2020 Specialized Stumpjumper EVO pro upgrades?

PB Forum :: All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country
2020 Specialized Stumpjumper EVO pro upgrades?
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flag headyadmin
Posted: Dec 30, 2020 at 17:31 Quote
photo

What upgrades should I prioritize from a stock build '20 stumpy EVO pro? So far I just have my regular grips, pedals and tires on order.

current specs:

FRAME: FACT 11m full carbon frame, asymmetrical design, 27.5 style-specific, EVO Trail Geometry, SWATTM Door integration, threaded BB, fully enclosed internal cable routing, 12x148mm dropouts, sealed cartridg bearing pivots, replaceable derailleur hanger, 150mm of travel

REAR SHOCK: FOX DHX2 Performance Elite, Rx Trail Tune, 2-position lever, 210x52.5mm, S2-500lb spring, S3-550lb spring

FORK: FOX FLOAT 36 Performance Elite, GRIP2 damper, 15x110mm, 37mm offset, 150mm of travel

STEM: Specialized Trail, forged alloy, 4-bolt, 5mm rise, 40mm

HANDLEBARS: Specialized, 7050 alloy, 6-degree upsweep, 8-degree backsweep, 27mm rise, 800mm width

GRIPS: Deity, Knuckleduster, Black

FRONT BRAKE: SRAM Code RSC, 4-piston caliper, hydraulic disc, 200mm

REAR BRAKE: SRAM Code RSC, 4-piston caliper, hydraulic disc, 200mm

REAR DERAILLEUR: SRAM GX Eagle, 12-speed

SHIFT LEVERS: SRAM GX Eagle, trigger, 12-speed

CASSETTE: SRAM GX Eagle, 12-speed, 10-50t

CHAIN: SRAM GX Eagle, 12-speed

CRANKSET: SRAM GX Eagle, DUB, 170mm

CHAINRINGS: 32T

BOTTOM BRACKET: SRAM DUB, threaded BB

RIMS: Roval Traverse Carbon 27.5, hookless carbon, 30mm inner width, hand-built, tubeless ready, 28h

FRONT HUB: Specialized, sealed cartridge bearings, 15x110mm spacing, 28h

REAR HUB: DT Swiss 350, Star Ratchet, 36t engagement, SRAM XD driver body, 12mm thru-axle, 148mm spacing, 28h

SPOKES: DT Swiss Industry

FRONT TIRE: Butcher, GRID casing, GRIPTON® compound, 2Bliss Ready, 27.5 x 2.6"

REAR TIRE: Butcher, GRID casing, GRIPTON® compound, 2Bliss Ready, 27.5 x 2.6"

SADDLE: Body Geometry Phenom Expert, hollow titanium rails, carbon fiber base, 143mm

SEATPOST: Command Post IRcc, 16-position micro-height adjustable, two-bolt head, bottom mount cable routing, remote SRL lever, 34.9mm, 160mm of travel
flag mitch1992
O+
Posted: Jan 4, 2021 at 11:57 Quote
Hi,

I have the same bike in NZ. My upgrades/modifications are as follows. For context, I have made these to suit the steeper terrain we have in my local area.

Shock: Removed the black plastic travel spacer. My understanding this shock is actually a typical longer travel version with the black travel limiter installed to decrease the travel to 140mm for this bike. I removed the spring, cycled the bike through its travel to check clearances etc (in both shock positions) and clearance looked fine so just went ahead and cut the black spacer off with some sidecutter pliers. Just be gentle around the shock shaft. Its an easy extra 5mm of travel. To check clearances, just eye through where the shock would bottom out and see where the linkage is in relation to the seattube. Should have good clearance.

Fork: Replaced the 150mm airspring in the fork with a 160mm airspring and shaft. Again easy swap, no other modifications. Also, just stripping down the fork and cleaning away the excess grease and putting fresh oil in does wonders, even on a new bike. They use the airsprings as spoons for the grease in the manufacturing line so chances are you have so much grease it in it blocks the equalization port and acts as a volume spacer as well.

Hub: Rear hub being a DT350 can take the upgraded ratchet kit. They come with a 36t ratchet kit standard which is great and offers a lot more engagement than typical 18t hubs. You can further upgrade the 36t to a 54t ratchet kit. DT Swiss make this upgrade kit. Quite pricey but comes with two ratchets (you need a pair to upgrade) new springs and a little tub of grease. 5 minute job to swap out and the result is better pedal engagement and a louder buzz when freewheeling if your that way inclined. Note there are cheaper options from China (ZTTO 54t upgrade kit) which from my limited research does the same thing however the ratchets are steel as opposed to alloy. Way cheaper option but there is a risk associated with cheaper parts. There are threads on various MTB forums about it and people say they have experienced no problems.

Cushcore: I made a DIY cushcore out of some heated spa pool foam, the stuff they use for the insulation of the spa pool I'm guessing? Looks exactly the same as the cushcore foam, even the same color and feel. I just got some offcuts from a local rubber supplies store for $30 and they cut it to whatever width I wanted on a band saw. Then I just cut the corners off so it would fit in the rim and cabletied it together to create a ring and voilà, I have something that looks like a cushcore and in theory should work the same for a fraction of the price! At the end of the day its a barrier between the rim and tire so the difference between a legit one and my DIY cant be that massive. In terms of the valves, I have the standard ones installed still. I just cut a notch in the cushcore where the valve comes through the rim. That way the air can get in. I also drilled some holes in the foam as well so air can pass between if for some reason the foam creates two air pockets in the tyre. Makes the bike feel less chattery and I think I can get away with lower pressures.

Stem: I put the shortest Renthal stem I could get, 31mm I believe. This is personal preference but I find the attitude of this bike lends itself to shorter stems etc.

Pro tip: if you haven't tested it already, its ridiculous how much stuff you can fit inside the downtube of this bike. I have a relatively large first aid kit, tools, tube, CO2, cable ties etc, rolled up rain jacket, inhaler and snacks. Its all extra weight but so good to have it inside your bike. That way the only way you will forget it is if you forget your bike (you would be amazed at the people I know who have actually done this).

Future upgrades: I'm looking into progressive spring options for the coil shock. These bikes aren't overly progressive by design. Not a big deal but you sometimes notice it. Few options out there, tricky bit is finding adapters for the DHX2 to make MRP or DVO springs fit. Haven't got far with this yet. There is the Cascade Components link the helps with this and gives more travel but expensive to get in the southern hemisphere.

So that's my upgrades. In hindsight, I probably should have got the Enduro as I guess I'm trying to turn the SJ into one of sorts by increasing travel etc. Nevertheless, these bikes are amazingly capable and defiantly blur the lines between trail and Enduro IMO.

I guess the starting question is work out what riding you want to do with the bike, what terrain you have etc. Then work from there on what mods you do. Cushcore etc may be pointless if your not riding hard trails.
flag Michael-co
Posted: Jan 5, 2021 at 17:48 Quote
Would be cool if you added a red marzocchi fork
flag headyadmin
Posted: Jan 5, 2021 at 19:39 Quote
Thanks for this epic reply.

MitchNapier wrote:
Hi,

I have the same bike in NZ. My upgrades/modifications are as follows. For context, I have made these to suit the steeper terrain we have in my local area.

Shock: Removed the black plastic travel spacer. My understanding this shock is actually a typical longer travel version with the black travel limiter installed to decrease the travel to 140mm for this bike. I removed the spring, cycled the bike through its travel to check clearances etc (in both shock positions) and clearance looked fine so just went ahead and cut the black spacer off with some sidecutter pliers. Just be gentle around the shock shaft. Its an easy extra 5mm of travel. To check clearances, just eye through where the shock would bottom out and see where the linkage is in relation to the seattube. Should have good clearance.

Fork: Replaced the 150mm airspring in the fork with a 160mm airspring and shaft. Again easy swap, no other modifications. Also, just stripping down the fork and cleaning away the excess grease and putting fresh oil in does wonders, even on a new bike. They use the airsprings as spoons for the grease in the manufacturing line so chances are you have so much grease it in it blocks the equalization port and acts as a volume spacer as well.

Hub: Rear hub being a DT350 can take the upgraded ratchet kit. They come with a 36t ratchet kit standard which is great and offers a lot more engagement than typical 18t hubs. You can further upgrade the 36t to a 54t ratchet kit. DT Swiss make this upgrade kit. Quite pricey but comes with two ratchets (you need a pair to upgrade) new springs and a little tub of grease. 5 minute job to swap out and the result is better pedal engagement and a louder buzz when freewheeling if your that way inclined. Note there are cheaper options from China (ZTTO 54t upgrade kit) which from my limited research does the same thing however the ratchets are steel as opposed to alloy. Way cheaper option but there is a risk associated with cheaper parts. There are threads on various MTB forums about it and people say they have experienced no problems.

Cushcore: I made a DIY cushcore out of some heated spa pool foam, the stuff they use for the insulation of the spa pool I'm guessing? Looks exactly the same as the cushcore foam, even the same color and feel. I just got some offcuts from a local rubber supplies store for $30 and they cut it to whatever width I wanted on a band saw. Then I just cut the corners off so it would fit in the rim and cabletied it together to create a ring and voilà, I have something that looks like a cushcore and in theory should work the same for a fraction of the price! At the end of the day its a barrier between the rim and tire so the difference between a legit one and my DIY cant be that massive. In terms of the valves, I have the standard ones installed still. I just cut a notch in the cushcore where the valve comes through the rim. That way the air can get in. I also drilled some holes in the foam as well so air can pass between if for some reason the foam creates two air pockets in the tyre. Makes the bike feel less chattery and I think I can get away with lower pressures.

Stem: I put the shortest Renthal stem I could get, 31mm I believe. This is personal preference but I find the attitude of this bike lends itself to shorter stems etc.

Pro tip: if you haven't tested it already, its ridiculous how much stuff you can fit inside the downtube of this bike. I have a relatively large first aid kit, tools, tube, CO2, cable ties etc, rolled up rain jacket, inhaler and snacks. Its all extra weight but so good to have it inside your bike. That way the only way you will forget it is if you forget your bike (you would be amazed at the people I know who have actually done this).

Future upgrades: I'm looking into progressive spring options for the coil shock. These bikes aren't overly progressive by design. Not a big deal but you sometimes notice it. Few options out there, tricky bit is finding adapters for the DHX2 to make MRP or DVO springs fit. Haven't got far with this yet. There is the Cascade Components link the helps with this and gives more travel but expensive to get in the southern hemisphere.

So that's my upgrades. In hindsight, I probably should have got the Enduro as I guess I'm trying to turn the SJ into one of sorts by increasing travel etc. Nevertheless, these bikes are amazingly capable and defiantly blur the lines between trail and Enduro IMO.

I guess the starting question is work out what riding you want to do with the bike, what terrain you have etc. Then work from there on what mods you do. Cushcore etc may be pointless if your not riding hard trails.
flag mitch1992
O+
Posted: Jan 6, 2021 at 10:37 Quote
No worries, bit of a novel but I guess I like talking about my bike
flag ricochetrabbit
Posted: Jan 6, 2021 at 16:05 Quote
Michael-co wrote:
Would be cool if you added a red marzocchi fork
*orange fox factory fork

Fixed it for ya
flag Michael-co
Posted: Jan 6, 2021 at 17:59 Quote
Orange would be ugly. Unless you did a Sam pilgrim and rattle caned your fork.
flag UDaManFunks
O+
Posted: Jan 6, 2021 at 20:26 Quote
Michael-co wrote:
Would be cool if you added a red marzocchi fork

photo
flag ricochetrabbit
Posted: Jan 7, 2021 at 1:38 Quote
UDaManFunks wrote:
Michael-co wrote:
Would be cool if you added a red marzocchi fork

photo

Wack
flag ricochetrabbit
Posted: Jan 7, 2021 at 1:38 Quote
Michael-co wrote:
Orange would be ugly. Unless you did a Sam pilgrim and rattle caned your fork.

Why rattle can it? Just buy a orange fox factory fork
flag Michael-co
Posted: Jan 7, 2021 at 5:25 Quote
The orange is ugly it looks like a pumpkin. But fox and marzocchi are pretty much the same thing.
flag JeCo07
Posted: Feb 14, 2021 at 12:56 Quote
I just recently purchased the exact same bike. I plan on doing the following upgrades.

Whiskey No. 9 carbon bars
Deity Cooperhead 30mm stem
165mm crank arms
Cascade Link
One up or wolf tooth dropper remote

I’ve already put an Vitoria Air Liner insert in the rear wheel and was planning on putting different tires but so far in the dry loose dirt where I’m at the butchers have felt great.
flag mitch1992
O+
Posted: Feb 14, 2021 at 15:27 Quote
JeCo07 wrote:
I just recently purchased the exact same bike. I plan on doing the following upgrades.

Whiskey No. 9 carbon bars
Deity Cooperhead 30mm stem
165mm crank arms
Cascade Link
One up or wolf tooth dropper remote

I’ve already put an Vitoria Air Liner insert in the rear wheel and was planning on putting different tires but so far in the dry loose dirt where I’m at the butchers have felt great.

What size frame did you get? I have a S3 and it came with GX 165mm cranks. I'm in NZ so I don't know if they have different component specs for different countries. Looking at all of the spec sheets for the 2019 & 2020 models, supposed to have 170mm. Perhaps someone in the shop mixed them up to my benefit. They have a measurement embossed on the back side of crank arm. Yours might have 165mm ones already! If they don't, good upgrade as pedal strikes are a bit of an issue with 165mm let alone 170mm.
flag iliveonnitro
Posted: Feb 15, 2021 at 11:27 Quote
I got to demo an EVO for several hours yesterday. The dropper post is garbage and absolutely needs to be replaced. Everything else on the bike is really nice.

I would encourage swapping the Code brakes for something better -- TRP or Magura. You'll suffer less arm pump, especially on rocky descents or over brake bumps.
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