21’ Stumpjumper EVO thoughts

PB Forum :: Specialized
21’ Stumpjumper EVO thoughts
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Posted: Jul 31, 2021 at 10:35 Quote
KSP-PRODUCTIONS wrote:
NateMob wrote:
I took a 30t AB oval off because while in the smaller gears and on the smaller portions of the Chainring, the chain was basically laying on the chainstay. If it works for some all I can think is our terrain and where the chain rides most on the cassette while descending is wildly different.

I'm now on a 32t oval and loving the free speed from stepping up. No problems with NV, UT, WY, or ID trails and bike parks

Did you bought the AB chainguide ? Or kept the oem one ?

I dont run a chainguide at the moment. NW tooth profiles are so good now that i rarely drop a chain. I also replace my chains,chainrings, and derailleurs before they wear out so that probably helps. Originally, I didnt mount the oem guide because I always run a bash guard and didnt want to stack the mounting tabs over each other.

I've also found that as cassette range gets wider its more of a headache to get the chainguide positioned perfectly to not make noise at the ends of the gear range while pedaling, that's only exacerbated by running an oval!

Posted: Jul 31, 2021 at 10:57 Quote
I’m still running the OE one with a 30t AB. It took a little adjusting to get it lined up right but it now works fine.

Posted: Jul 31, 2021 at 15:31 Quote
Edit to my reply, I’m running a 30t not 32t AB with a 1up guide/bashguard. No issues.

Posted: Aug 2, 2021 at 10:41 Quote
Finally received and got the RockGuardz protector installed. I have a S4 and the fit was pretty good. The second photo shows the little gap at the top that doesn't sit completely flush and can get some debris in but its easy enough to take the guard off, clean it out, and throw it back on. I did have to file out the top hole a bit and then get a new nut and washer for the inside of the swat box since the original nut didn't want to tighten down nearly enough.

This in combination with some thick 3M wrap I placed up the entire bottom of the downtube and over the ridewrap I already had on the bike should ease all worries I had about rocks and loose trails.

Rockguardz Installed

Rockguardz Installed

Posted: Aug 2, 2021 at 13:02 Quote
dihanventer wrote:
thought I would share a picture of my finally finished one.

Code RS brakes
Renthal bar and stem
Grip 2 Damper
CC Kitsuma air (lets hope it won't blow up Wink



I am on the kitsuma too. What are your settings?

Posted: Aug 2, 2021 at 13:29 Quote
chxnter wrote:
Finally received and got the RockGuardz protector installed. I have a S4 and the fit was pretty good. The second photo shows the little gap at the top that doesn't sit completely flush and can get some debris in but its easy enough to take the guard off, clean it out, and throw it back on. I did have to file out the top hole a bit and then get a new nut and washer for the inside of the swat box since the original nut didn't want to tighten down nearly enough.

This in combination with some thick 3M wrap I placed up the entire bottom of the downtube and over the ridewrap I already had on the bike should ease all worries I had about rocks and loose trails.

Rockguardz Installed

Rockguardz Installed

Well you sold me on the RockGuardz - just bought one. What specific 3M wrap did you use?

Posted: Aug 3, 2021 at 12:52 Quote
ipedalhard wrote:
Well you sold me on the RockGuardz - just bought one. What specific 3M wrap did you use?

Honestly I'm not sure exactly what I used but the 3M 8671 or standard 3M scotchgard paint protection film will work great

Posted: Aug 3, 2021 at 13:25 Quote
chxnter wrote:
ipedalhard wrote:
Well you sold me on the RockGuardz - just bought one. What specific 3M wrap did you use?

Honestly I'm not sure exactly what I used but the 3M 8671 or standard 3M scotchgard paint protection film will work great

Grab some of this: 3M Scotch Rubber Mastic Electrical Tape 2228

Usually use some on the rear triangle and BB after wrapping the frame.

Posted: Aug 3, 2021 at 14:51 Quote
one from max HSR
one from Softest HSC

3/4 LSC
3/4 LSR

its pretty good , not using full travel , might add small spacer and take out a little pressure.

i do like a poppy progressive feel without sacrificing too much small bump senitivity.

how about yours ?

trafko wrote:
dihanventer wrote:
thought I would share a picture of my finally finished one.

Code RS brakes
Renthal bar and stem
Grip 2 Damper
CC Kitsuma air (lets hope it won't blow up Wink



I am on the kitsuma too. What are your settings?

Posted: Aug 4, 2021 at 11:49 Quote
I've been riding a 21 comp for a few months now coming off a Santa Cruz Nomad V3. I updated the fork to a 36 performance elite but, other than that, it's stock and I'm really pleased with the build and performance with one exception....

Quite a few pages back I saw the downtube cracks and the unbelievably thin down tube wall thickness. Seriously, what would be the explanation for this?? Anyhow, I went out to the garage to check it out firsthand and knocking on the downtube sounds like I'm taping on a hollow egg shell. I happen to still have my Nomad and if I knock on any of the frame tubing it is WAY more solid sounding. I'm pretty uneasy as I have some respectable gouges and chips from rock strikes on my Nomad.

Anyhow, it seems pretty risky to ride these things in areas with the potential for rock strikes without some kind of sacrificial layer on the downtube.

Posted: Aug 4, 2021 at 15:09 Quote
Carbon Fiber is a polymer and is sometimes known as graphite fiber. It is a very strong material that is also very lightweight. Carbon fiber is five-times stronger than steel and twice as stiff. Though carbon fiber is stronger and stiffer than steel, it is lighter than steel; making it the ideal manufacturing material for many parts. These are just a few reasons why carbon fiber is favored by engineers and designers for manufacturing.


Specialized is on top of their game. I’m pretty sure we’re all gonna be ok on SJs. Worst comes to worst we get a new frame.

Posted: Aug 4, 2021 at 15:26 Quote
I hear what you’re saying, but we’ve already seen the frames break there from rock strikes. I’m also not sure but I think you get a crash replacement, not a full warranty claim. AND, it has been taking many months thus far to get a replacement when this happened to my friends StEvo.



kookoos wrote:
Carbon Fiber is a polymer and is sometimes known as graphite fiber. It is a very strong material that is also very lightweight. Carbon fiber is five-times stronger than steel and twice as stiff. Though carbon fiber is stronger and stiffer than steel, it is lighter than steel; making it the ideal manufacturing material for many parts. These are just a few reasons why carbon fiber is favored by engineers and designers for manufacturing.


Specialized is on top of their game. I’m pretty sure we’re all gonna be ok on SJs. Worst comes to worst we get a new frame.

Posted: Aug 4, 2021 at 15:39 Quote
I’ve had some pretty solid rock strikes that have cut through my frame protection, but no visible damage. Adding the front fender does seem to have cut down on the number of rock strikes though, I should have done that earlier, good use of $20.

Posted: Aug 4, 2021 at 15:45 Quote
I ride the shit out of mine on rocky trails and at the bike parks, if something happens it happens. I'm not going to sell it or not ride it because of what i agree is too thin a layup in a often abused area. The Evo rips and there's just not anything else on the market at the moment that checks as many boxes as this one.

Also, just listed a like new cascade link in the classifieds. I can't do the orange.

Posted: Aug 4, 2021 at 20:40 Quote
I also agree, the carbon is thin but I wouldn't trade it for another bike given how versatile and amazing this thing is. I also ride the crap out of my bike - whatever happens, happens. It is a mountain bike of all things.

I've had some massive clunkers come up and smoke my frame above the stock frame guard with no visible damage, so I think that although the carbon is thin, it is well made. Toss a protective wrap on and let it rip.


 
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