@Holly, you mentioned rotating the caliper to free the bubbles, but have you tried varying the angle of the lever? Levers can trap air at certain angles and release it at others.
@gspot, in case you didn't know, Shimano has recently started making the lever diaphragms available separately. Sounds like you can salvage the lever if you source a new diaphragm.
Ive looked online for replacement parts for XTR lever and came up with NADA.. Any help with locating that diaphragm would be greatly appreciated!
I went to si.shimano.com and pulled up the EV (exploded view) for a BL-M9100. If that's not the model you're dealing with, use the correct part number in the search field.
The EV shows that the diaphragm itself is part # Y8WM9801T. My Shimano dealer portal doesn't list that part so it's not sold by itself... but they do have a listing for Y1XJ98030, the "diaphragm unit" (includes diaphragm, diaphragm cap, and fixing screw). That one's out of stock on the dealer portal, with an ETA of February.
I found a Singaporean shop, thepmcycles.com, has the diaphragm for sale. No hits for the "diaphragm unit" kit.
If you call Shimano as a dealer, they sometimes have parts available that don't show up on the dealer portal (or will be able to locate substitute part numbers).
Don't know why the guy above has had bad luck with Shigura but there is 17 pages here of almost everyone saying Shiguras are fantastic. Yes you will get more modulation and more power. The two go hand in hand, as more modulation means slower piston speed and more finite control, just like a lever if you increase it's length you get more control and more torque which means more overall power. The other way you can get good modulation is simply by using crap pads, but then you get no power and you are relying on less overall friction meaning the modulation is coming from how hard you pull the lever, this isn't a good idea. Now normally most things have a draw back, if you increase one thing you lose out on another, and if the Shimano levers were conventional levers you would lose initial bite and have more freestroke by changing caliper....however this is mitigated by the fact Shimano levers have servo wave, so the pads quickly contact the rotor with little free stroke, you retain the bite performance but benefit from the increased modulation and more overall power by fitting the Magura caliper. Most of us have not had reliabilty issues with Shigura, I'm sure some people have but that goes for any brake. My Shiguras have been the most reliable and consistent brakes I've owned, unlike a lot of brakes, they are one of the only ones where I have let the bike sit for a while and you don't have to pump the lever to get them ready to go. You can let the bike sit there for months and they will perform exactly the same as when you last ridden provided you did the bleed process correctly to begin with.
Hmm. interesting? I'm experimenting with different 4 piece pads for my MT5 calipers -- now Shigura, XT front, MT-501 rear, while I wait for other XT to arrive is amazing; better feeling lever...trouble free.
I seem to have managed to overheat at 1 short point the Magura 8.R pads on front Galfer 223/2mm rotors going fun blast heavy and modulated powerful, confidence inspiring braking on HAWES Red Mountain Rush, where this Black garly trail, leading to Blue-black to blue you are increasing speed along the whole 2 miles of fantastic trail---- never had any issues with MAGURA, nor bleeding, nor noise, nor setup in 18 months --- easiest - Shimano make it complicated --- AND 4 individual pads with 2 large retaining bolts --- AMAZING ! sure the SLX that came with the Giant Trance X2 - which I have customised for my riding as Mullet, Fox Factory Grip2 and DVO and Hydra XD hub because I HATE CENTERLOCK --- apologies. It just fits my aggressive yet smooth riding and confidence.
Sometimes, you need to just relax, not complain, because all the brakes work well - it's a personal preference; just like seats and tires and pedals.
RELIABLE -- agreed ---lol MAGURA. Overengineeered - just not their levers.
Any bleeding tips? I'm having a bit of trouble with the rear brakes. The lever feels great, but if I flip the bike upside down for a short while, then flip it back and pull the levers, they feel soft for the first few times when I pull them. That means there is air in there, right?
Here is how I bleed them. Magura syringe + Shimano funnel. Bike is pretty much vertical with the caliper off the frame (internal routing). I put the funnel on the lever with oil in it, push back the pistons, put in the bleed blocks. I connect the syringe to the caliper, and I push and pull fluid a bunch of times. I rotate the caliper in all directons, I tap the caliper, hoses, brake lever, and I pull the lever a few times. After I see no bubbles I leave the funnel on with oil in it, disconnect the syringe from the caliper, and I put in the bleed screw. Then I pull the lever a few times with the funnel still on the levers and the bleed blocks in the caliper. I leave the funnel connected, put in the pads, and I do a "lever bleed" again. I know I kinda overfill the system a bit doing it like this, but I want the shortest possible lever throw. Anything i'm doing wrong, anything I should do differently?
Even after a good bleed, does the lever feel a bit softer than a full Shimano setup to you guys? It does to me, but i'm not sure if it's because of a bad bleed. With a full Shimano setup, it feels like there is a "stiffer wall" when I pull the levers. With my Shigura setup it's still there, but after I feel the pads contacting the rotor, I still feel a bit of rubbery flexiness. It does feel similar to a full Magura MT5 setup on a friend's bike tho. I can't remember how my stock MT5 setup felt.
I put the funnel on, fill with fluid and then flick the lever and watch the bubbles come out. The more I flick the stiffer it gets. No need to do anything else I have found. You can put the funnel on and leave over night, the bubbles will naturally rise up.
Sure - wipe removed pads with brake cleaner and pat dry - wear gloves as you don't want skin oils to contaminate -- done that; A gentle 150 grit sanding of pads removed upsidedown in a fig-8 motion - wash -rinse alcohol; push back flush pistons with screw-drive shaft gently; wash and wipe down calipers with alcohol - not the drinking kind ok ...I also do a little top-up of mineral oil with the Shimano cup, flicking the lever gently and watching --- don't foget to block the pistons. See how that works out.
So I think my rear lever is leaking (Deore M6100). Looks like oil is seeping out from the threads of that bolt/nut thingy under the rubber cover. Tried to tighten it more but didn't help. Should I try a new olive and insert?
BTW liking the Galfer purple pads so far. Great power, they feel a bit harder and smoother than the Magura performance pads. Right now they are making some high pitch squeaking noises, but that could be a setup issue etc. I also gave the brakes a beating on some super steep trails the past two rides. Curious to see how long they are going to last. If they last longer than the P pads then i'm sold.
you may have - and don't forget to make the time to really - bed in the pads to rotors --- takes about 10-12 fast runs and braking progressively up to about 70% power - don't come to stop - keep rolling --- I know it is tiring but you'll appreciate the balance -- material from pads need to transfer microscopically to really brake well. Clean rotors with Alcohol before that. Fun. PS: I need to clean and gently sand in fig 8 my MTX red pads as I accidentally contaminated then with brake fluid...
Shiguras, in general, and also full Magura setups will usually have a spongier lever feel compared to a full shimano setup. They don’t lack power but the brake lever doesn’t communicate braking feel as well as shimano.
I’ve heard good things about trp dhr calipers paired with shimano levers. They also use the shimano pad standard which imo is better than magura. Not too crazy about those magnetic pistons either.
I think most people would simply benefit from bigger rotors and high quality pads.
If you think about it; 220mm should be the norm 29er’s if you assume that 200mm was the norm for agressive riding with 26.
Shigurla -- SHIMANO XT levers + MAGURA MT5 calipers + MTX RED or GOLD or EBC + GALFER wave 223/2mm front - 203/2mm rear ----- soon 223/2mm rear. such great modulation/power efforlessly on my Mullet XD Hydra bike in Arizona BLACKS --- 8.R actually overheat yet super powerful pads just not suitable for steep fast twisty downhill runs.
Ok guys. Do Zee levers and mt5's or mt7's mesh well together? Any why get an mt7 over a mt5. is there a reason other then looks? Thanks!
MT5 = MT7 ---- looks cooler because it's anodised not painted. Mechanically and size identical for 1/2 price of MT7.
I use MT5 caliper and they work perfectly but I believe from what I read the difference between MT5 and MT7 isn't only just colour...I think there is a difference with seals or something or MT7 has slightly larger pistons I can't remember..but someone did say there is a small difference internally.
Ok guys. Do Zee levers and mt5's or mt7's mesh well together? Any why get an mt7 over a mt5. is there a reason other then looks? Thanks!
MT5 = MT7 ---- looks cooler because it's anodised not painted. Mechanically and size identical for 1/2 price of MT7.
I use MT5 caliper and they work perfectly but I believe from what I read the difference between MT5 and MT7 isn't only just colour...I think there is a difference with seals or something or MT7 has slightly larger pistons I can't remember..but someone did say there is a small difference internally.
Thanks Danzzz88. There doesn't seem to be any Magura tech info anywhere ?? distinguishing any mechanical differences between MT5 and MT7 -- my MT5 perform amazingly? I had returned MT7 Pro kit, also because seller had removed the 2x BAT adjusters which was clearly in the photo --- and instead ordered and spoke with UBERBIKECOMPONENTS in UK about their Kevlar braided brake line kit with universal Magura and Shimano connectors in Stainlesssteel,,, in green; which they have been selling for 13 years worldwide. BTW both MT5 and MT7 accept split 4 piece 8.P type of longer 9.P type pads - just push back pistons flush with forged caliper housing.
It's so fun tweaking the bike for optimum personal performance -- ok and it looks cool; function first for me. I trust my brakes and Mazza/WTB tires can drop anchor or shed speed consistently here in Arizona. To go faster, one need good brakes.
Shigura with performance pads has tons of modulation, with race pads it’s more on/off feel but still can modulate a bit .
Agreed. I prefer the MTX RED label -- just contaminated 2 kits of pads accidentally with b fluid and will need to clean it --- otherwise yes Magura 8.R pads are amazing powerul yet they sqeak at very slow tech speeds sometimes in Arizona and will overheat on extended high speed braking black trails -- MTX far superior- never does; or will it? --- if you can find them currently lol. Ordered kit of EBC Gold and Galfer E purple to compare on my Galfer rotors.
Even the MTX gold are amazing at modulating your power; just takes a little longer to warm up. Of. course, now that I'm very happy with Shigurfa setup -- whether XT, or surprising great MT501's lever, pad selection front and rear and trail type is something to think about as well as one;s riding style.
Modulation is a little personal and one's skill level and reaction time to consider... my 0.02c
Something weird happened to me the other day… I was carelessly exercising the pistons in my shop without putting the bleed cup on my rear brake. Pushed the pistons in and then went to squeeze the lever, when I did I noticed a weird feeling at the lever like something just “gave way” in the lever immediately after that fluid started shooting out the backend of the lever. Heard this is the diaphragm that can burst if you overfill shimanos. Ordered a new lever but still went out on a ride afterwards. On my ride I noticed the rear brake still worked almost exactly the way it normally does and now it doesn’t even leak anymore even after doing another lever top up. No more leaking and the lever is back to feeling perfect ♂️ wtf is going on?
Something weird happened to me the other day… I was carelessly exercising the pistons in my shop without putting the bleed cup on my rear brake. Pushed the pistons in and then went to squeeze the lever, when I did I noticed a weird feeling at the lever like something just “gave way” in the lever immediately after that fluid started shooting out the backend of the lever. Heard this is the diaphragm that can burst if you overfill shimanos. Ordered a new lever but still went out on a ride afterwards. On my ride I noticed the rear brake still worked almost exactly the way it normally does and now it doesn’t even leak anymore even after doing another lever top up. No more leaking and the lever is back to feeling perfect ♂️ wtf is going on?
Probably just exceeded the pressure limit of the diaphragm and the oil bypassed it though that's just a guess. Maybe it didn't actually rupture anything but I'd replace the lever too just to be on the safe side.
Hello guys, I love my MT7 but when the descents are a bit long I got sore hands.
It’s not that they lack power, but I have to squeeze them a bit hard to access it all. Formula Cura 2 (on a lighter bike actually) didn’t gave me that issue.
Do you think that going the Shigura’s way I could increase the power/decrease fingers’ fatigue?
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