? The bb height is adjusted to maintain typical seat tube lengths and stand over heights. The tall appearance may come from the taller wheels yet similar to 26" wheel base.
I also ride a 29er (Enduro 29 that I absolutely love) that is tall but some 29ers just look less balanced especially in smaller sizes. I suppose that it is a combination of the taller front end vs the shorter top tube and wheelbase.
I've been on a 29er full time for a couple years and I now find larger size bikes with smaller wheels look awkward. I think the term "gate" is used? I don't personally find my bike looks like it should be ridden by a pro NBA player:
I have a medium Cotic Solaris and it has about the same top tube to top of wheel height appearance as a jump bike.
I would have preferred a large but the discontinued sale of them meant having to jump on the medium. Still a great size with a long Seatpost.
My little brother tried a size small 29" Cube and kept catching his toes on the front wheel when turning. This being quite a big problem especially as he hasn't got big feet. They are just cramming wagon wheels onto frames that simply aren't big enough to viably function.
Cube is a good example of how not to do bikes, their L bikes have under 600mm top tubes, HA's are steep and top tubes are gate like tall. But the colours are fancy.
Cube is a good example of how not to do bikes, their L bikes have under 600mm top tubes, HA's are steep and top tubes are gate like tall. But the colours are fancy.
What do you know about bike design ? Tell Nico Lau his bike is crap, he won't hear he's too busy getting results in the EWS ! Armchair experts.
I've actualy designed and made a full sus bike in my shed. Also rode a lot of bikes and sold a few at the shop where I worked (and had to try each one of them before sale), out of the bunch Cube and Fuji bikes had the worst geo's. It's not something you need to study, just sit on a Trek or a Spesh (easiest to find) bikes and sit on a Cube after that, the ergonomy is bad. But the colours are fancy.
Because it will be only to commute in the city and in winter, I want to change the suspension for a rigid fork. When I check the geo, I see that I need a fork length (axel to crown) of 494mm with an offset of 45mm, 494mm seems impossible to find for a hard fork, and I know that the suspension compresses anyway so the real length is not 494.
Does anybody has recommandation for forks for me? and would a 465mm A-C fork would be suitable for me?
thanks!
Do you plan on using Fenders? I've run surly forks on commuters and you need to figure out some extensions if you wanna use more traditional fenders.
I've converted many mtbs to commuters and my last bike I put on a shorter fork and actually liked it. Having a steeper head angle isn't a terrible thing in traffic as you're weaving more. You could look into a Karate monkey fork or a Kona P2 which is coming off a UNIT. I think they corrected for 100mm and 80mm forks respectively.
here is some picture of my 29er. it doesn't look much like a mountain bike anymore, but it handel winter city commuting pretty well! The fork is 450mm so its way smaller than the 494mm of the original suspension, but you were right jesse : it feels ok for commuting (with riser handel bar).
Also, the Planet Bike fender for 29er fit perfectly, even with the 2.3 original tires, no extra hardware needed. I just had to use some hardware in front because there was no designated fender mount holes.
[Quote="brigand"]I've actualy designed and made a full sus bike in my shed. Also rode a lot of bikes and sold a few at the shop where I worked (and had to try each one of them before sale), out of the bunch Cube and Fuji bikes had the worst geo's. It's not something you need to study, just sit on a Trek or a Spesh (easiest to find) bikes and sit on a Cube after that, the ergonomy is bad. But the colours are fancy.
Fair enough, that's your opinion but I still like my Stereo though ! And your opinion of their bad geometry is only your opinion, perhaps I'm odd but it suits me.