setup to you guys?

Posted: Dec 24, 2022 at 6:21 Quote
Once you get the pistons to actuate equally with the pads in you will notice just how good this setup is. Until that happens they’re just ok IMO.

Went to practice what I’m preaching last night in my shop and ended up accidentally blowing up my right xtr lever. Went to squeeze the lever, after pushing pads back in and inserting maguras yellow bleed blocks in calipers, felt something weird happen in the lever after pulling a few times. Oil started squirting out the back of lever. I guess they are toast. Be mindful of that and take care not to overfill them with fluid. Pissed at myself but kinda think this was inevitable regardless and I’m relieved this happened in the shop and not out on trail.

Posted: Dec 24, 2022 at 6:41 Quote
gspottickles918 wrote:
Once you get the pistons to actuate equally with the pads in you will notice just how good this setup is. Until that happens they’re just ok IMO.

Went to practice what I’m preaching last night in my shop and ended up accidentally blowing up my right xtr lever. Went to squeeze the lever, after pushing pads back in and inserting maguras yellow bleed blocks in calipers, felt something weird happen in the lever after pulling a few times. Oil started squirting out the back of lever. I guess they are toast. Be mindful of that and take care not to overfill them with fluid. Pissed at myself but kinda think this was inevitable regardless and I’m relieved this happened in the shop and not out on trail.

The braking power is massive, when actually riding the bike the brakes feel great, I just find it weird that my setup doesn't feel as "stiff" as full Shimano setups that I try on other people's bikes. And by try, I mean just pull the levers when the bikes are stationary... Smile

Did you blow the membrane in the lever? If yes, that's pretty easy to avoid. Always open up the levers and put on the funnel first before pushing back the pistons. It's a must if you usually do a lever bleed with the pads in, esentially overfilling the system. I don't think you can blow the membrane by just pulling the levers, so it's not something that would happen out on the trail.

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Posted: Dec 24, 2022 at 6:51 Quote
Shiguras, in general, and also full Magura setups will usually have a spongier lever feel compared to a full shimano setup. They don’t lack power but the brake lever doesn’t communicate braking feel as well as shimano.

I’ve heard good things about trp dhr calipers paired with shimano levers. They also use the shimano pad standard which imo is better than magura. Not too crazy about those magnetic pistons either.

I think most people would simply benefit from bigger rotors and high quality pads.

If you think about it; 220mm should be the norm 29er’s if you assume that 200mm was the norm for agressive riding with 26.

Posted: Dec 24, 2022 at 14:04 Quote
@Holly, you mentioned rotating the caliper to free the bubbles, but have you tried varying the angle of the lever? Levers can trap air at certain angles and release it at others.

@gspot, in case you didn't know, Shimano has recently started making the lever diaphragms available separately. Sounds like you can salvage the lever if you source a new diaphragm.

Posted: Dec 24, 2022 at 15:07 Quote
barp wrote:
@Holly, you mentioned rotating the caliper to free the bubbles, but have you tried varying the angle of the lever? Levers can trap air at certain angles and release it at others.

I don't think I did that while I was bleeding with the syringe, but I did rotate the lever when I was doing the lever bleed at the end.


 
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