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Installed the cascade lower guide. There isn’t any noticeable drag anymore… much nicer to pedal around and climb. Time will tell if the chain hops off or not. I’ve had mine hop off twice on the LG1 but also hit it a few times, causing it to bend and rub the rear tire. Not cheap but definitely an upgrade
I did the same. Curious, how many links did you need to take out of the chain?
I will say wait to see what forbidden have in the works for the dh team with their custom link. Will probably be cheaper than cascade, wont void warranty and most likely will fit coil shock.
Their link (+other changes) nets them 180mm travel. I was told no plans to release the link to the public as a number of other changes are needed to get that. Didnt say what the other changes were, but Im guessing a modified ziggy and probably offset bushings or something of that ilk.
Being able to get more travel out of my dread while keeping my RS SD coil would be fantastic but sounds like its never going to happen
Where did you get this information? Fearon supposedly was riding stock 154mm at the AUS National.
None so far. I began with a 28t oval chainring, switched to 30t round, and now have the pulley removed. All seem to work ok with the same amount of links.
TW138 wrote:
spendtimebehindbars wrote:
Installed the cascade lower guide. There isn’t any noticeable drag anymore… much nicer to pedal around and climb. Time will tell if the chain hops off or not. I’ve had mine hop off twice on the LG1 but also hit it a few times, causing it to bend and rub the rear tire. Not cheap but definitely an upgrade
I did the same. Curious, how many links did you need to take out of the chain?
Installed the cascade lower guide. There isn’t any noticeable drag anymore… much nicer to pedal around and climb. Time will tell if the chain hops off or not. I’ve had mine hop off twice on the LG1 but also hit it a few times, causing it to bend and rub the rear tire. Not cheap but definitely an upgrade
I did the same. Curious, how many links did you need to take out of the chain?
I took 4 links out of my chain after swapping the e13 guide for the Cascade guide
Just completed this build. Was a lot of fun! (Also really liking the Cascade Bash Guide).
I have seen quite a few Dreadnought riders removing the OEM e13 chainguide with roller in favor other chainguides without a roller (to reduce drag apparently). Don't you guys worry the chain is much lower now and more prone to getting off, having chain slap or catching any trail debris since it sits much lower now? Also why wouldn't Forbidden just put a simpler chain-guide in the first place, if the bike can work fine without one with a roller?
Not hating, just try to understand the reasoning behind it. I still have the e13 OEM chainguide on my medium Dreadnought, and with proper cleaning/lube after each ride the drag is barely noticeable (or I've just gotten used to it and ignore it, after 6 months)
@tp806, I haven’t even tried the stock e13 guide, so I can’t speak to drag. I bought and installed the Cascade Components bash guide for 3 reasons though.
1. Designed and made close to home. (Theme for bike build) 2. Accomplishes the goal of ensuring the chain stays in contact with required amount of chainring teeth. (Designed to never chain drop) 3. Designed to help reduce drag from roller style guides. (Can’t speak to this but I hear it’s true).
Is there chain slap? Yes, but I don’t really notice it while riding. The way I built the bike up makes it really quiet. The only noise is from the chain slap and the hub. Not too bad.
The other thing I like but didn’t realize would occur. I can run only 1 full chain (128 links) with a size medium frame. No need for extra links.
Hope that helps answer why people might swap stock e13 for the Cascade Components product.
@tp806, I haven’t even tried the stock e13 guide, so I can’t speak to drag. I bought and installed the Cascade Components bash guide for 3 reasons though.
1. Designed and made close to home. (Theme for bike build) 2. Accomplishes the goal of ensuring the chain stays in contact with required amount of chainring teeth. (Designed to never chain drop) 3. Designed to help reduce drag from roller style guides. (Can’t speak to this but I hear it’s true).
Is there chain slap? Yes, but I don’t really notice it while riding. The way I built the bike up makes it really quiet. The only noise is from the chain slap and the hub. Not too bad.
The other thing I like but didn’t realize would occur. I can run only 1 full chain (128 links) with a size medium frame. No need for extra links.
Hope that helps answer why people might swap stock e13 for the Cascade Components product.
I want to add to this. I did a full summer on the E13 and do agree with OP that with maintenance, drag is reduced. In my opinion the drag is considerably reduced with Cascade versus a maintained E13. @JKinger, I value more locally made products as well. So, it was another motivating factor to switch.
I also have a different motivation and will admit it is likely a rare occurrence. I was riding in the promise land(whistler) last September, was wet and rainy which caused me to get off balance heading up the face of a jump on Dirt Merchant (lack of skill has nothing to do with it guys ). When I landed my right foot blew off and got sucked under the bike. My leg pushed the arm on the E13 guide into the tire. Totally a weird scenario but it t had me question the value of the arm when considering impacts and how it could move into the tire.
Anyone know of an alternative to buying fox’s $140 tool to remove the shock eyelet hardware? I saw a video on YouTube of a guy clamping them out with a wooden vice but not keen on doing that with a coil shock. Suspensionwerx said it’s possible to hammer them out with something made of softer metal. Not too keen on that either…
Anyone know of an alternative to buying fox’s $140 tool to remove the shock eyelet hardware? I saw a video on YouTube of a guy clamping them out with a wooden vice but not keen on doing that with a coil shock. Suspensionwerx said it’s possible to hammer them out with something made of softer metal. Not too keen on that either…
a slide hammer is what i use and lots of bike shops use them. its an automotive tool. cheers
In regards to the chain drag...... I think someone needs to try an idler pully that isn't narrow wide. I've owned had a Dread and am now on a 3lb heavier Norco Range which is a lot easier to pedal. There was a period of time when I owned a Dread and the Range and I compared them against each other. I compared them as equals with the same parts spec and the Cascade lower guide installed on the Dread which helps with the drag. However to my surprise the Range was a better climber overall which doesn't really make sense to me being that the Range was 2.5 to 3 lbs heavier. This extra weight should add up and tax me more than the lighter Dread , at least I would have though so?
I figure the Range has less drag because the idler wheel is not narrow wide and therefore possibly has less drag . I wish I would have noticed this when I was still a Dread owner as would have machined down the wide teeth to give it a try.
I hope someone decides to try this and reports back.
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). When I landed my right foot blew off and got sucked under the bike. My leg pushed the arm on the E13 guide into the tire. Totally a weird scenario but it t had me question the value of the arm when considering impacts and how it could move into the tire. 
