SRAM Code R bite point adjust

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SRAM Code R bite point adjust
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flag timotheysski
Posted: Jan 14, 2021 at 8:07 Quote
Hey pinkbikers,

I recently got a new enduro bike which I'm really happy about, a Trek Slash 8. It comes stock with Code R brakes which are really consistent and perform really well. I've tuned them to my liking but I'd like to change the bite point (it's too close to the bars for my liking). They don't have the "Contact Point Adjust" since that's reserved to RSC. In the videos I watched, it said this is a tool-free way of adjusting bite point, but that implies there is a tool way. However, I didn't find anything about that.
Anyone know the method to do that or got a trick to do the same thing (I tried overfilling my brakes a tiny bit but it didn't work at all I was either rubbing or same as before)?

Thanks for any help you can provide!
flag Reaperactual
Posted: Jan 18, 2021 at 12:29 Quote
Hey Pal. Maybe the vids you watched are showing tool or tool free reach adjust rather than contact point/freestroke adjust?
flag timotheysski
Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 7:44 Quote
Reaperactual wrote:
Hey Pal. Maybe the vids you watched are showing tool or tool free reach adjust rather than contact point/freestroke adjust?

nah, it's bite point, what sram calls contact point
flag parkourfan
Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 9:55 Quote
Overfilling, pressurizing, or advancing the pads all refer to slightly pressurizing the system to make the brake engage more quickly. You need a dead straight rotor, smoothly engaging pistons (no stick) and some experience with the system to pull it off.

With code r's especially, advancing the pads will often have an adverse effect on reliability in the long run...they'll start pumping up and feeling like shit once there's some air in there.

A good bleed (with *fresh* fluid) front and rear, with maybe a hair extra fluid in the rear to even things out, and that'll be about as good as you can get without having it be an issue.

You can also pony up the $$$ for some code RSC levers down the road. Contact point adjust is incredibly useful on SRAM brakes and works quite well. And, I bet some park rider who's smashed their code r's into a tree will be happy to buy the old levers off of you on the buy/sell.
flag RealtorTechGuy
O+
Posted: Aug 19, 2022 at 22:28 Quote
Interesting you say the contact adjustment is useful. I along with many others in various posts seem to be having issue. As I turn the contact in the lever pull gets closer to the bar. As it gets closer there is loss in power. Yes I underatand the contact adjustment is not for power it is for bite point. But the bite point gets very close to the bar to the point that I cannot pull the lever enoght to get stopping power. The concept of this adjustment does not seem to make sense??
flag Reaperactual
Posted: Aug 20, 2022 at 3:52 Quote
Can't speak about Sram brakes specifically but I imagine it works a similar way to my Shimano's.

Adjusting bite point to minimum stroke advances the master cylinder piston and in turn the lever moves closer to the bar at the same time. Afterwards it's just a matter of returning the lever to the original/prefered outwards position using the reach adjustment.
flag ethanrevitch
FL
Posted: Aug 18, 2023 at 18:35 Quote
timotheysski wrote:
Hey pinkbikers,

I recently got a new enduro bike which I'm really happy about, a Trek Slash 8. It comes stock with Code R brakes which are really consistent and perform really well. I've tuned them to my liking but I'd like to change the bite point (it's too close to the bars for my liking). They don't have the "Contact Point Adjust" since that's reserved to RSC. In the videos I watched, it said this is a tool-free way of adjusting bite point, but that implies there is a tool way. However, I didn't find anything about that.
Anyone know the method to do that or got a trick to do the same thing (I tried overfilling my brakes a tiny bit but it didn't work at all I was either rubbing or same as before)?

Thanks for any help you can provide!
Ok so there is technically a “bite point adjust” on Code R its a T8 (I’m pretty sure) right on the inside of the lever blade. Disclaimer I wouldn’t use if because it’s technically loosing your lever blade and I’ve had it work it’s way out leaving your brake without a screw in some cases.
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