thanks guys this also helped me out too the 4 step one worked wonders.
if the crazks are x-type this is how you get the cranks off. Here is what you need:
an 8mm and 10mm allen wrench..thats all.
step 1:
loosen off the 10mm cap not all the way(so about 2-3 threads are still in tact.
step 2:
loosen off the 8mm bolt on the inside until you back it right into the 10mm cap.
step 3:
tighten the 10mm cap. (it may not seem possible and may feel like you may strip something but you wont). tighten its all the way in, you should be able to see the cranks slowly making its way off the axel.
step 4:
repeat the steps 1-3 until you can pull the crank arm off (you usually have to do it about 3 times)
and voila!
wrong forums but heres what i was talking about.
by doing that i stripped the crap out of the little shitty 10 mm bolt, what now
I may be totally wrong about this - but surely the simple thing to do, as opposed to the "4 step" method, is just to tighten the 10mm till it's fairly tight, then unscrew the 8mm one, and watch as it takes the crank arm out as you turn it. That way you avoid putting lots of force on the 10mm bolt, which may have been manufactured weaker, and you put all the force on the 8mm, which has been designed to take that amount of strain. certainly this is how it works with regular self-extracting crank bolts. maybe the raceface one is different?
poo. so you did. just beat me to the line - your comment wasn't there when i decided to reply. good to know someone is thinking the same thing as me though!
I came across this today, and once screwed up an endcap badly and needed to get it out! If you strip them I DONT recomend touching them or worrying about it unless you strip out your crank bolt. but if you do have an extra and want to swap a destroyed one, heres how I did it:
The problem is I stripped the 10mm cap, and it was in there GOOD. I used an easy out initially and the aluminum cap is so soft it just tore it to shreads. I thought i was up shit creek but it turns out damaging the cap so badly actually solves the problem.
Remove the 8mm bolt to "pull" the crank. The cap is so badly damaged that this tears out the center of the 10mm cap completely remove the 8mm bolt completely, leaveing the crank still fully installed on the bike. (NOTE - DONT do this without an extra cap as you will need a new one to pull your crank!)
I then took a casette tool (FR-5) I believe, which is the exact same size as the $40 splined easy out for pipe of the same ID, and i hammered the thing into the giagnormous hole the 8mm bolt rips in the cap head, and it fits perfect. Attach your socket wrench and viola, you can unscrew your left over threads from the cap without damaging your crank. Didn't even leave a scuff mark.
Beware these caps arent cheap, if you get a new crank keep the bolts and cap! Handy extra things to have around... Also as said before, dont remove these caps ever unless you truely have a valid reason. I wish to god they'd machine them out of something that wasnt silly putty.
I8 just did it this way after buying a crank puller without realising it was a self extracting crank, it worked very well for me, thanks man, once i had my crank arm off i realised that i had to remove my botto bracket as the chain guide arm (witch i was trying to remove) was behind the BB!!!its a raceface external, so i looked to my last resort which was to damege the arm so badly it just snapped , so i went to find my hacksaw, and the blade is blunt :\ . . . couldent find another blade so i did a proper poverty job and went at the bastard with a scarated knife from my kitchen cuboard, and a good half an hour later and a few nice deep scratches on the bottom of my frame later i had eventually got it off , I will post some pics up of my poverty job, but thanks for the advise guys!!!