Homemade Parts!

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Homemade Parts!
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flag ktm87
O+
Posted: Mar 8, 2019 at 11:17 Quote
Mr-Magura wrote:
Looking good, but be careful about the cutouts on the back of the bars. That I would expect to end poorly.
You can make the cutouts, but you need to support the bars around the entire circumfence.

Magura Smile

the cutouts are only .2" deep at the deepest point and the center of the stem is not machined out. do you still think that would be a issue?
flag Mr-Magura
Posted: Mar 8, 2019 at 11:22 Quote
ktm87 wrote:
Mr-Magura wrote:
Looking good, but be careful about the cutouts on the back of the bars. That I would expect to end poorly.
You can make the cutouts, but you need to support the bars around the entire circumfence.

Magura Smile

the cutouts are only .2" deep at the deepest point and the center of the stem is not machined out. do you still think that would be a issue?

Yes, I'd definitely want a proper edge for the bars to rest against, in any direction.
I'd rather hollow the whole construction out.

Magura Smile
flag ktm87
O+
Posted: Mar 8, 2019 at 11:24 Quote
Mr-Magura wrote:
ktm87 wrote:
Mr-Magura wrote:
Looking good, but be careful about the cutouts on the back of the bars. That I would expect to end poorly.
You can make the cutouts, but you need to support the bars around the entire circumfence.

Magura Smile

the cutouts are only .2" deep at the deepest point and the center of the stem is not machined out. do you still think that would be a issue?

Yes, I'd definitely want a proper edge for the bars to rest against, in any direction.
I'd rather hollow the whole construction out.

Magura Smile

that makes sense. this is only first prototype so lots of room for improvement
flag Mr-Magura
Posted: Mar 8, 2019 at 11:30 Quote
If you make a 4 bolt bar clamp, you can get to just about every corner, of the inside of the stem.
Then it becomes a simple game of safety factor.
If you use steel bolts, and Ti6Al4V for the rest, you can get a nice stem out of that.
Unpayable, but real nice!

Magura Smile
flag Kustomango
O+
Posted: Mar 8, 2019 at 12:45 Quote
ktm87 wrote:
stem im working on, first prototype. pretty rough. final version will be titanium

First Enduro stem rough prototype
First Enduro stem rough prototype

Looks good! Is that the dimensions and thicknesses for the to version or did you make this a rideable prototype and add some thickness for what I assume is aluminium alloy of some form?

Would look so cool to have a slim steel-esk aesthetic enduring capable stem.
flag ktm87
O+
Posted: Mar 8, 2019 at 12:52 Quote
Kustomango wrote:

Looks good! Is that the dimensions and thicknesses for the to version or did you make this a rideable prototype and add some thickness for what I assume is aluminium alloy of some form?

Would look so cool to have a slim steel-esk aesthetic enduring capable stem.

this is just a rideable prototype. once i get my new computer finished ill be able to run som testing and see where i can slim it down. there will also be chamfers all the way around which help make it look slimmer. in person it looks alot slimmer then in the pics too. i think the closeup make it look thicker
flag Kustomango
O+
Posted: Mar 8, 2019 at 12:58 Quote
ktm87 wrote:
Kustomango wrote:

Looks good! Is that the dimensions and thicknesses for the to version or did you make this a rideable prototype and add some thickness for what I assume is aluminium alloy of some form?

Would look so cool to have a slim steel-esk aesthetic enduring capable stem.

this is just a rideable prototype. once i get my new computer finished ill be able to run som testing and see where i can slim it down. there will also be chamfers all the way around which help make it look slimmer. in person it looks alot slimmer then in the pics too. i think the closeup make it look thicker

Nice, I though that everything might have been slimmed down proportional to the increased yield strength of Ti Vs Al so you could get a stem of the exact same strength but just slim like a steel stem.
Either way it will look a million dollars I am sure
flag kwapik
Posted: Mar 8, 2019 at 14:05 Quote
ktm87 wrote:
stem im working on, first prototype. pretty rough. final version will be titanium

First Enduro stem rough prototype
First Enduro stem rough prototype

Nice start. Curious, what machine are you using?
flag ktm87
O+
Posted: Mar 8, 2019 at 15:51 Quote
kwapik wrote:

Nice start. Curious, what machine are you using?

Thanks, we have 4 fadals. Our 4th axis is down right now so had to do this without it. Once it's back up I'll be making some changes and it should come out alot better and alot faster
flag ktm87
O+
Posted: Mar 8, 2019 at 15:51 Quote
Kustomango wrote:
ktm87 wrote:
Kustomango wrote:

Looks good! Is that the dimensions and thicknesses for the to version or did you make this a rideable prototype and add some thickness for what I assume is aluminium alloy of some form?

Would look so cool to have a slim steel-esk aesthetic enduring capable stem.

this is just a rideable prototype. once i get my new computer finished ill be able to run som testing and see where i can slim it down. there will also be chamfers all the way around which help make it look slimmer. in person it looks alot slimmer then in the pics too. i think the closeup make it look thicker

Nice, I though that everything might have been slimmed down proportional to the increased yield strength of Ti Vs Al so you could get a stem of the exact same strength but just slim like a steel stem.
Either way it will look a million dollars I am sure

Oh gotcha! I will be doing that soon
flag kwapik
Posted: Mar 8, 2019 at 18:08 Quote
ktm87 wrote:

Thanks, we have 4 fadals. Our 4th axis is down right now so had to do this without it. Once it's back up I'll be making some changes and it should come out alot better and alot faster

Fadals are good..."for machinists by machinists" tup
flag Grumposaur
Posted: Mar 9, 2019 at 2:47 Quote
Just some functional remarks: is behind the bar clamping bolts enough space to place the stem spacer rings on the steerer tube?
And the way the bar is clamped is forcing the stem quite high up, any lower and you will be touching the headtube. Or even the toptube when spinning the bars (in crash scenario for example?)
flag edvin-m
Posted: Mar 9, 2019 at 3:48 Quote
This is a remote for dropperposts I made a while back, the lever sits more underneath the handle bar and with the rotation pivot more forward than others. The idea is that you shouldn't have to unwrap your thumb as much to actuate it and instead be able to keep a better grip of your handlebar. Useful if you actuating it while you are riding through a rough section.

photo

The function is 100% but I'm probably gonna reprint a new finger plate for better ergonomics.

I had some initial worries regarding the strength but it's been on for a couple of weeks and through some crashes so hopefully it'll hold together. Trying to get access to a CNC-mill so I can make a aluminium version of it though Smile

You need:
1x 608 bearing, preferably sealed
1x M8 washer
1x M5 large washer
3x M5 Nut
1x M5 bolt
1x M5 washer
1x wire clamp thingy from a Shimano rear dereileur
1x wire tensioner from a Shimano shifter
1x M3 bolt

photo

Some instructions:
Printing:
-Print everything is ASA or ABS. 100% infill. You want it strong. See the screen shot of Simplify3d for how to orient the different parts.
-Use supports everywhere except for in the channel for the wire. Remove them manually.
-Cold acetone vapour smooth everything for extra strength, 24h minimum with very little acetone in the container to get the acetone to penetrate the parts better.
-Clean up all parts post printing with a dremel/knife


photo

Lever:
-Attach the thumb plate to the lever by gluing it with acetone(it will partly melt the ABS/ASA).
-Press the nut into its slot with a small drop of acetone to glue it in place, similar for the washer on the other side. Wait for the acetone to evaporate then use a short M5 bolt and the wire clamp from an old Shimano derailleur to clamp down the wire.
-Press the bearing into the lever, make sure you use a

Mainbody:
-Thread the hole for the wire tensioner with a M5 tap. Screw in a wire tensioner from a shimano shifter or similar.
-Drill out the bottom 8mm of the hole in the middle of the bearing with a 5mm drillbit.
-Thread the rest of the hole in the middle of the bearing with a M5 tap.
-Press a M8 washer around the center pin to act as a harder mounting surface for the bearing.
-Press the lever assembly with the bearing in it onto the body.
-Secure and preload the bearing with first a large M5 washer and then a M5 bolt.

Clamp mechanism:
-Take a M3 bolt, cut of the head so you have a threaded rod that is 16 mm long, cut a small slot in one end for a flat screw driver.
-Use a M3 tap to thread the hole in the outbord side
-Use a M5 tap to thread the hole for the clamping screw
-Assemble the front clamp to the main body with the M3 rod as the axle. Use a small amount of loctite to hold it in place.

Attach the wire from your dropper and go shred!

photo

photo

photo

photo
flag wythall1
Posted: Mar 9, 2019 at 10:26 Quote
That is brilliant! It makes me want to go out and buy a 3d printer! Big Grin
flag Pedro404
Posted: Mar 9, 2019 at 13:32 Quote
Sick! I messed around with the idea of 3D printing a dropper lever some time ago but never got further than some rough prototypes.

 


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