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Magura Mt7 problems

PB Forum :: Bikes, Parts, and Gear
Magura Mt7 problems
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Posted: Dec 5, 2021 at 17:56 Quote
I have owned a set of mt7's for about 4 months now and I don't think I have ever been able to get them to stop squealing. They squeal extremely loudly like and actual pig. I've tried everything and have sanded down the pads with alcohol and whatever about a trillion times to no avail. Not only that but I can't seem to get the pads far enough to where they won't rub. Any suggestions?

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 7:43 Quote
So if I understand correctly, you have two different issues.

A) pads are squealing under braking
B) pads are rubbing when not braking

If you pads are squealing under braking, they are probably either glazed over or contaminated. Keep in mind, they will almost always squeal if they are wet. But dry pads should not be squealing. Do you know which pads you are using? 8.p are the most common and come stock with the mt7.
I would also suggest trying the Galfer green pads, they seems to work as good or better and about 25% cheaper.

As for pads rubbing slightly, it’s really really tough to get them not to rub. You likely will need to have your rotors perfectly true and need to get your brake mounts faced by a shop to even have a chance at them not rubbing to some degree. However, you should be able to get them to a point where they not inhibiting your tire rotation at all. The best way is to just put them on a stand and shine a flashing through the caliper and make tiny adjustments. You can also use a tool to reset the pistons on the caliper to try and get them all moving and contacting the rotor at the same time.

The brakes are a bit finnckieif you are ocd about the rubbing, but they do work as good or better than anything else I have used.

Posted: Dec 7, 2021 at 1:29 Quote
WatsonL wrote:
I have owned a set of mt7's for about 4 months now and I don't think I have ever been able to get them to stop squealing. They squeal extremely loudly like and actual pig. I've tried everything and have sanded down the pads with alcohol and whatever about a trillion times to no avail. Not only that but I can't seem to get the pads far enough to where they won't rub. Any suggestions?

Maguras often just do that, even if they aren't contaminated. I think it's usually a cooling issue. Shimano is just wayyyy better IMO and give you more power, more modulation, cost less, are easier to service, and wayyyy more reliable/less problematic. However it's possible they are contaminated.

If it is and you already tried this then ignore this. Every decontamination method is useless in my view except this one. This is the ONLY way to decontaminate pads in my view... Buy a portable electric stove. Cook resin pads on low heat, and metallic on medium. Eventually you will find the exact right heat setting with your stove for a particular pad. Costs 10$ and works perfect every time. Torches don't work, the temperature is too inconsistent, and it costs 5X as much money, and needs to be refueled. The 10$ walmart plug in stove is highly underrated.

For the rub... Are you running magura rotors? Different brands make different thickness rotors. Very hard to see with the eye, but they are fractions of a mm different. If it's the wrong thickness this is the most probable cause. If you are running magura or shimano rotors they should work. Back both pads out by sticking a flathead screwdriver between them and prying them both back, this will reset the adjuster and it should automatically adjust to the right distance. If they are the correct distance and still rubbing then it's an adapter/centering issue or rotor bend.

Check if the rotor is hitting the top of the caliper. Are the rotors straight/true? If not bend them very lightly using your hand where they rub. Use VERY little force, they bend way easier than you expect. There is a bunch more things it could be here, if none of that works then let me know lol.

Posted: Dec 9, 2021 at 7:50 Quote
[Quote="Branmuffin"]
So at first I used the stock pads and thought those were the problem and replaced them multiple times, but now I have switched to ceramic pads from mtx. And also I ride is Az so they're basically never wet. Every time I've taken them off to inspect them they seem to be glazed. I've followed the correct bedding process and everything. As for the adjustments, they work for like a week, then go back to rubbing

Posted: Dec 9, 2021 at 7:57 Quote
[Quote="Sayshell"]
I'll go try this method today but I'm also running ceramic pads right now, what temp should I cook it at? And for how long? And which side do I cook it on? I would agree to think it may be a cooling issue as everytime I look at the pads they're contaminated. And yes I do follow the correct bedding procedure. But I don't know how I can prevent glazing. This is a problem with both ceramic and metallic. I use the storm hc rotors which are very straight. Any other suggestions? And I'd change back to xtrs if I had the money rn. Thanks

Posted: Dec 9, 2021 at 8:16 Quote
wow, I was going to suggest you switch to the MTX pads, but you said you have. I've been running the MTX pads for all last park season and they were absolutely silent and excellent power.

Advice given has been good. I can add one element that had caused my rear brake to squeal in the past. SO, how is the caliper mounted? Direct or with an adapter? Either way I've had 2 issues pop up over the years...first issue to check is to make sure the rotor and caliper are aligned vertically, ie the rotor does not go above the pad. Second, throw away those conical washers and only use flat washers.

Also you might want to pull your pads and check to make sure you dont have a sticky piston.

In the end there really is no reason other than moisture for your MT7 to be loud.

Posted: Dec 9, 2021 at 8:40 Quote
[Quote="CSdirt"]
My brakes are mounted with an adapter and I don't think that the rotors go above the brake pads. Why would switching the the washers eliminate squealing? Thanks

Posted: Dec 9, 2021 at 11:22 Quote
[Quote="WatsonL"]
CSdirt wrote:
Why would switching the the washers eliminate squealing? Thanks

The conical washers allow the caliper to move/tilt a small amount. Usually that's a good thing for helping with alignment, but with my MT7 removing them has made the squeal disappear and my caliper seems to never get out of alignment anymore (can't tilt). Could be unique to my frame, but I mentioned it for you as its worth a shot and cost nothing to try.

Posted: Dec 9, 2021 at 11:33 Quote
When you pull your pads out check the thickness on each side of the pad. There is such a small tolerance in these brakes that the caliper can appear straight over the rotor but are actually quite crooked and wear the pads down unevenly. This is really where getting your brake mounts faced properly can come into play. I don’t know if it helps with the squealing, mine have really never squared except when wet.

Another thing is that the pads are pretty much always going to have a little shine to them once they have been used. This is not really glazing if they still bite well. If they are not biting, then they are probably glazed over/contaminated.

Posted: Dec 9, 2021 at 11:46 Quote
Your rotor also might be shot. I have mt7's and they running perfect. They rub a tiny bit and they only squeak when wet.

Posted: Dec 10, 2021 at 0:59 Quote
[Quote="WatsonL"]
Sayshell wrote:
I'll go try this method today but I'm also running ceramic pads right now, what temp should I cook it at? And for how long? And which side do I cook it on? I would agree to think it may be a cooling issue as everytime I look at the pads they're contaminated. And yes I do follow the correct bedding procedure. But I don't know how I can prevent glazing. This is a problem with both ceramic and metallic. I use the storm hc rotors which are very straight. Any other suggestions? And I'd change back to xtrs if I had the money rn. Thanks

Based on what you have said I doubt it's contamination. Cook it with the brake surface touching the stove. To my understanding ceramic is the same as resin, so low heat. Each company has a different name just to make life harder. For example avid calls resin "organic" and metallic "sintered". I would give cooking a go, then clean the rotor with just alcohol. This should rule out the possibility of contamination unless your brake is leaking oil out of the caliper. Then it will come back in a week or so. Brakes are annoying hahaha. But yeah basically there is always something going on with Maguras hahaha. If it gets annoying just go shimano. Maybe switch to XT. Even SLX is really good. Shimano are double the power, and much more modulation. My 2 piston SLX is definitely more power than my 4piston Magura. If you are a weight weenie, Formula makes a nice paperweight brake that is affordable. I am not sure if they are reliable though, but they are good power for sure, and don't squeal.

Posted: Dec 10, 2021 at 8:06 Quote
Sayshell wrote:

My 2 piston SLX is definitely more power than my 4piston Magura.

Lollllll!! lol lol lol This is the funniest thing I've read on here in awhile.

Posted: Dec 10, 2021 at 9:02 Quote
CSdirt wrote:
Sayshell wrote:

My 2 piston SLX is definitely more power than my 4piston Magura.

Lollllll!! lol lol lol This is the funniest thing I've read on here in awhile.

You might wanna check your own brakes for contamination/glazing/leaks because now you are just being silly. I ignored the nonsense when you said Shimano has better modulation than Magura, which is just plain nonsense. Shimano is widely known, and honestly sought after for their lack of modulation and that big thump you get when engaging the brakes.

You seem to have a bit of an agenda in this thread of crapping on Magura brakes and just telling someone to get Shimano brakes instead. Probably not very helpful in helping to resolve the current issue.

Posted: Dec 10, 2021 at 23:01 Quote
Branmuffin wrote:
CSdirt wrote:
Sayshell wrote:

My 2 piston SLX is definitely more power than my 4piston Magura.

Lollllll!! lol lol lol This is the funniest thing I've read on here in awhile.

You might wanna check your own brakes for contamination/glazing/leaks because now you are just being silly. I ignored the nonsense when you said Shimano has better modulation than Magura, which is just plain nonsense. Shimano is widely known, and honestly sought after for their lack of modulation and that big thump you get when engaging the brakes.

You seem to have a bit of an agenda in this thread of crapping on Magura brakes and just telling someone to get Shimano brakes instead. Probably not very helpful in helping to resolve the current issue.

I am just speaking from experience. Yeah I am exaggerating a bit, but I still think Shimano are better. I had a set of MT Trails brand new (they are 4 piston front, 2 rear), and that was my experience with them. The brake would slip when I do up to fronts on a 180mm new rotor bedded in properly, but they would not slip with a 2 piston SLX 180mm. I decontaminated them so there was no squeal, still terrible power. Upgraded the pads twice, and now decent power but still not great. Beyond that all the maguras I have ridden are really old like the Louise, Martas, Gustavs, etc... hahaha. Not really a fair comparison to more modern brakes.I measure modulation by how easy it is to control a manuel. It's definitely 3X easier with the SLX. I have only ridden one modern Magura (the MT trail), and I have ridden a billion shimanos. I am comparing it to an SLX M675. That was just my experience trying both brakes side by side, both brand new, etc... Modern Maguras are quite a lot better than the old ones, but I think Shimano still outperform them. I had basically the exact same thing happen to me that the OP posted, and that is how I ultimately resolved it. You are welcome to post your experience trying both, that is just mine. The reason I bought the magura is because everyone says what you are saying, and then I was disappointed when I actually got it. It's decent, but overrated IMO.

Also side note do Maguras use servos in them? (variable leverage) It feels like they don't. If they don't then a shimano should have considerably more power, as the leverage is increasing continually so at the start of the stroke you get speed, and towards the end you get force. I think this is why a lot of riders use "shiguras" (magura calipers with shimano levers). It would also explain how you can get both power and modulation, most brakes seem to be either or.

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