when u ride DH do u set your rebound to slow or fast?

PB Forum :: Downhill
when u ride DH do u set your rebound to slow or fast?
Author Message
flag woody-dh
Posted: Oct 21, 2009 at 23:19 Quote
odin333 wrote:
no, your suppose to run BOTH your rebounds as high as possible without it getting bucked. if your running a low rebound your shock is constantly going to be bottoming itself out, which means its going to feel like riding a hardtail in rough sections and your going to get an insane head angle.

Haha, no. DH riders are suposed to have all the compression the can get so they can go through rock-gardens without the feeling of being on a hardtail.
flag odin333
Posted: Oct 22, 2009 at 6:34 Quote
haha, yes. if you have your rebound slow the hits are going to stack up on the shock through a rock garden, which means your shock is going to constantly be in the bottom out stage of its travel. that means its going to feel more firm and more like a hardtail. also your bike is not going to track as well because the wheel isn't going to be rebounding back to flatten the terrain. so your at a higher chance of being bucked because if you have a large hit while at the end of your travel your bike isn't going to absorb it and the force of the large hit will transfer vertical giving your bike a buck.
flag dobby
Posted: Oct 22, 2009 at 7:45 Quote
odin333 wrote:
haha, yes. if you have your rebound slow the hits are going to stack up on the shock through a rock garden, which means your shock is going to constantly be in the bottom out stage of its travel. that means its going to feel more firm and more like a hardtail. also your bike is not going to track as well because the wheel isn't going to be rebounding back to flatten the terrain. so your at a higher chance of being bucked because if you have a large hit while at the end of your travel your bike isn't going to absorb it and the force of the large hit will transfer vertical giving your bike a buck.

.... Thus proving that physics can be a bitch. But that is exactly what happens if you have it to low.
flag collin7
Posted: Oct 22, 2009 at 8:09 Quote
jettj45 wrote:
You are supposed to set both as fast as possible according to the terrain of the course. The faster it is the better traction you will get. How is this not common sense........

I agree... how hard could it be? no pun intended. notice he is saying as fast as possible according to the course...

explanations don't get much easier and better than that...
flag Downhill-Doug
Posted: Jul 4, 2010 at 12:01 Quote
Any tips for a fox 40 rc2 rebound on fort william downhill? (the entire course is a rock garden) I've tried slow and it doesnt work to well, medium is so so, and i don't want pogo sticks that buck me off straight away. Should I set the rebound fast but not to fast? or is that a no no for rocks?
flag odin333
Posted: Jul 4, 2010 at 12:02 Quote
just play around with it. you always want your suspension to rebound as fast as possible but without giving the feeling of trying to buck you off the bike.
flag Downhill-Doug
Posted: Jul 4, 2010 at 12:24 Quote
odin333 wrote:
just play around with it. you always want your suspension to rebound as fast as possible but without giving the feeling of trying to buck you off the bike.
cheers pal, i'l try them faster till i get a nice feel
flag stryke
Posted: Jul 4, 2010 at 12:53 Quote
woody-dh wrote:
odin333 wrote:
no, your suppose to run BOTH your rebounds as high as possible without it getting bucked. if your running a low rebound your shock is constantly going to be bottoming itself out, which means its going to feel like riding a hardtail in rough sections and your going to get an insane head angle.

Haha, no. DH riders are suposed to have all the compression the can get so they can go through rock-gardens without the feeling of being on a hardtail.

compression makes the suspension 'harder' which would make it feel more like a hardtail
flag stryke
Posted: Jul 4, 2010 at 12:53 Quote
odin333 wrote:
haha, yes. if you have your rebound slow the hits are going to stack up on the shock through a rock garden, which means your shock is going to constantly be in the bottom out stage of its travel. that means its going to feel more firm and more like a hardtail. also your bike is not going to track as well because the wheel isn't going to be rebounding back to flatten the terrain. so your at a higher chance of being bucked because if you have a large hit while at the end of your travel your bike isn't going to absorb it and the force of the large hit will transfer vertical giving your bike a buck.

maybe if your shock is from 2000 when damping was pretty terrible, these days you can run rebound pretty slow and not encounter any problems
flag stryke
Posted: Jul 4, 2010 at 12:54 Quote
odin333 wrote:
you set your rebound as fast as you can WITHOUT it bucking you. faster rebound is better because it is going to track the ground better. if you set it too high its going to rebound too fast off of things like jumps and rock gardens and make your bike feel unstable and bouncy.

more like the opposite

it should be run as slow as possible without packing down, the bike will be more stable and you will have less pogo stick moments and the bike will be alot more planted
flag odin333
Posted: Jul 4, 2010 at 12:55 Quote
and if you have your rebound too slow when you go through a rock garden all the hits are going to stack up because the suspension can't rebound enough, so your constantly going to have the shock at the bottom-out stage.
flag killerbikeman
Posted: Jul 4, 2010 at 12:55 Quote
Hummeroid wrote:
1.5-2 turns from full slow (Pushed 08 Roco TST coil, 550# Ti spring)

Anything faster/slower than that has been detrimental to performance.
yeah but what setting do you run your TST on
flag odin333
Posted: Jul 4, 2010 at 13:01 Quote
stryke wrote:
odin333 wrote:
you set your rebound as fast as you can WITHOUT it bucking you. faster rebound is better because it is going to track the ground better. if you set it too high its going to rebound too fast off of things like jumps and rock gardens and make your bike feel unstable and bouncy.

more like the opposite

it should be run as slow as possible without packing down, the bike will be more stable and you will have less pogo stick moments and the bike will be alot more planted

every suspension manual i've read has said to run it as fast as possible without it bucking you. if you run it slow as possible your reducing your traction and increasing the chance of it packing up.
flag stryke
Posted: Jul 4, 2010 at 13:11 Quote
if the fork is rebounding slower then how are you going to reduce traction? the bike is moving slower, your body is having to absorb less force to keep the wheel on the ground
flag killerbikeman
Posted: Jul 4, 2010 at 13:13 Quote
stryke wrote:
if the fork is rebounding slower then how are you going to reduce traction? the bike is moving slower, your body is having to absorb less force to keep the wheel on the ground
if it rebounds slower the less time your front wheel in is on the ground. you hid a rock it takes time for the fork to spring back thats time your front wheel is off the ground aka less traction more rebound the faster it hits the ground again

 


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