You cant do anything about it. if your lucky, you can send it back to manitou and have them press a new one in for you, but it will cost upwards of 100 bucks, which may not be worth it.
if that is all there is to it to press the old one out and put a new one in thats nothing.if they cant get me one or replace it ill make one on the lathe and press it in myself lol done it with lots of crotch rockets
If it has a bolt on crown(s) you simply could find a steerer/crown assembly used that is longer and buy it. Other than that, if it is press fit into the crown and the crown is not bolt on, you would need to buy the whole new stanchion/crown/steerer assembly, which could get pricey. Then again, you could try doing it yourself like you stated, although I'm not sure how well that would go.
if that is all there is to it to press the old one out and put a new one in thats nothing.if they cant get me one or replace it ill make one on the lathe and press it in myself lol done it with lots of crotch rockets
Its not quite that simple. You see, the tollerances are so close between the outer diameter of the steerer tube and the inner diameter of the crown that the crown has to be super heated, and the steerer tube, cooled to a relatively low temperature. at this point, they are pressed in. Depending on the fork model and the shape/type of aluminum used on the crown, the crown may not have the integrity to have a new steerer pressed in.
All in all, dont try this one on your own. The possiblity for error is just too high to not have a professional do this.
the tollerances are so close between the outer diameter of the steerer tube and the inner diameter of the crown that the crown has to be super heated, and the steerer tube, cooled to a relatively low temperature.
~Mark
I know this is an old post.... But i found it as i'm doing the same thing at the minute to change a 1.5" steerer to a 1 1/8" i had to just say this is a bit of a misconception. When a metal is heated it expands in all directions... the hole in the crown actually gets smaller in this case. Sticking the new steerer in the freezer over night will make it contract in all directions though and it will be easier to press in.
Sounds like a great way to lose some teeth. The equipment and procedures used to accomplish this task are not likely available in most people's garages. If you have access to a well equipped machine shop maybe, but even then I would start with getting information from the MFR on the exact procedure as specific metal composition, glues, and temperatures could play a role. Any error could mean catastrophic failure. Having your front fork suddenly leave your bike is not a nice surprise, unfortunately I know from experience.
Having your front fork suddenly leave your bike is not a nice surprise, unfortunately I know from experience.
Tell us more, sounds like erm....'fun''' erm.....
Due to legalities after the lawsuit I cannot say who made said fork. However it was a linkage fork from the mid 90's with a chromoly steel lower. The rear suspension design by the same guy is still one of the most popular today. The brackets for the linkage we're poorly welded to the lower assembly. After the break you could see the left over welding rod inside the tubes where they puddle welded the tubes backup after blowing holes through the tubes. Everything was then ground smooth from the outside to make it appear there was no issue. I've got 3 false teeth to show for it and scar tissue in my upper lip.
Fork steerers are pressed in, much like headset cups, though forced in to a smaller hole, making a tight hold that's it, no super heating glowing red hot metal involved.
How It's Made - Mountain Bike Suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaZtVskNdrM
Fork steerers are pressed in, much like headset cups, though forced in to a smaller hole, making a tight hold that's it, no super heating glowing red hot metal involved.
How It's Made - Mountain Bike Suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaZtVskNdrM
I agree with this, but you would also know that metal deforms once pressed together. So unless you source an oversize steerer tube (good luck unless you have one machined) then I wouldnt suggest replacing the steerer tube on a Manitou fork. Buy the entire CSA.
I should've added, I wasn't claiming to get a new steerer pressed in, more on how they are fitted in production.
In answer to OP, buy a fork with sufficient steerer length for your frame headtube, headset, stem etc
Though if you already have a fork and the steerer is to short then there are steerer extenders available, but can look a little odd depending on which type. Some custom made ones can be had that insert into the steerer and bolted down via a deep set star nut, and have a thread on the extender for the top cap to press down the bearings.