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New rotors when getting new brakes

PB Forum :: Bikes, Parts, and Gear
New rotors when getting new brakes
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Posted: Nov 30, 2021 at 4:06 Quote
Leading on from previous discussions, in an effort to enjoy riding my MTB before buying a whole new one I'm sorting out the brakes. I've never really liked (or even felt that they could stop me!) my Formula RX brakes so looking at some 4 pot SLX.

Currently have Uberbike 200/180mm floating rotors that according to my go/no go gauge have life left in them.

If you were refreshing your bike would you get a new pair? I think I'd go 180/180 finned since the new brakes would be a 4 pot + finned pads and I ride trails mostly (park maybe once a year) that aren't long downhills since it's not a mountainous area.

]Sorry if this is the wrong area couldn't make my mind up if this should be parts or mechanics section.[/I

Posted: Nov 30, 2021 at 5:47 Quote
Save your money.
No sense in tossing out perfectly functional equipment.
If the rotors have life in them then leave them on.

Posted: Nov 30, 2021 at 7:32 Quote
Thought I should add in this case money isn't a problem, £300 is a tenfold smaller bill than new bike and I really want to find the love of riding off road again.

I'll check wear compared to Shimano spec and go from there.

Posted: Nov 30, 2021 at 7:39 Quote
fire-munki wrote:
Thought I should add in this case money isn't a problem, £300 is a tenfold smaller bill than new bike and I really want to find the love of riding off road again.

I'll check wear compared to Shimano spec and go from there.

I agree with the other dude. Save your $$.

Some DH-specific brakes, like Magura's, have slightly thicker rotors, but for general trail riding just keep whatever rotors are on there unless they're visibly trashed, or you're up or downsizing.

Rotors are fine to keep through multiple bikes and since you're running 200/180 on terrain without long descents you're not going to notice any difference going to a finned rotor.

If you want to freshen up your rotors, take some fine-grit sandpaper, isopropyl alcohol, and a lighter. Lightly sand the entire brake surface, squirt with alcohol, and burn off the residue. Let dry and they're good as new.

Posted: Dec 2, 2021 at 11:02 Quote
I’ll jump in from the other side of the fence. I always throw on new rotors when moving brakes over to a new bike. Probably not needed, but nice to start of fresh and not deal with the current warped ones.

Posted: Dec 2, 2021 at 22:37 Quote
I've never found that new rotors are ever true out the box. The last set of Centrelines were more warped brand new than any warping that's occurred whilst riding. I always spend 15mins truing up new rotors, really helps.

Only reason to change rotors is when they're worn, otherwise you're just creating more waste. Clean when they're contaminated, throw when they're worn.

Posted: Dec 3, 2021 at 18:22 Quote
Generally I wouldn't say waste the money...but those UBER rotors are utter garbage...they are a rebranded Chinese open catalogue rotor that they sell on Ali Express under various names... they are overpriced and perform like crap. I know because I bought some in oil slick as I thought they looked cool when I built my Shigura setup. I couldn't believe how bad they were compared to the Magura Storm HC'S in terms of stopping power and initial bite....hoping for ages maybe they just needed more bedding in. Well that never happened, threw the Magura rotors back on and instantly more power. I say forget buying new brakes a moment and just invest in some cheap Magura or Shimano rotors and a new set of decent brake pads and do a rebleed and bed them in again. Think you will find it's not the actual brakes but rather those shitty rotors causing your issues.

Posted: Dec 4, 2021 at 19:46 Quote
I like running Shimano rotors, Icetechs, with my Shimano brakes. I am running single pot XTR's with 200/180 and they work great for me. Not park/DH extended power, but good for trails.

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