Homemade Parts!

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Homemade Parts!
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flag monkeyboyjc
Posted: Nov 22, 2018 at 23:44 Quote
Bamboo/carbon gravel bike frame I'm building in my garage....
photo
flag BaGearA
Posted: Nov 25, 2018 at 10:05 Quote
has anyone on here attempted to turn boost adapters themselves ?

And AFAIK you can only make one front , i.e. turn a driveside cap that is 10mm longer then yo don't have to space the rotor out but just correctly dish the wheel , no ?


and on the rear I'm not sure but you probably have to turn both that are 3mm longer each ?



these will some of the first things Iwant tot turn if I decide to buy a lathe , got decent experience but I now want to start making my own stuff
flag Arnoodles
Posted: Nov 25, 2018 at 10:14 Quote
Boost rear is its own thing. I think you can adapt a 135mm hub to it but that would require a disc spacer as well IIRC. For 135 mm hubs adpated for142mm spacing you make the endcaps 3.5mm longer on either side.

Not sure for front boost. You might wanna check that the brake spacing is actually the same.
flag RunsWithScissors
Posted: Nov 25, 2018 at 10:56 Quote
BaGearA wrote:
has anyone on here attempted to turn boost adapters themselves ?

And AFAIK you can only make one front , i.e. turn a driveside cap that is 10mm longer then yo don't have to space the rotor out but just correctly dish the wheel , no ?


and on the rear I'm not sure but you probably have to turn both that are 3mm longer each ?



these will some of the first things Iwant tot turn if I decide to buy a lathe , got decent experience but I now want to start making my own stuff

I've never turned a boost adapter myself, but I've sold a couple of rear boost adapters in the last few weeks and I happened to measure one. All of the difference of 6mm was taken up by a wider nondrive side endcap, and there was also a 3mm thick 6 bolt flange adapter and longer bolts to move the disc 3mm outboard. No change to the drive side needed, which makes sense. If you went 3mm wider on each side without moving the cassette outboard you'd have a slightly bad chainline on a boost frame/chainring. Off by about 3mm I would suspect.
flag BaGearA
Posted: Nov 25, 2018 at 11:08 Quote
RunsWithScissors wrote:
BaGearA wrote:
has anyone on here attempted to turn boost adapters themselves ?

And AFAIK you can only make one front , i.e. turn a driveside cap that is 10mm longer then yo don't have to space the rotor out but just correctly dish the wheel , no ?


and on the rear I'm not sure but you probably have to turn both that are 3mm longer each ?



these will some of the first things Iwant tot turn if I decide to buy a lathe , got decent experience but I now want to start making my own stuff

I've never turned a boost adapter myself, but I've sold a couple of rear boost adapters in the last few weeks and I happened to measure one. All of the difference of 6mm was taken up by a wider nondrive side endcap, and there was also a 3mm thick 6 bolt flange adapter and longer bolts to move the disc 3mm outboard. No change to the drive side needed, which makes sense. If you went 3mm wider on each side without moving the cassette outboard you'd have a slightly bad chainline on a boost frame/chainring. Off by about 3mm I would suspect.


thanks , that atleast clears up the rear for me Smile
flag JimmyGrand
Posted: Nov 25, 2018 at 14:58 Quote
Designed these in Inventor, and had a mate machine them. They fit Hope Pro 2 Evo front hubs. Both sides are wider, so the dish of the wheel does not have to be changed.
DIY Boost adaptors for Hope Pro 2 Evo front hubs machined by a mate.
flag krumpdancer101
O+
Posted: Nov 26, 2018 at 6:32 Quote
The thing I have heard about using non- boost wheels with an adapter is that when you re-dish the wheel for the adapter the wheel is not as strong as it would be. I don’t know this from personal use and it might be OK for just trail riding but I’m not sure I would go and take jumps with a wheele that is purposely offset.
flag RunsWithScissors
Posted: Nov 26, 2018 at 6:48 Quote
krumpdancer101 wrote:
The thing I have heard about using non- boost wheels with an adapter is that when you re-dish the wheel for the adapter the wheel is not as strong as it would be. I don’t know this from personal use and it might be OK for just trail riding but I’m not sure I would go and take jumps with a wheele that is purposely offset.

I wondered about that myself until I did the spoke math and thought about it a bit. The answers I came up with were that the amount you need to move will usually add up to right around 1-1.5 turns of spoke thread, which winds up being about .5-.75mm. Pretty insignificant unless your spoke length was a little dodgy to begin with.
flag wavedude
Posted: Dec 14, 2018 at 17:11 Quote
Made these combo-boost-20-to-15mm adapters and rear spacers for a friend. He's gonna source the rotor spacer elsewhere:

Emmett 39 s 20-to-15 boost adapters
Emmett's 20-to-15 boost adapters

Emmett 39 s boost spacers
Emmett's boost spacers
flag monkeyboyjc
Posted: Dec 23, 2018 at 7:36 Quote
Bikes complete now....
photo
flag Grumposaur
Posted: Dec 23, 2018 at 8:43 Quote
very cool project!

How does it compare to steel or alu frames?
flag monkeyboyjc
Posted: Dec 23, 2018 at 9:41 Quote
It should has more vibration dampening than steel. But I've not had a chance to ride it yet - working to much.....
flag MoleGrips
Posted: Dec 23, 2018 at 13:05 Quote
Just be careful not to get it too wet...of course you won't, we're in Britain!! ;-)

Good work sir. It'll be more environmentally friendly than full carbon fibre and certainly a conversation piece!
flag Mr-Magura
Posted: Dec 23, 2018 at 13:11 Quote
MoleGrips wrote:

Good work sir. It'll be more environmentally friendly than full carbon fibre

Why so?


Magura Smile
flag MoleGrips
Posted: Dec 23, 2018 at 13:18 Quote
Bamboo is at least a renewable resource.

Less carbon fibre and resin is needed. Carbon fibre composite is not recyclable or renewable.

The bamboo can be rotted down at the end of it's life and return to the earth (once the resin is removed...somehow)

 


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