why are my spokes loose after a few rides?

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
why are my spokes loose after a few rides?
  • Next Page
Author Message
flag bblades05
Posted: Sep 7, 2008 at 21:27 Quote
well i heard that with the pimp rims after a couple of rides you have to re tension them cause the spokes stretch. i just got a pimp wheelset and ill be careful to check them alot.
flag kev211
Posted: Sep 8, 2008 at 9:39 Quote
mooseman180 wrote:
i have a Q.
i just got my new ride and i dont want to take them in to be tightend. but if i do it myself how do i keep the rim true?

Buy a truing stand.
flag specializedrocks
Posted: Sep 15, 2008 at 21:05 Quote
if you have an atomlab rim dont you have to run atomlab nipples? because there stuff is different. I dont know this might be the problem
flag ezekiel
Posted: Sep 15, 2008 at 21:32 Quote
mooseman180 wrote:
i have a Q.
i just got my new ride and i dont want to take them in to be tightend. but if i do it myself how do i keep the rim true?

If you've never done it before, pay to have it done and ask to watch how the mechanic does it. You keep the rim true by knowing which spokes to tighten and loosen as you go. It seems like a very basic principle but it is very easy for a rookie to start into it and dig themselves a hole quick.

If you want to try it out, put a couple zip ties on an old fork (set the zip tie ends at equal distance to check that the wheel is spinning true) to use as a truing stand and try it out on an old wheel. Never use your new stuff to practice.
flag mooseman180
Posted: Sep 15, 2008 at 21:36 Quote
ezekiel wrote:
mooseman180 wrote:
i have a Q.
i just got my new ride and i dont want to take them in to be tightend. but if i do it myself how do i keep the rim true?

If you've never done it before, pay to have it done and ask to watch how the mechanic does it. You keep the rim true by knowing which spokes to tighten and loosen as you go. It seems like a very basic principle but it is very easy for a rookie to start into it and dig themselves a hole quick.

If you want to try it out, put a couple zip ties on an old fork (set the zip tie ends at equal distance to check that the wheel is spinning true) to use as a truing stand and try it out on an old wheel. Never use your new stuff to practice.

yea. my dad does it hes pretty good even without a truing standdd.

hmm thats a good idea=]
flag neex
Posted: Sep 16, 2008 at 20:58 Quote
mooseman180 wrote:
i have a Q.
i just got my new ride and i dont want to take them in to be tightend. but if i do it myself how do i keep the rim true?

This is a bit of an art and requires patience and understanding of what you're doing. There are lots of great articles online describing the process. The OP deals with improper tensioning of the wheels I would imagine. You're better to ride a cheap rim that's tensioned properly than a high end one with wind up or uneven tension. The best indication of tension or wind up issues is hearing a 'ping' when going on the first ride on new wheels. My wheel builds improved 10 fold after I really started to pay attention to wind up issues. You need to visualize that a spoke will get to the point due to poor lubrication or overtightening, that the spoke itself will turn rather than the nipple (this casues wind up and uneven tension). This situation will lead to your wheel going out of true because the spoke will 'unwind' when a load is placed on the wheel. This will happen to all of us when building and it's a regular process. The key is that every time you add a layer of tension, you need to grab the spokes at the crosses and push them together hard (towards each other and the hub). When I talk about pushing the spokes hard, you should use gloves because you will push hard enough to wreck your hands after while. If I build without using the gloves for relieving tension, my hands feel destroyed after (price of playing the hero I guess). Some builders will lay the rim down and push on the outer edge (I don't like this method myself). When you add your last layer of tension and have ultimately created a more or less true wheel, your efforts to unwind the spokes shouldn't create any difference in the truness of the wheel. This is what you're looking to acheive. I also found that using a tensionmeter helps considerably to iron out uneven tension issues.
Sorry for such a lengthy response but the truth is that more often than not, you will be able to build a better wheel than most shops (no disrespect) due to the fact that you have time on your side and you will take as long as you need to. The other thing to pay attention to is the you need to ensure that if you loosen spokes on one side, you tighten them on the other. Think of the relationship between the clutch and gas when driving (you need to add gas when letting off the clutch - poor example but I'm trying to illustrate that you need to add to one side what you remove from the other. If you have spokes coming out of true regularly, you likely have poorly built/tensioned wheels (stripped nipples, uneven or inaqequate tension, poor truing). Period. Staircases or not.
Unless you're bending rims due to riding them beyond the rim's ability or your skills need refinement. I would guess that unless wind up is your issue, you're likely not overtensioning the wheel. It's amazing how much tension a wheel can take before it collapses (unless you're riding racelites down the stairs)....


I hope this helps.
Andrew.
flag mooseman180
Posted: Sep 16, 2008 at 21:09 Quote
neex wrote:
mooseman180 wrote:
i have a Q.
i just got my new ride and i dont want to take them in to be tightend. but if i do it myself how do i keep the rim true?

This is a bit of an art and requires patience and understanding of what you're doing. There are lots of great articles online describing the process. The OP deals with improper tensioning of the wheels I would imagine. You're better to ride a cheap rim that's tensioned properly than a high end one with wind up or uneven tension. The best indication of tension or wind up issues is hearing a 'ping' when going on the first ride on new wheels. My wheel builds improved 10 fold after I really started to pay attention to wind up issues. You need to visualize that a spoke will get to the point due to poor lubrication or overtightening, that the spoke itself will turn rather than the nipple (this casues wind up and uneven tension). This situation will lead to your wheel going out of true because the spoke will 'unwind' when a load is placed on the wheel. This will happen to all of us when building and it's a regular process. The key is that every time you add a layer of tension, you need to grab the spokes at the crosses and push them together hard (towards each other and the hub). When I talk about pushing the spokes hard, you should use gloves because you will push hard enough to wreck your hands after while. If I build without using the gloves for relieving tension, my hands feel destroyed after (price of playing the hero I guess). Some builders will lay the rim down and push on the outer edge (I don't like this method myself). When you add your last layer of tension and have ultimately created a more or less true wheel, your efforts to unwind the spokes shouldn't create any difference in the truness of the wheel. This is what you're looking to acheive. I also found that using a tensionmeter helps considerably to iron out uneven tension issues.
Sorry for such a lengthy response but the truth is that more often than not, you will be able to build a better wheel than most shops (no disrespect) due to the fact that you have time on your side and you will take as long as you need to. The other thing to pay attention to is the you need to ensure that if you loosen spokes on one side, you tighten them on the other. Think of the relationship between the clutch and gas when driving (you need to add gas when letting off the clutch - poor example but I'm trying to illustrate that you need to add to one side what you remove from the other. If you have spokes coming out of true regularly, you likely have poorly built/tensioned wheels (stripped nipples, uneven or inaqequate tension, poor truing). Period. Staircases or not.
Unless you're bending rims due to riding them beyond the rim's ability or your skills need refinement. I would guess that unless wind up it your issue, you're likely not overtensioning the wheel. It's amazing how much tension a wheel can take before it collapses (unless you're riding racelites down the stairs)....


I hope this helps.
Andrew.

thanks =D
flag robschultz2
Posted: Sep 16, 2008 at 21:10 Quote
My new dt swiss wheels always loosened after a ride, but they only did that for a month or so now they stay tight. Might just be new rim teething problems.
flag mooseman180
Posted: Sep 16, 2008 at 21:12 Quote
bigpapi wrote:
AzNdevil wrote:
as topic..
is it because of my hub/spoke/rim?
im running a tank 10mm bolt skewer hub with dt 2.0mm spokes and an atomlab pimp rim
i tried replacing the spokes with atomlab spokes and it didnt help
i rma'ed the rim already due to cracked weld spot(rim splitted into a C shape) so im on my 2nd rim already and its doing the same thing

should i just apply loc-tite to the nipples after the rim has been trued to stop this or should i replace something else?

I have the same question about your mom why is she loose after only a couple rides??
your an idiot.
flag neex
Posted: Sep 16, 2008 at 21:24 Quote
[Quote="mooseman180"][Quote="bigpapi"]
AzNdevil wrote:
as topic..
is it because of my hub/spoke/rim?
im running a tank 10mm bolt skewer hub with dt 2.0mm spokes and an atomlab pimp rim
i tried replacing the spokes with atomlab spokes and it didnt help
i rma'ed the rim already due to cracked weld spot(rim splitted into a C shape) so im on my 2nd rim already and its doing the same thing

should i just apply loc-tite to the nipples after the rim has been trued to stop this or should i replace something else?


You might want to check a properly tensioned wheel and grab the spokes to **feel** how much tension you should have. My guess is that this has little to do with the spokes you have used and more with the build of the wheel or integrity of the rim (I wage bets on the former). Mom jokes aside, talk to some folks with a similar set up and no issues and see what their wheels feel like. Take your bike to a shop and ask a tech to take a 30 second look or to put a tensionmeter on a few spokes. I just read that you cracked the rim at the weld and this would happen easily with poorly tensioned wheels. You would literally be better off riding a properly tensioned road wheel carefully down a staircase than you would be to bomb it with a poorly tensioned DH or FR wheel. Your hub is likely solid, I doubt there's a bent axle although it might be worth checking, and again, above all else, ensure you have a properly built wheel.
Get a second opinion, buy a tougher rim maybe (don't thing this is the problem as most XC rims at proper tension will blow down staircases and take moderate drops all day long). No disrespect to the shop tech or anything but maybe have another shop or individual build and true the next wheel if you don't do it yourself? I bet you'll find that most people who learn to build their own wheels have few if any issues (with their wheels that is). If disc brake alignment was only that easy....

I suggest as a starting point to read Sheldon's article: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

Long live his memory! He will always be a huge inspiration to all of us (I will speak for myself and many others). RIP SB.


I hope this helps.
Andrew.
flag
Posted: Nov 29, 2010 at 22:02 Quote
AzNdevil wrote:
as topic..
is it because of my hub/spoke/rim?
im running a tank 10mm bolt skewer hub with dt 2.0mm spokes and an atomlab pimp rim
i tried replacing the spokes with atomlab spokes and it didnt help
i rma'ed the rim already due to cracked weld spot(rim splitted into a C shape) so im on my 2nd rim already and its doing the same thing

should i just apply loc-tite to the nipples after the rim has been trued to stop this or should i replace something else?
It sounds to me like the problem is the rider not doing routine maintance. just my 2 cents
flag killerbikeman
Posted: Nov 29, 2010 at 22:14 Quote
A wheel is like guitar strings...after they install new strings/ spokes and tension/tune them and you go to play/ ride your spokes/strings stretch causing you to have to re tension them. My shop says after 1-2 rides you should bring your wheel back in for a re tension. Are shop includes that in part of a wheel build charge
  • Next Page

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv65 0.014625
Mobile Version of Website