Shigura brakes

Author Message
Posted: Jan 15, 2024 at 9:35 Quote
Hi guys,

Let me leave you with some feedback from my shigura setup:

- Magura Mt7 Calipers, hoses,
- Shimano Deore XT M765 disc brake levers without servowave function for linear to powerful feel
(will try the new M4100 when these get damaged as the 765 are now hard to source)
- Magura MDR-P Rotors


Regarding the issue with oil flowing between interior/exterior hose on Magura hoses and shimano levers:

Just use a Tektro barb instead, the small o'ring prevents this with 100% sucess rate.

photo

The magura Olive is ok..


Cheers!

Posted: Jan 15, 2024 at 10:01 Quote
So using the Tektro barb and olive will prevent leaking at the lever?
pcbsdusr wrote:
Hi guys,

Let me leave you with some feedback from my shigura setup:

- Magura Mt7 Calipers, hoses,
- Shimano Deore XT M765 disc brake levers without servowave function for linear to powerful feel
(will try the new M4100 when these get damaged as the 765 are now hard to source)
- Magura MDR-P Rotors


Regarding the issue with oil flowing between interior/exterior hose on Magura hoses and shimano levers:

Just use a Tektro barb instead, the small o'ring prevents this with 100% sucess rate.

[PI=https://cdn.abacusepos.net/img/davemellor/727dcc10301edf503ab588aa4abb0954e119f930][/PI]

The magura Olive is ok..


Cheers!

Posted: Jan 16, 2024 at 1:43 Quote
Hi @Dowhhilljohn,

Not the barb and olive, only the barb. The olive can be Magura or Shimano, others fit too, I prefer to use Magura's as the inner diameter should be made for the magura hose, helping to prevent the olive to become twisted.


downhilljohn wrote:
So using the Tektro barb and olive will prevent leaking at the lever?
pcbsdusr wrote:
Hi guys,

Let me leave you with some feedback from my shigura setup:

- Magura Mt7 Calipers, hoses,
- Shimano Deore XT M765 disc brake levers without servowave function for linear to powerful feel
(will try the new M4100 when these get damaged as the 765 are now hard to source)
- Magura MDR-P Rotors


Regarding the issue with oil flowing between interior/exterior hose on Magura hoses and shimano levers:

Just use a Tektro barb instead, the small o'ring prevents this with 100% sucess rate.

photo

The magura Olive is ok..


Cheers!

O+
Posted: Jan 24, 2024 at 8:24 Quote
Currently running MTX Red front and back because at the time the gold were not in stock else I would have ran gold front and red rear as most have suggested.

They have held up well lasting about 9 months now and I am getting close to needing to replace however MTX is showing summer of 24 before either the red or golds are back in stock.

What are folks running these days in so far as pads for the shigura set up?

Trickstuff aside from being difficult to find in the US I have also read dont work very well as they are one piece (2 pads) vs the split style (4 pads).

Looking at Disco but their descriptions are not very helpful.

Looking for stopping power primarily with noise being a secondary consideration.

So what are the recommendations?

Posted: Jan 24, 2024 at 10:15 Quote
galfer works well

Posted: Jan 24, 2024 at 10:17 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
galfer works well

Posted: Jan 24, 2024 at 10:55 Quote
Loving the Disco Ceramic Pro pads.

They do wear a little faster than some but they're cheap.

O+
Posted: Jan 25, 2024 at 9:55 Quote
JaxMustang50 wrote:
Loving the Disco Ceramic Pro pads.

They do wear a little faster than some but they're cheap.

So that's what I'm leaning towards but as mentioned their descriptions unlike MTX dosnt really describe the application in the detail I'd like.

Aside from being their most expensive pad are the ceramics considered to be the top tier of their line and suitable for DH use?

Posted: Jan 25, 2024 at 10:12 Quote
I've been happy with the Galfer purple pads. The durability has been impressive so far.

Posted: Jan 28, 2024 at 0:34 Quote
I just noticed that the pistons don't seem to come out on both sides equally. So while the pads can be centered over the disc, the brake caliper itself isn't centered. I think the disc sometimes touches the caliper when I lean the bike over and makes an annoying noise, since the gap between the two is tiny. What am I doing wrong, any ideas for a fix?

photo
photo

Posted: Jan 29, 2024 at 8:50 Quote
HollyBoni wrote:
I just noticed that the pistons don't seem to come out on both sides equally. So while the pads can be centered over the disc, the brake caliper itself isn't centered. I think the disc sometimes touches the caliper when I lean the bike over and makes an annoying noise, since the gap between the two is tiny. What am I doing wrong, any ideas for a fix?

photo
photo

Sounds like you need to manually center the pistons, possibly because one or more of them is/are stuck. Needs to be done on a lot of brakes, and it's always more challenging on a 4-piston one. Reset all of them and give the lever a squeeze while watching the pistons. You may find some of them are moving farther than others. If so, hold back the ones that are moving too far to let the stuck one start moving. After moving the stuck one in and out a few times it should get better, but sometimes you have to help it along by lubing the exposed sides of the piston with some hydraulic fluid. Obviously while keeping the fluid far away from the pads and rotor. With enough fiddling you should be able to get all pistons exposed the exact same amount. Then you center the caliper over the rotor as usual and the brake should feel solid as a rock.

Posted: Jan 29, 2024 at 10:33 Quote
I've tried manually moving the pistions bakc and forth, but I still have the same question, i've found that the extra metal there can easily be removed with an angle grinder. They retail in at about $20 at your local Harbor Freight
barp wrote:
HollyBoni wrote:
I just noticed that the pistons don't seem to come out on both sides equally. So while the pads can be centered over the disc, the brake caliper itself isn't centered. I think the disc sometimes touches the caliper when I lean the bike over and makes an annoying noise, since the gap between the two is tiny. What am I doing wrong, any ideas for a fix?

photo
photo

Sounds like you need to manually center the pistons, possibly because one or more of them is/are stuck. Needs to be done on a lot of brakes, and it's always more challenging on a 4-piston one. Reset all of them and give the lever a squeeze while watching the pistons. You may find some of them are moving farther than others. If so, hold back the ones that are moving too far to let the stuck one start moving. After moving the stuck one in and out a few times it should get better, but sometimes you have to help it along by lubing the exposed sides of the piston with some hydraulic fluid. Obviously while keeping the fluid far away from the pads and rotor. With enough fiddling you should be able to get all pistons exposed the exact same amount. Then you center the caliper over the rotor as usual and the brake should feel solid as a rock.

Posted: Feb 1, 2024 at 9:07 Quote
Thanks, i'll try that.

I think they come out equally front to back, just not side to side.

Posted: Feb 22, 2024 at 8:53 Quote
Any experiences here with using Bionol, trickstuff's brake fluid?

How much of a faff is it to flush shimano or magura mineral oil out of the system with bionol, given it's a lighter viscosity?

Going to start the shigura journey next week, have got M9120 brakes so just bought some MT5 brakes as they're cheap online atm and will pinch the calipers, hose and barb then use shimano for the lever, olive, compression nut and rubber clamp, Sram HS2 rotors 220f/200r, galfer pro green pads (individual pads)

Posted: Feb 22, 2024 at 21:24 Quote
RichGardiner wrote:
Any experiences here with using Bionol, trickstuff's brake fluid?

How much of a faff is it to flush shimano or magura mineral oil out of the system with bionol, given it's a lighter viscosity?


Bionol, Shimano, and Maxima all have the same viscosity (more or less 8.xx@40c). Red Line LikeWater is what you want if you want the lowest viscosity (around 5@40c)


 


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