Home Made Bikes

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flag R-M-R
Posted: Nov 23, 2020 at 20:11 Quote
Glad you're enjoying the fruits of your labour and thank you for sharing your learnings!
flag SleepingAwake
Posted: Nov 23, 2020 at 23:55 Quote
cholack wrote:
photo


I have made two aluminum frames, I used DEDACCIAI 7005 Aluminum. I purchased the tubes and associated frame parts from bike fab supply. This is my track bike that I built a few months ago.
This is really nice! I was never as nervous on a bike as the on the one evening I spent in the Velodrome of the UCI. Man those tracks are steep!
flag dump
Posted: Nov 24, 2020 at 6:25 Quote
@cholack, the bike looks great. Congrats!

How did you handle heat treating?
flag cholack
Posted: Nov 24, 2020 at 10:29 Quote
dump wrote:
@cholack, the bike looks great. Congrats!

How did you handle heat treating?

I used a local powdercoater, there is also a local welding shop with a heat treat oven. If I start building more Aluminum frames I might try and build an oven.
flag anoplura
Posted: Nov 29, 2020 at 19:21 Quote
cedrico wrote:
anoplura wrote:
If you do end up heat-treating a frame - aluminum or steel - don't forget to cold-set it back into alignment. It will warp.

This is not to scare anyone off of heat treating. As Compositepro suggests, it's probably easier and cheaper to find an appropriate oven than you think. Cold-setting can be done to very high accuracy with just lumber, string and the cheap-but-accurate digital micrometers you can get online for ~$30USD.*

*(I strongly recommend the ones that allow you to switch between Metric, Decimal Inches, and Fractional Inches. It'll save you a lot of time when dealing with anything that some {probably American} dipshit specified in fractional inch measurements. ...likely because he {it was definitely a he} hadn't been informed that math had been invented, and that it was actually pretty handy.)

A proper alignment table is also probably a lot less expensive and easier to build than you'd think. It makes frame alignment a lot easier and faster, but takes up a ton of space. So unless you are aiming to make frames for money, it's probably not worth it.

I'm intrigued. How do you check a frame's alignment with lumber, string, and a micrometer?

I've meant to reply to this a bunch of times, but 1. I'm lazy 2. It's hard to give a (useful) description without images, which I don't have handy. I finally decided to punt and just link to an old blog post by Dave Moulton (Masi, Fuso, etc.) which has most of the relevant info and pictures: http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2007/11/16/straightening-bent-seatstays.html

Basically, you pull the string tight across the head tube and dropouts and measure the distance from taut string to seat tube on each side to check gross alignment. Once that's set, you can repeat with the BB and head tube, seat tube and head tube, etc.

Lumber is used both for leverage when bending, and to provide support to specific areas you want to bend - without creating a sharp fulcrum.

For heat-treated steel or aluminum, I suggest cold-setting the frame into alignment, letting it rest at least 24 hours, and then repeating. It tends to have more memory than you'd expect.
flag rosemarywheel
Posted: Nov 30, 2020 at 14:25 Quote
Hi guys,

I was wondering if anyone new whether or not Titanium frames must be heat treated after welding like Aluminum frames? Thanks!
flag anoplura
Posted: Dec 1, 2020 at 1:16 Quote
rosemarywheel wrote:
Hi guys,

I was wondering if anyone new whether or not Titanium frames must be heat treated after welding like Aluminum frames? Thanks!

No. Unless you are working with some weird scrap Titanium from 20+ years ago, any Ti tubing you'll find these days is easy to weld (...assuming good anti-oxidation practices) and won't require any heat treating.

This is also true of much (...if not most) of the aluminum tubing you can buy today, as well. Most of what's labelled "7000 series" in the US doesn't require, or benefit from post-weld heat treating.
flag rosemarywheel
Posted: Dec 1, 2020 at 9:43 Quote
Thanks, Mate! good to hear.
flag DanAlmberg
O+
Posted: Dec 8, 2020 at 12:53 Quote
So my Pinion thing is comming along
photo
flag Zerknecht0r
Posted: Dec 8, 2020 at 13:41 Quote
Well, if we're at Pinion, let me show you the Shredmaster!

Frame Alu 7020 Full 29er Mullet same Geo Flipchip 500mm Reach HA 63 Chainstay options 440mm 450mm 148mm Boost Fork Boxxer Ultimate Damper EXT Arma 450 Brakes Shigura XT-MT5 Galfer 223mm 203mm Drive Pinion C-Line 6 Speed Gearbox Pinion cranks 165mm Xpedo Trident Pedal Wheels Pinion H2R Hope Pro4 Newmann EG 30 Maxxis Minion DHR 2 DH-Casing Cockpit FSA Gradient Direct Mount Reverse RCC 810 ESI Extra Chunky SDG I-Beam I-Fly 2.0 saddle Weight 17 9 kg incl. Pedals

The Frame was designed by a friend and me over the last year and has been finished last week.

Alu 7020 (Frame weight 3,7 Kg, incl. axles, no shock)
Full 29er or Mullet (via Flipchip, same Geo)
Pinion 6-Gear C-Line
500mm Reach
63 degree Head Angle
205 mm Travel
345 mm BB Height
440/450 mm Chainstays
custom chain tensioner

What do you think?
flag secondtimeuser
O+
Posted: Dec 8, 2020 at 14:00 Quote
Zerknecht0r wrote:

What do you think?
I think I'm in love!
flag DanAlmberg
O+
Posted: Dec 8, 2020 at 14:03 Quote
Nice that looks awsome!!! Great job and lots of custom bits Smile Geo is simmilar to mine DH bike. But the one im doing now is a trail bike.
flag whattheheel
Posted: Dec 8, 2020 at 14:34 Quote
MOAR PICTORZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Drool Drool Drool
flag Thepureface
Posted: Dec 8, 2020 at 15:05 Quote
That thing is awesome zerk
flag fantaman
Posted: Dec 8, 2020 at 15:42 Quote
That bike is insane Fab ,awesome jobBeer

 


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