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There's no way that this rear wheel is strong enough to take the abuse regular eMTBs can with regular & stronger rear wheels.
I would not consider this an eMTB as it's being powered by continuous power with a throttle and would get refused at pretty much any trail center.
You can basically ride this with 0 pedal input, it's really more of an electric MX.
You seem to know a lot about it from this one picture. Please tell me more
I'll bite, because now I'm curious. Doesn't look like it has a dropper post, and it doesn't have gears. What's the thumb paddle for if not a throttle?
The 2 issues I see with the wheel build is radial lacing instead of cross, and the use of alloy nipples. I've built a small stack of this style of wheel for customers, usually for commuter recumbents. Never did one radial laced because the weight penalty of a 1 cross was negligible anyway. And while I occasionally use alloy nipples on personal builds because I love colors, they do have a tendency to seize, break, and get awful wear marks. Usually all of the above.
It wouldn't be welcome anywhere I currently ride since it's basically an e-moped because of the throttle, but looks like it'd be huge fun in the right place.
There's no way that this rear wheel is strong enough to take the abuse regular eMTBs can with regular & stronger rear wheels.
I would not consider this an eMTB as it's being powered by continuous power with a throttle and would get refused at pretty much any trail center.
You can basically ride this with 0 pedal input, it's really more of an electric MX.
You seem to know a lot about it from this one picture. Please tell me more
I'll bite, because now I'm curious. Doesn't look like it has a dropper post, and it doesn't have gears. What's the thumb paddle for if not a throttle?
The 2 issues I see with the wheel build is radial lacing instead of cross, and the use of alloy nipples. I've built a small stack of this style of wheel for customers, usually for commuter recumbents. Never did one radial laced because the weight penalty of a 1 cross was negligible anyway. And while I occasionally use alloy nipples on personal builds because I love colors, they do have a tendency to seize, break, and get awful wear marks. Usually all of the above.
It wouldn't be welcome anywhere I currently ride since it's basically an e-moped because of the throttle, but looks like it'd be huge fun in the right place.
The thumb control has 6 toggle positions for 3 different levels of assist in 2 different modes; it is not a throttle. I have to pedal and depending which position it's in the power will feed in based on either pedal speed or torque. I used to have a normal throttle but this was initially only for testing the battery and setting up the motor controller. I also used to have a button next to the left grip for regen braking but removed this as it would sometimes short out in heavy rain so I would lose assist. Every system on the bike is fail-safe, if/when I fell off the cables to the battery disconnect as soon as my hand comes off the bar etc.
I originally had a traditional 'throttle' with proportional torque control (not speed/voltage control, like most of the conversion kits have). The bike has a PAS, so what rick26 said earlier regarding it being an e-MX was wrong, as were some of his other assumptions. The PAS is a legal requirement by law here, otherwise it counts as an MX/moped. Also, even when it was like this I was let into bike parks with no issues.
Your point about wheel lacing is correct, I had a few problems with this and working out spoke lengths initially, and the first wheel I built used a different rim (a Halo T2 36 spoke). In the end I had to use radial lacing with no crossing because otherwise the spoke angles didn't work out. Even using 1 cross the angle was too small and I was worried the nipples weren't seating properly. There is also about 20mm of dish on the wheel which didnt help. I used 12 gauge spokes which are probably overkill, the nipples are just anodised Al, not alloy though. These are also oversized due to the spoke thickness. In the first wheel I built I used the same spokes and nipple combo, had the worst case I have ever experienced by landing to manual on the corner of a rock. The rim actually split but no spokes/nipples were damaged. Rebuilt it after that with new spokes, nipples and a stronger/heavier Halo SAS rim as there were no T2's in supply, so the rim too is now probably heavier than it needs to be :-( Also went tubeless with inserts at that point to avoid it happening again hopefully.
That's correct, it would be considered a class 2 ebike. So basically it has to be ridden on the same trails as a dirt bike.
'Class 2 ebikes are also limited to a top speed of 20 miles per hour, but they have throttles that work when you're not pedaling.'
It doesnt have a throttle that works when you're not pedalling....It's also not limited to 20mph and it's located in the UK so those rules dont apply anyway.
That's correct, it would be considered a class 2 ebike. So basically it has to be ridden on the same trails as a dirt bike.
'Class 2 ebikes are also limited to a top speed of 20 miles per hour, but they have throttles that work when you're not pedaling.'
It doesnt have a throttle that works when you're not pedalling....It's also not limited to 20mph and it's located in the UK so those rules dont apply anyway.
Well you said it has a 1200watt motor didn’t you?
My understanding is that a class 1 has 250watt? Correct if I'm wrong though, I thought that's why Shimano and Bosch mid drives are 250watt power rated.
That's correct, it would be considered a class 2 ebike. So basically it has to be ridden on the same trails as a dirt bike.
'Class 2 ebikes are also limited to a top speed of 20 miles per hour, but they have throttles that work when you're not pedaling.'
It doesnt have a throttle that works when you're not pedalling....It's also not limited to 20mph and it's located in the UK so those rules dont apply anyway.
Well you said it has a 1200watt motor didn’t you?
My understanding is that a class 1 has 250watt? Correct if I'm wrong though, I thought that's why Shimano and Bosch mid drives are 250watt power rated.
You're right, it does have a 1200w motor. I had a read through the classes you have in the USA & Canada and don't think it fits in any of them exactly but it is probably closest to being in what you guys call class 1
Random question guys, anyone use a pickup truck bed outlet? I have a 2022 f150 that has a 400w 120v bet outlet and want to charge my levo on the way to the trails.
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