Still need to put marks on it, but this is my solution to wondering what gear I'm in when I'm too scared to look down at my cassette! If you want to print one, you can find this on Thingiverse under my username (I'm RunsWithScissors there, too).
Do you not just keep clicking down when you need more speed and keep clicking up when you need more powarh?
Still need to put marks on it, but this is my solution to wondering what gear I'm in when I'm too scared to look down at my cassette! If you want to print one, you can find this on Thingiverse under my username (I'm RunsWithScissors there, too).
Do you not just keep clicking down when you need more speed and keep clicking up when you need more powarh?
Of course, but when I'm approaching a sudden steep climb at speed in a high gear I like to be able quickly see what gear I'm in and downshift enough gears at the right moment(s) to sustain as much speed as possible without downshifting under load half way up the hill. Sure, a fair amount of modern drivetrains will tolerate shifting under load to varying degrees, but why beat up the gear if you can easily avoid it?
Those of us that rode back when 5x2 speed was pretty fair, got used to keeping track of the gear we were in, as the range was limited, and cross chaining sounded so bad that even the most ignorant riders accepted it being a bad idea.
Now there are like 10-12 speed cassettes out there, and people generally shift according to feel, and hope they don't run out of options. This is especially true for the crowd that never saw anything but 1xX. The grand result is that people began favoring 1xX, as they had trouble with 2xX and 3xX. The boring consequence is that the drive trains become weaker and weaker, and significantly less durable, all in the name of the lowest common denominator. On top of that, the loss in the drive train is increasing significantly, as the chain angle increases, but that also seems to pass over most peoples heads.
So yeah, get used to keeping track of the gear you're in. Having to look at some indicator is not going to do you any favors in most cases.
Yeah, basically it's a cut down tapered rubber bung with washers either side and an M6 thumb screw which can also be screwed into the chain tool for purchase.
FoxShox Lyke RC2 Coil 29" 120mm. Standard Fox 36 RC2 damper fitted to a 26" Pike CSU, 29" Lyrik lowers, and coil parts from older generation Lyrik/Boxxer.
Amazing. Do the top cap threads on the CSU and RC2 assembly match, or did you have to modify them?
I designed a new top bit for the damper, and I had to slightly modify other parts to make it fit aswell. In the end it works alright, but you need to be happy to use a hacksaw and and file on some rather expensive parts.