You will have to buy a 34, sell your 36, probably throwing several hundred euros / dollars in the operation, to gain less than 200g and end up with something way less stiff and robust.
So my advice would be train harder, on and off the bike, and forget about saving 200g on the fork, this is just not worth it.
You can still change the travel to 140mm using a different air shaft, though.
I would be inclined to put the value of a new 34 into a lighter wheelset, and go with lighter lower rolling resistance tires, dump cushcores if you got them. Switch the chip, and keep the schweet 36. Other ways to drop weight like toss a full face and body armour, just take minimal recovery stuff and a water bottle. But that is just me.
I checked your profile, see you on carbon reserve wheels. Also get it your more concerned with angles and handling changes not douche advice. I'll just crawl back in my hole now.
This is far from being irrelevant if you switch from a 36 to a 34.
For the angles, 0.5 degree slacker for each 1 cm of travel. Barely noticeable.
Your 1st post was.
The HT is specc'd with a 34 140mm fork from the factory. I can tell a difference as I had a 19 HT that I swapped back and forth forks on. I never swapped to the low position and a 34 though. I know it will lower the BB, but I was curious about how much change I would see otherwise. The flip chip is the variable here.
Combine the flip chip with going back to a 140, would I have similar angles I have now, but lower BB? If you know, or can figure it, that is the info I am interested in.
I checked your profile, see you on carbon reserve wheels. Also get it your more concerned with angles and handling changes not douche advice. I'll just crawl back in my hole now.
Haha. No worries. I don't wear a bunch of stuff. I built this bike for my son and a back up bike for me. I really like it, especially on longer rides. I have been contemplating a shorter travel bike and replacing one of these, but I don't dislike either enough to sell one.
I have the 150/150 HTLT that I ride most of the time, but I have started riding the HT more. I did not build it with the lightest groupset, but I did put a set of Enduro S whrels from I9 on it I bought used. I run the same tires on both, same brake sizes, and same cassette size.
I figured since bikes are scarce right now and I like both, why not build the shorter travel one up with lighter components as I can to further differentiate them. Right now they feel very similar.
This is nothing that is needed. It is my hobby that I like to tinker with, spend money on when I can.
I'd really like to have another 18 or so Tallboy, or another short travel lightweight bike, but my son likes the HT and we do go to the mtns occasionally.
Ok, just pulled up the info on SC website about the 17. 29 was designed for low position, 27.5+ high. I believe it is in the high now with the 150, which is working well. Hmmm. High with the 150 is probably going to be very similar to the 140 in low...
Welp, turns out the FAQ on the model page answers the numbers question. Not a big change. But maybe enough to notice, yet easy to change back. Wished I had thought about that earlier. Haha.
I would do it. I was in the same position as you, kind of. I had the HTLT that I needed to build light as a trail bike since I have an Evil Wreckoning as my 2nd bike.
I could tell a difference between 160 vs 150 on my HTLT, more so in the climbing seat angle and cornering (not suspension usage). 150 made it more "sharp" handling.
Change it to 140 and see! You've got nothing to lose, maybe change the HTLT to 160 for fun as well to create more of a distance. In the end I sold the HTLT and picked up an Ibis Ripley to compliment my longer travel bike. HTLT was good though - you can get it light for a long-travel trail bike.