29er enduro wheelset under 900usd

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29er enduro wheelset under 900usd
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Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 6:00 Quote
Looking to upgrade the race face AR30/dt370 wheelset on my Hightower LT to something a bit more burley. I've dented and bent the rear wheel a few times so its on its last leg. I am looking for a full wheelset that is at least a bit stronger and has a faster engaging rear hub. I've been looking at the I9 enduro s wheelset with the 1/1 hubs or having a stans/hope hub wheelset built. Not too concerned about weight as I rather have a strong wheelset then save a few grams.

Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 6:24 Quote
fourfourone wrote:
Looking to upgrade the race face AR30/dt370 wheelset on my Hightower LT to something a bit more burley. I've dented and bent the rear wheel a few times so its on its last leg. I am looking for a full wheelset that is at least a bit stronger and has a faster engaging rear hub. I've been looking at the I9 enduro s wheelset with the 1/1 hubs or having a stans/hope hub wheelset built. Not too concerned about weight as I rather have a strong wheelset then save a few grams.
.

Carbon tends to be stiffer and stronger imo but is outside your budget unless you went for some light bicycle rims etc...

If you just want some strong bombproof alloy consider dt swiss ex511 built on Hope hubs.. they are about as strong an alloy rim as you can get though I will say after owning them they still can go out of true after hard hits which my current carbon ones do not.. as for faster engagement my previous wheelset built on ex511 had Onyx hubs, silent and instant but not worth the weight penalty, reliability problems and no straight pull option... My current Carbon Ti hubs are only 56t in comparison but weigh less than half as much, spin better and seem of overall higher quality....after having tried the fastest engaging hubs you can buy I can say yea you can notice it, but only some of the time if you are actively paying attention to it...most of the time you ride a bicycle when you stop pedalling you still tend to rock the cranks forwards so it's not like you have to overcome the full amount of degrees rotation before engagement, in practice a 56t hub is not a problem and is barely noticed compared to an instant egagement hub. Yes there is no clunk at all when applying power to instant engagement or very fast hubs like the Industry 9's but what I will say is theoretically they are still not 'instant engagement'...If the hub is rotating faster than you are pedalling then you still need to play catch up to match or exceed your leg speed to the wheel speed, only difference with instant engagement is you can't feel any clunky transition.

Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 7:15 Quote
I have dented my fair share of wheels even with inserts lol. Hunt AM carbon wheelset is $769 and they have a great warranty. You could also get a hand built wheelset in your budget with really nice hubs and hoops. Going with EX 511 rim with 350 hubs would be a great reliable set. Sun Ringle SD37 are another set that look great with high engagement hubs.

I had a custom built set of Flow MK3/EX3 on Bitex hubs for under $400 that were very reliable.

Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 9:08 Quote
EX 471 or 511 on hubs of your choice would be the default mid budget. I'm also interested in trying the Hunt Endurowides on my next build, but no experience with them yet.

Its really too bad We Are One stopped pricing sub 1k as with the Agents and Insiders. I'd have spent thousands more with them by now and have their wheels on all of my bikes if they hadn't bumped the price so significantly.

Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 9:19 Quote
Hunts do look decent value for money though they aren't very light at around 1850g for a carbon wheelset 28mm internal though, considering my custom built 27mm internal wheelset weighs 1450g and I got parts on offer and built them for less than a grand. Not to mention import postage and tax to USA / Canada etc is gonna put the price up anyway.

Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 9:23 Quote
I'm not opposed to carbon wheels but being a northeast rider, a lot of our trails are rocky and loose. My rear when gets dinged by rocks all the time. My bike only has 1 season on it but the rear wheel looks like it went through a war.

Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 9:51 Quote
fourfourone wrote:
I'm not opposed to carbon wheels but being a northeast rider, a lot of our trails are rocky and loose. My rear when gets dinged by rocks all the time. My bike only has 1 season on it but the rear wheel looks like it went through a war.

The enduro S are quite good. Stan's flows - regardless of generation - will take some time in the truing stand to keep them up, that's just how they are. Hunts have been widely lauded in reviews, but I have no personal ride time on them.

For alloy sets - DT EX1700 with a 54t ratchet upgrade would be my pick for a beater set that you legitimately don't have to worry about. Regrease that star ratchet (frequently) and get the hubs relaced to new hoops after a few seasons of smashing. Bombproof, reliable hubs (350's), very solid rims, decent spokes, and good QC on those. I personally run 240 and 350 hubs because I know they'll go the distance without having issues. Side note, 370's are complete and utter garbage compared to a 350 with an upgraded ratchet. I've seen so, so many of those 370's fail for all kinds of reasons.

Also, surprised nobody's mentioned tire inserts as an option to help you stop dinging those rims so much. Alternatively/in addition, a heavier casing (especially in the rear) will do wonders to stop destroying wheels quite so quickly. Double down with a light insert - cushcore XC or tannus tubless - would get rid of most rim strikes. EXO+ or similar with a light insert can often be gotten away with as well, unless you're a straight up plow style rider.

I haven't seen carbon wheels in our area be destroyed from *only* dings/side impacts under 'normal' riding except for deep dish wheels used in CX. If you could stretch your budget to WAO or get hooked up with some Enve AM30's (lifetime riding replacement+lifetime anything goes replacement) you might be pretty happy with having to do less maintenance and a stiffer wheel. A lower-profile wheel like the Enve's is often better in terms of those rock dings compared to boxier rims like the WAO, stock giant/bontrager/roval sets. I still haven't trashed a carbon wheelset yet, where I was definitely dinging up, putting flat spots in, and generally having to do much more maintenance on any of the aluminum sets I've run in the past. Yes, there's some superficial scuffs and scrapes, but nothing too horrible. By the time you're spending $$ on aluminum wheels, spending $$$ on carbon is often a good value - as far as those things go.

Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 10:08 Quote
it seems most of my damage are from external hits to the wheel. That's why I worry about carbon.
I do have a few flat spots as well. I have thought about inserts. I run a maxxis DHR 2.4 in the back 24 psi(im 180 pounds)

Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 10:11 Quote
it seems most of my damage are from external hits to the wheel. That's why I worry about carbon.
I do have a few flat spots as well. I have thought about inserts. I run a maxxis DHR 2.4 in the back 24 psi(i'm 180 pounds)

I'd be down for inserts but I tend to wear through rear tires pretty quick and it seems inserts are a pain in the ass to mount.

Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 10:19 Quote
fourfourone wrote:
it seems most of my damage are from external hits to the wheel. That's why I worry about carbon.
I do have a few flat spots as well. I have thought about inserts. I run a maxxis DHR 2.4 in the back 24 psi(i'm 180 pounds)

I'd be down for inserts but I tend to wear through rear tires pretty quick and it seems inserts are a pain in the ass to mount.

On a stretched out tire (i.e. one that's been mounted at max psi for a few days) a tannus insert will slot right in and add maybe a few minutes of time. Cushcore, not so much since that's solidly pressed to the rim. I'd give that a shot for sure. If you don't like inserts, going up to a DH casing on that DHR2 will add similar weight, though lots of that would be slice resistance to the carcass and wouldn't provide the same protection against rim strikes.

If you have a carbon wheel with an unlimited warranty - at the first sign of a breaking-down of the fibers found via a tap test, throw them back for warranty and put your current beater wheel back on for a little bit. This really shouldn't happen often, even with the amount of spiky rocks there are locally.

Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 10:38 Quote
fourfourone wrote:
it seems most of my damage are from external hits to the wheel. That's why I worry about carbon.
I do have a few flat spots as well. I have thought about inserts. I run a maxxis DHR 2.4 in the back 24 psi(i'm 180 pounds)

I'd be down for inserts but I tend to wear through rear tires pretty quick and it seems inserts are a pain in the ass to mount.

Good carbon will shrug of hits better than alloy, period. WR1 and Reynolds MR5 in my experience so far are pretty much indestructible. In fact, I've never broken a carbon rim but I must be more than half way to triple digits in dented, taco'd, and folded alloy hoops.

That said, if you like good looking rims, its obviously cheaper to cycle alloy out. Tough pill to swallow when your perfectly functional $900 carbon wheels look like you took a ride through a field of knives.

Posted: Jan 21, 2021 at 10:49 Quote
What I like mist about carbon is not if they are more durable or not, but the fact they keep their new build performance for much longer..all alloy rims even the syrong dt swiss ones go out of true in no time after a few hard square edge hits and only gets worse over time making the rim egg shaped. Carbon rims stay round period and stay true for much much longer. Oerformance wise other than that I can't tell much difference, the carbon hoops seems more jeen to change direction and not deflect off stuff but also seem a bit harsher and less compliant over chatter....basically when it comes to rims the polar opposite of what carbon bars do over alloy ones.

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