Dt e 532 rim

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flag 8tom8
Posted: Nov 14, 2020 at 12:09 Quote
Hi. I recently toasted my back rim on my new bike and was thinking the dt Swiss ex511 looks strong and quality after reading reviews but expensive. So has anyone used the cheaper e532 and what is the difference between them. Cheers
flag Xlr8n
Posted: Nov 14, 2020 at 14:37 Quote
The 532 is sleeved rather than welded and uses eyelets rather than nipple washers. It is cheaper to manufacture and build compared to the 511. The 511 is superior, but both make a pretty bulletproof wheel.
flag 8tom8
Posted: Nov 15, 2020 at 2:45 Quote
Xlr8n wrote:
The 532 is sleeved rather than welded and uses eyelets rather than nipple washers. It is cheaper to manufacture and build compared to the 511. The 511 is superior, but both make a pretty bulletproof wheel.
ok thanks I might go for a 511 on the front and a 532 on the rear as they’re abit cheaper to replace. Do you know if eyelets make a run stronger or not ?
flag Danzzz88
Posted: Nov 15, 2020 at 3:09 Quote
I would but some Stans or cheap carbon like Light bicycle. I had ex511's and they were completely out of true and egg shaped after 6 months and I only weigh 74kg and don't do big drops. Ime carbon has been way way better, my rear wheel with lightweight hub weighs nearly 400g less than my ex511 wheel did, it is silent and doesn't make that pinging noise from the spokes every time you hit something, but more importantly it stays true. I'm on Stans carbon rims now and they are way better than 511's especially to setup tubeless, I would look at the Stans Flow over the EX511's given my experience with both brands. The money you will save on an expensive alloy over a cheap carbon like light bicycle you will lose long term in truing and rebuild costs. Say it's £80 for a dt 511 and £130 for a light bicycle, you get the alloys trued only twice and you are already at £110 investment on the alloys that's uf they don't end up warped like mine did from all the square edge hits.
flag 8tom8
Posted: Nov 15, 2020 at 3:10 Quote
Danzzz88 wrote:
I would but some Stans or cheap carbon like Light bicycle. I had ex511's and they were completely out of true and egg shaped after 6 months and I only weigh 74kg and don't do big drops. Ime carbon has been way way better, my rear wheel with lightweight hub weighs nearly 400g less than my ex511 wheel did, it is silent and doesn't make that pinging noise from the spokes every time you hit something, but more importantly it stays true. I'm on Stans carbon rims now and they are way better than 511's especially to setup tubeless, I would look at the Stans Flow over the EX511's given my experience with both brands.
are they 50 quid tho
flag Danzzz88
Posted: Nov 15, 2020 at 3:14 Quote
The money you will save on an expensive alloy over a cheap carbon like light bicycle you will lose long term in truing and rebuild costs. Say it's £80 for a dt 511 and £130 for a light bicycle, you get the alloys trued only twice and you are already at £110 investment on the alloys that's of they don't end up warped like mine did from all the square edge hits.
Like I say if you want to keep your costs low now and want a quality rim with better compliance and easier to setup tubeless I would look at the Stans range of alloy rims over the dtswiss. The dtswiss 511's are heavy and still end up bent and ovalised after twatting a few curbs in the street at speed.
flag 8tom8
Posted: Nov 15, 2020 at 3:32 Quote
Danzzz88 wrote:
The money you will save on an expensive alloy over a cheap carbon like light bicycle you will lose long term in truing and rebuild costs. Say it's £80 for a dt 511 and £130 for a light bicycle, you get the alloys trued only twice and you are already at £110 investment on the alloys that's of they don't end up warped like mine did from all the square edge hits.
Like I say if you want to keep your costs low now and want a quality rim with better compliance and easier to setup tubeless I would look at the Stans range of alloy rims over the dtswiss. The dtswiss 511's are heavy and still end up bent and ovalised after twatting a few curbs in the street at speed.
the rate I go through wheels I’ve given up on expensive ones and just want something reliable
flag Danzzz88
Posted: Nov 15, 2020 at 4:05 Quote
That's what I mean, just get some Stans Flows, cheap than the Dt's, lighter, strong for an alloy rim and will be easier to setup tubeless and less likely to burp if my experience with Stans vs 511s is anything to go by.
flag 8tom8
Posted: Nov 15, 2020 at 5:29 Quote
Danzzz88 wrote:
That's what I mean, just get some Stans Flows, cheap than the Dt's, lighter, strong for an alloy rim and will be easier to setup tubeless and less likely to burp if my experience with Stans vs 511s is anything to go by.
I’ve had a look at them but I heard some people say they split near the spoke nipple has this happened to you?
flag Danzzz88
Posted: Nov 15, 2020 at 6:06 Quote
Well I'm on carbon so I guess it's completely different. I only say try them as they are lighter, cheaper and I have had good luck with the carbon ones and easiest tubeless setup ever. Also I ovalised my ex511's in a matter of months and that is most just smashing curbs in the street not even doing drops at the park so I don't know if the extra weight is worth the extra strength and cost when they still end up out of true and warped within months anyway.
flag Xlr8n
Posted: Nov 15, 2020 at 15:56 Quote
Ooofff wrote:
Xlr8n wrote:
The 532 is sleeved rather than welded and uses eyelets rather than nipple washers. It is cheaper to manufacture and build compared to the 511. The 511 is superior, but both make a pretty bulletproof wheel.
ok thanks I might go for a 511 on the front and a 532 on the rear as they’re abit cheaper to replace. Do you know if eyelets make a run stronger or not ?

That used to be the theory. Now the non-eyeletted DT's use a washer and have no issues and are just as strong.

I'd have no hesistation with either 532's or 511's. They are great wheels. I ran XM481's (no eyelets, welded) along with a set of E1900's (eyelets, sleeved) and regularly hit big drops and senders and never have had an issue and I weigh 230 lbs. Quality of the wheel builder is key. You can buy the best alloy rim made and if you get a halfazz build, they will tweak.
flag 8tom8
Posted: Nov 15, 2020 at 22:55 Quote
Xlr8n wrote:
Ooofff wrote:
Xlr8n wrote:
The 532 is sleeved rather than welded and uses eyelets rather than nipple washers. It is cheaper to manufacture and build compared to the 511. The 511 is superior, but both make a pretty bulletproof wheel.
ok thanks I might go for a 511 on the front and a 532 on the rear as they’re abit cheaper to replace. Do you know if eyelets make a run stronger or not ?

That used to be the theory. Now the non-eyeletted DT's use a washer and have no issues and are just as strong.

I'd have no hesistation with either 532's or 511's. They are great wheels. I ran XM481's (no eyelets, welded) along with a set of E1900's (eyelets, sleeved) and regularly hit big drops and senders and never have had an issue and I weigh 230 lbs. Quality of the wheel builder is key. You can buy the best alloy rim made and if you get a halfazz build, they will tweak.
on my hardtail I run xm481s and they’re pretty good I’ll make sure to take it to the good lbs then and pay a little more
flag chrysanthos
Posted: Nov 16, 2020 at 0:50 Quote
511's are fine. Ran two enduro and one downhill race since getting them in July, they are still running fine.
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