Your Spray Painted Stuff?

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Your Spray Painted Stuff?
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Posted: Jul 11, 2019 at 14:27 Quote
I've painted lots of frames and have never done that. As long as the paint job is reasonably fresh it should be fine.

Posted: Jul 11, 2019 at 17:14 Quote
DJ-24 wrote:
I've painted lots of frames and have never done that. As long as the paint job is reasonably fresh it should be fine.

The object is, to let the color coat cure, then spray the clear. You get a tougher finish that way. Waaaay back when I use to custom paint motos and autos, that was SOP. Leaving the color uncured means your covering is up, and takes way more time to cure,unless you use accelerators..

Posted: Jul 12, 2019 at 15:42 Quote
DJ-24 wrote:
I've painted lots of frames and have never done that. As long as the paint job is reasonably fresh it should be fine.

I'm with you. My cred can be found be found in my photo collections.

Hey fenning, congrats on a nice paint job for a really good cause. Your cred appears self evident. Nice.

Posted: Jul 12, 2019 at 16:48 Quote
Guess I'm just Old school...What ever works for you, maybe the chems in today's paints have changed..?

I do agree, the bike looks great.

Posted: Jul 12, 2019 at 17:07 Quote
Hammer48 wrote:
Guess I'm just Old school...What ever works for you, maybe the chems in today's paints have changed..?

I do agree, the bike looks great.

Dunno if it's the contemporary chemicals or, like you said, standard operating guidelines, but it's easy to agree that there's different ways to skin a cat. The processes that I've been a part of never included any kind of a sanding coat on the initial paint finish regardless of the grit count. Especially the work I did as the usual time put in or the materials involved couldn't afford a mulligan. But upon finishing the paint job a clear coat was applied ASAP, and a high grit passing was then applied. Which of course was followed with another coat of clear, and the process then repeated itself.

Luckily I got far enough in the paint and design parts of the jobs that I didn't have to do anymore clears after a while though. It's hard work, rarely rewarded and mostly identified when done poorly as opposed to done well. when it's done well most observers just admire the paint job, not knowing how critical the clear is in highlighting the details.

Good points hammer. Got my brain running.

Posted: Jul 12, 2019 at 17:26 Quote
obee1 wrote:
Hammer48 wrote:
Guess I'm just Old school...What ever works for you, maybe the chems in today's paints have changed..?

I do agree, the bike looks great.

Dunno if it's the contemporary chemicals or, like you said, standard operating guidelines, but it's easy to agree that there's different ways to skin a cat. The processes that I've been a part of never included any kind of a sanding coat on the initial paint finish regardless of the grit count. Especially the work I did as the usual time put in or the materials involved couldn't afford a mulligan. But upon finishing the paint job a clear coat was applied ASAP, and a high grit passing was then applied. Which of course was followed with another coat of clear, and the process then repeated itself.

Luckily I got far enough in the paint and design parts of the jobs that I didn't have to do anymore clears after a while though. It's hard work, rarely rewarded and mostly identified when done poorly as opposed to done well. when it's done well most observers just admire the paint job, not knowing how critical the clear is in highlighting the details.

Good points hammer. Got my brain running.

I should have added that when I was painting for a living, it was in the mid 80's to early 90's, I'm sure a lot has changed since then. I do agree that the clear is an Important part of highlighting the color. Also, rarely if ever do the prep guys get any cred for doing a good job, color sanding in a pain in the a$$. Keep rocking the good paint stuff..Beer

O+
Posted: Jul 12, 2019 at 20:50 Quote
Thanks everyone! It's not perfect, but I'm happy with how it turned out. I used a steel putty to fill over the ugly welds (it was a low end frame to start with) and sanded and sanded and sanded some more. Then, I primed and sanded and primed and sanded...

I'm not sure how the paint will hold up long term since I used rattle cans, but I did put several coats of clear (minimum 48 hours between coats, per the directions on the can) like many people in this forum recommended. I just hope it sells for more than I put into it!

These are the jerseys I tried to match, I hope one of these guys end up with the bike.

photo

https://www.gforcefoundation.com/

Posted: Sep 19, 2019 at 9:53 Quote
Schwinn Rocket 88
Before and after custom paint and build

Schwinn Rocket 88 Before custom paint and build

Schwinn Rocket 88 Custom Paint Custom Build

Schwinn Rocket 88 Custom Paint Custom Build

Posted: Sep 19, 2019 at 18:28 Quote
Woah ! Nice job ! Modified retro restore, very cool ! Did you make that rear brake adapter?

Posted: Sep 19, 2019 at 18:42 Quote
Actually I took it off another frame on an old mtb I bought . The bike was an old Gary Fisher but I hadn't seen that kind of brake mount on a stock bike before. And thanks for the compliment on the finished product



slaker wrote:
Woah ! Nice job ! Modified retro restore, very cool ! Did you make that rear brake adapter?

Posted: May 7, 2020 at 9:12 Quote
Hopefully some people still read this, I'm clear-coating a frame atm, using halfords rattle can stuff, was hoping someone could give me some tips as I'm getting mixed results. Some coats are nice and smooth/shiny, whereas some are going on leaving the surface textured (not sure how best to word it) and not shiny.

I'm warming the can before each coat by leaving it in a jug of warmish water for 5 or so mins, spraying at roughly the same speed each time (I think) and holding the can about 12-15cm away from the frame.

Anyone able to tell me where I'm going wrong/what the cause is?

Posted: May 7, 2020 at 9:19 Quote
Sand in between coats with some very fine sandpaper to get some of texture off, a lot of it could just be dust particles getting stuck to the wet paint as it dries so if you can cut down any sort of dust that can get to it while drying that will also help.

Posted: May 7, 2020 at 9:27 Quote
It's not dust as the surface is wiped before each coat with a tacky cloth and the difference is visible the second the paint hits the frame. I'll try and get a photo of the next coat.

I'm can't remember it happened when I did a 2nd coat on top of a layer that was already smooth/shinny, I'll pay more attention to that next time.

Posted: May 7, 2020 at 9:49 Quote
dingus wrote:
Hopefully some people still read this, I'm clear-coating a frame atm, using halfords rattle can stuff, was hoping someone could give me some tips as I'm getting mixed results. Some coats are nice and smooth/shiny, whereas some are going on leaving the surface textured (not sure how best to word it) and not shiny.

I'm warming the can before each coat by leaving it in a jug of warmish water for 5 or so mins, spraying at roughly the same speed each time (I think) and holding the can about 12-15cm away from the frame.

Anyone able to tell me where I'm going wrong/what the cause is?

Whats the ambient temperature you're spraying at?
Are you pre heating the surface you are spraying onto?
Are you spraying one "dust coat" followed by a full "wet coat"
How many coats are you applying?

Note: currently spraying a frame in the highlands too so dealing with the above in our yoyo scottish climate in tandem

Posted: May 7, 2020 at 11:40 Quote
Temperature was probably around 15°C, didn't heat the frame and it wasn't in the sunlight, over the course of a couple of hours today so no real change. Just did a single fairly wet pass per coat. I'd done a coat over some if not all of the frame some time last year, so I'm not sure exactly how many coats are on it, but I've done two coats on the seat tube and they seemed to be OK, did one on the side of the down tube which was fine then one on the underside of the downtube and it didn't leave a charlie sheen.


 


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