Code R Bleeding

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Code R Bleeding
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Posted: Jan 25, 2022 at 4:23 Quote
I have a set of Code Rs that came on a YT Decoy Shred. They've been bled twice by my local shop and twice by me and the rear brake still pulls to the bar. It hits the bite, then just keeps going without much effort. It does seem to pump up also. Any advice on what to do? I had another go last night and then left the lever pulled tight with a rubber band, but no improvement. I can't see any air coming out during bleed. The front now feels pretty decent, but the rear is not exactly confidence inspiring, especially on a 25kg bike!

Posted: Jan 25, 2022 at 5:55 Quote
militantmandy wrote:
I have a set of Code Rs that came on a YT Decoy Shred. They've been bled twice by my local shop and twice by me and the rear brake still pulls to the bar. It hits the bite, then just keeps going without much effort. It does seem to pump up also. Any advice on what to do? I had another go last night and then left the lever pulled tight with a rubber band, but no improvement. I can't see any air coming out during bleed. The front now feels pretty decent, but the rear is not exactly confidence inspiring, especially on a 25kg bike!

Not exactly the same, but I have a set of Code RSC's and when I first got them on the first ride they seemed spongy. The second ride they were spongy and then the lever went straight to the bar and I had to pump the brake lever to get anything with it - very scary on the trail I was at.
I took it home and bled it. It took a while. I followed the videos and finally got a few bubbles out. Never had a problem since then.
I did a few things different from the SRAM video.
First: I degassed the DOT fluid before I started - this was a step that was directed on older Avid brakes and I don't know why SRAM stopped telling people to do it - maybe it's a worthless step, but I do it. Reason being is there will be trapped gases in the DOT fluid and you can remove it by putting fluid in the syringes, clamping the syringe tubes, and then pulling on the plungers easily. Gas bubbles will appear in the fluid and float up. Unclamp the tube and push the bubbles out the tube before using the fluid.
Second: Toward the end of my process I held the brake lever against the bar and slowly pushed fluid up from the caliper and easily let the lever back out. I saw this on another video and felt it was a smart move to help remove any air and ensure the lever was charged well.
Third: I took the syringe off at the lever first. Then I pushed fluid with the caliper syringe and closed the Bleeding edge tool shut. This way I had a fully pressed charge of fluid and I didn't lose a drop.

I hope it helps. Good luck.

Posted: Jan 25, 2022 at 7:18 Quote
BenLow2019 wrote:
militantmandy wrote:
I have a set of Code Rs that came on a YT Decoy Shred. They've been bled twice by my local shop and twice by me and the rear brake still pulls to the bar. It hits the bite, then just keeps going without much effort. It does seem to pump up also. Any advice on what to do? I had another go last night and then left the lever pulled tight with a rubber band, but no improvement. I can't see any air coming out during bleed. The front now feels pretty decent, but the rear is not exactly confidence inspiring, especially on a 25kg bike!

Not exactly the same, but I have a set of Code RSC's and when I first got them on the first ride they seemed spongy. The second ride they were spongy and then the lever went straight to the bar and I had to pump the brake lever to get anything with it - very scary on the trail I was at.
I took it home and bled it. It took a while. I followed the videos and finally got a few bubbles out. Never had a problem since then.
I did a few things different from the SRAM video.
First: I degassed the DOT fluid before I started - this was a step that was directed on older Avid brakes and I don't know why SRAM stopped telling people to do it - maybe it's a worthless step, but I do it. Reason being is there will be trapped gases in the DOT fluid and you can remove it by putting fluid in the syringes, clamping the syringe tubes, and then pulling on the plungers easily. Gas bubbles will appear in the fluid and float up. Unclamp the tube and push the bubbles out the tube before using the fluid.
Second: Toward the end of my process I held the brake lever against the bar and slowly pushed fluid up from the caliper and easily let the lever back out. I saw this on another video and felt it was a smart move to help remove any air and ensure the lever was charged well.
Third: I took the syringe off at the lever first. Then I pushed fluid with the caliper syringe and closed the Bleeding edge tool shut. This way I had a fully pressed charge of fluid and I didn't lose a drop.

I hope it helps. Good luck.

Well, I am definitely not degassing as you describe and I have been closing the bleeding edge first, so I will give this a try and see if it improves things. These brakes are on every bloody bike, surely they can't be that hard to get a good bleed on!

Thanks for your help!

Posted: Jan 25, 2022 at 9:00 Quote
I bleed mine exactly the way the Parktool video shows. Never had any issues. They bite great. I def loose a little oil at the end I’m not as careful as above. I also get lots of bubbles out in the process, Probly due to not being as professional as others. But following the Parktool video exact, my brakes work great.
2 silly questions
1-are you missing any seals on your bleed kit maybe getting air in the lines
2-very silly but any contamination on pads or rotor, not bed in? Did you touch any of them with your fingers? You mention you’re front is better now, is it just getting slowly bed in?
Sorry if this is a newb thing just thought I’d ask, sometimes it’s the simple things.
Good luck those are nice brakes.

Edit: I’m only mentioning this because if I do this way and it may not be the best and it takes ten minutes each brake. Maybe there’s something wrong with your brakes. Any other method mentioned may very well be much better then the Parktool method. I’m just giving you contrast.
I use sram bleed kit
Sram 5.1.

Posted: Jan 25, 2022 at 16:00 Quote
So is it actually biting enough to slow the bike and then continues squishing in? Or just feeling a bit of resistance and then carries on to the bar?

I am just starting to work with Code R's on my downhill bike as I have always been shimano before. I found the Codes a little more challenging to get an early bite point as there is still so much lever throw after the bite point compared to shimano (the modulation).

Is your lever adjust all the way out when bleeding?

I wonder if one of the caliper pistons is too far away from the rotor and stuck or slow... once the others make contact, fluid pressure takes the least resistance moving the other piston in free travel, and it doesn't firm up before the lever makes contact.

Posted: Jan 25, 2022 at 23:10 Quote
1- No seals missing, but Epic Bleed Solutions kit not exactly the last word in quality. However I am not convinced I am introducing air. I feel like there is air stuck somewhere that I am not able to remove.
2 - 100% not a contamination issue.

OK so the issue was:

I pull lever, get an ok feeling bite, which does sow the bike / can lock wheel. But, 2 issues:

1 - Lever can be pulled past bite point fairly easily to bar, meaning on steep trails I am having to pull harder than I should
2 - Sometimes, particularly at the top of a trail, lever just pulls straight to bar and bite is very weak

I've tried cleaning and greasing pistons. I have no doubt they are not all coming out nice and evenly!

I tried what BenLow suggested and actually the situation seems to have improved a bit. The rear still feels worse than the front, with a softer bite and heavier throw, but no longer seems to be coming to the bar and requires less effort on trails.

I've never seen the Park Tools video, so I'll give that a watch as well. Thanks!

Posted: Jan 26, 2022 at 9:16 Quote
Perhaps take caliper right off and do a lot of tapping. It does sound like air trapped somewhere.

Posted: Jan 26, 2022 at 12:07 Quote
I suffered the same symptoms you described. Look up the trouble shooting spongy lever (stuck piston procedure) in the SRAM manual. I did the process a couple times and a full bleed and have not had the problem since. I also rotated the stuck piston slightly. Its been at least a year and two sets of pads. I think the pistons don't like being overheated and may deform slightly. In my case, I ran a set of pads down to metal.

Posted: Jan 27, 2022 at 1:09 Quote
Dustndirt wrote:
I suffered the same symptoms you described. Look up the trouble shooting spongy lever (stuck piston procedure) in the SRAM manual. I did the process a couple times and a full bleed and have not had the problem since. I also rotated the stuck piston slightly. Its been at least a year and two sets of pads. I think the pistons don't like being overheated and may deform slightly. In my case, I ran a set of pads down to metal.

I'll have a look, thanks. The brakes on the Decoy now seem ok. I thought the codes on my Privateer were sorted, but I now notice the rear is once again pulling to the bar! So, still some work to do. If I cannot get sorted this week, I may just give up and swap the Maguras from my other bike.

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