Home Made Bikes

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Posted: May 19, 2016 at 19:45 Quote
johan90 wrote:
Basically I want a Alfine hub mounted as close to the seattube as possible. More or less just as on the Zerode G2 and for the exact same reason to get a "gearbox". I would have, if I had the means and skill to build my own frame, mounted it with two stays. One coming up from the downtube that would intersect with another from the seattube, were the intersection is as close to the bb as possible.

I don't think that's enough for someone to go out and build something for you... there's a lot of detail that goes into a gearbox... you've basically just said, "just put an alfine hub in there, between the downtube and the seat tube".

I don't actually think I've ever seen a zerode-style alfine-based system for a hardtail - anyone else?

Posted: May 19, 2016 at 21:44 Quote
johan90 wrote:
Anyone care to give me a quote on what they would charge for making a hardtail frame? With standardish geometry, I would like roughly a 60mm bb drop, 65 ha with a 100mm fork, 420 cs, 430 reach and 71 sta, a 1.5 ht diameter.

Plus I would want to know what extra it would be if it had a Alfine, ala Zerode, mounted?


A swedish metalworker didnt feel like 1500 euros would be enough. Seems like that would be quite alot for a few welded tubes of steel, with a couple of extra stays to mount the alfine?

If he wasn't set up to make a bike frame, is not surprising that he said that. Jigs are expensive and time consuming to make, that would probably take him three days minimum to do right... There's your 1500 euro gone and he hasn't even started the frame.

But those of us that are set up already are pretty much all gonna charge you the same, for good reason. Materials will always be a minimum of $300au, ranging up to $600au for a hard tail. Then allow between one and two days labour for the build, and $150 for powder coat and consumables. Hence me charging a minimum of $800 up to $1500au for a hard tail, depending on how fancy it is.

That's just how it is. Those figures would probably match quite well to btr's quote of £1000.

Posted: May 20, 2016 at 1:12 Quote
Just to clarify here, BTR have not quoted, but BTR do custom geometry on their own frames or oddities for about £1000.
I need to pop over and see them/the Bicycle academy lot later today (with my home build) so I will ask what they would do something like this for, I bet it's a bit more than 1g.

Posted: May 20, 2016 at 2:12 Quote
R-trailking-S wrote:
Scotj009 wrote:
John, if you do not have the skills have you considered trying to learn, Im aiming to do a ht for my a level but after a couple of hours research I'm starting to think £1000 for a custom btr is cheap, all the bits like the disc mounts and the bb and the headset have to be exact, do you know how hard it is to do that, its bloody hard unless you buy £10,000 CNC lathe and software to go with it, then you have to learn how to use the bloddy thing, 1500 seems like a bargain for what you want Eek

I am 1000% certain no one uses cnc software to align and face bb's/headsets. All these things can and have been done manually. Brake tabs can be bought. A jig can be made for less than 200USD. Tubes could be bought for 175USD. A mig welder can be had used for 350USD. If you really had to, the tube mitering could be done with a lawn mower engine and a sanding belt. You could spend less than 1000USD on a frame of your chosing in some crazy custom color and have a shop face the bb and headset. And then build another.

well there you go, proves i know f*ck all lol

Posted: May 20, 2016 at 5:01 Quote
The real costly bit is the labor. You can make a jig almost for free, if you have a bunch a steel in your shed and a welder, and the skills to make something straight in every direction. The frame tubes are as expensive as they are, and you can mitre them with a grinder.
But add days of someone else's labor, and it becomes expensive. Do it yourself, and it's cheap (in a way).

Posted: May 20, 2016 at 10:14 Quote
madm3chanic wrote:
The real costly bit is the labor. You can make a jig almost for free, if you have a bunch a steel in your shed and a welder, and the skills to make something straight in every direction. The frame tubes are as expensive as they are, and you can mitre them with a grinder.
But add days of someone else's labor, and it becomes expensive. Do it yourself, and it's cheap (in a way).


Plus its not as Sweden is cheap on labour and I would guess this would be an on the books build so that bumps the labour cost up about double.



For me its the exact same reason to put a "gearbox" on a hardtail, clearance, less maintenance and especially the ability to shift while coasting.

Posted: May 20, 2016 at 13:55 Quote
Anybody got any standards documentation around stuff like brake mounts, headset, BB, rear derailleur etc, everything bike frame related really. Any input would be really helpful, if found the odd google image of an old drawing but not sure I can trust them haha Big Grin .

Cheers

Posted: May 20, 2016 at 13:58 Quote
Tom-Donaldson wrote:
Anybody got any standards documentation around stuff like brake mounts, headset, BB, rear derailleur etc, everything bike frame related really. Any input would be really helpful, if found the odd google image of an old drawing but not sure I can trust them haha Big Grin .

Cheers
For headset stuff cane creek has a few documents with anything you'd ever want to know. All the sizes, types, tolerances, etc. Linky.

Posted: May 20, 2016 at 14:00 Quote
Any of you guys heard of durafix rods?

The temperature is 398°C, would it be good for frame repair?


Posted: May 21, 2016 at 7:11 Quote
that looks interesting.... would have loved that when i was making angle alluminum mounts for Webasto heaters on yatchs 20 years ago.....

Posted: May 23, 2016 at 5:21 Quote
Tom-Donaldson wrote:
Anybody got any standards documentation around stuff like brake mounts, headset, BB, rear derailleur etc, everything bike frame related really. Any input would be really helpful, if found the odd google image of an old drawing but not sure I can trust them haha Big Grin .

Cheers

Have you looked at Grabcad?

Posted: May 23, 2016 at 5:21 Quote
Re Durafix - I suspect it is a zinc alloy like the lumiweld and other aluminium repair systems. There are other things out there like this:https://www.aluminumrepair.com/hts-2000-second-generation-fluxless-brazing-rod/
Was going to use it to repair some kurb rash on some alloy wheels but apparently it comes out a slightly different colour so never bothered to investigate further.
Apparently it's brilliant for repairing car radiators and intercoolers etc.

I stuck my head in to the bicycle academy on Friday and got a chance to speak to BTR about a custom build with an Alfine hub, way over £1000 was the response.

Finished the home build up just in time for a day at bike park wales on Thursday, she did well and has come back with no creaks or rattles.

Post BPW photo courtesy of TBA https://www.facebook.com/TheBicycleAcademy/photos/a.219359478081829.63370.218788201472290/1271104419573991/?type=3&theater

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t157/ka_screech/Prototype%20434/13112885_1271104419573991_3996186097919103958_o_zpsuaxxkd33.jpg
Will post the Geo up later as I can't remember everything off the top of my head.

Head angle - 63.2
BB - 14"
Chain stays - 420mm (grows with compression)
Wheel base - 1160mm
Travel - 185mm (2.9:1 rising to 2.4:1)

Posted: May 23, 2016 at 10:07 Quote
l-plates wrote:
Re Durafix - I suspect it is a zinc alloy like the lumiweld and other aluminium repair systems. There are other things out there like this:https://www.aluminumrepair.com/hts-2000-second-generation-fluxless-brazing-rod/
Was going to use it to repair some kurb rash on some alloy wheels but apparently it comes out a slightly different colour so never bothered to investigate further.
Apparently it's brilliant for repairing car radiators and intercoolers etc.

I stuck my head in to the bicycle academy on Friday and got a chance to speak to BTR about a custom build with an Alfine hub, way over £1000 was the response.

Finished the home build up just in time for a day at bike park wales on Thursday, she did well and has come back with no creaks or rattles.

Post BPW photo courtesy of TBA https://www.facebook.com/TheBicycleAcademy/photos/a.219359478081829.63370.218788201472290/1271104419573991/?type=3&theater

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t157/ka_screech/Prototype%20434/13112885_1271104419573991_3996186097919103958_o_zpsuaxxkd33.jpg
Will post the Geo up later as I can't remember everything off the top of my head.

Head angle - 63.2
BB - 14"
Chain stays - 420mm (grows with compression)
Wheel base - 1160mm
Travel - 185mm (2.9:1 rising to 2.4:1)

Looks awesome I-Plates! Looks quite different to more normal stuff. You planning to paint it or just leave it as it is? Seen as it looks so sweet design wise would be a shame not to finish it off with a nice fresh powder coat Wink

Posted: May 24, 2016 at 0:57 Quote
Just been painted in a graphite grey with the links and dropouts polished up. tup
I just ran out of time before our bike park wales trip, I was tweaking the linkage 8pm the night before!

Picked the Geo up this morning:
Seat tube Centre to top - 450mm (17.75") @ 73.7 degrees
Stand over - 760mm (30")

Top tube - 535mm (21.75")
Effective TT - 585mm (23")

The 420mm chain stays may sound short but the pivot is high and makes the bike longer at sag, the effective chain stay length at sag is something like 430mm and about 450mm at bottom out, because it grows as you push into it is stays lively around sag and stable when your in the travel. It is the same trick that commercial have pulled with the new V4 and why bikes like the Cranfield Jedi and Balfa feel so stable in the rough.

Posted: May 30, 2016 at 11:52 Quote
Home made bamboo gravel cyclo cross bike

Just finished building up a bamboo gravel / cyclocross frame.


 
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