Anyone Have A DIY on Lowering a Marz 55R

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Anyone Have A DIY on Lowering a Marz 55R
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flag pbuser102331
Posted: Dec 9, 2008 at 10:07 Quote
AirForceOne wrote:
marquis wrote:
zip tie.
?

ghetto way,attach zip tie to fork brace and crown instant lowering.
flag AirForceOne
Posted: Dec 10, 2008 at 0:49 Quote
haha, cant say that I would do it myself lol
flag pbuser102331
Posted: Dec 10, 2008 at 3:01 Quote
AirForceOne wrote:
haha, cant say that I would do it myself lol

lol me neither but he asked for diy.
flag norcorider1010
O+
Posted: Dec 10, 2008 at 6:22 Quote
the pvc is 3/4 (20mm)
flag WasabiJim
Posted: May 2, 2009 at 16:57 Quote
thanks for all your help guys
i (with the help of the old man n his tools) was able to actually pull off the lowers get into the spring side and lower a set from 160 to 140mm

pretty simple, hardest part was catching all the oil and dealing with C-clips
flag bkchef2000
O+
Posted: May 8, 2009 at 6:27 Quote
Any chance anyone has pictures of the procedure or more clear coherent directions?
flag WasabiJim
Posted: May 8, 2009 at 20:22 Quote
bkchef2000 wrote:
Any chance anyone has pictures of the procedure or more clear coherent directions?

Lol I know what you mean, i'll have a go.

I didnt remove the fork from the bike or use a bike stand, tho it wouldnt hurt using them. The only special tools you need are C-clip pliers and the casette removal piece.

1.With the fork upright, remove all air with a shock pump. Using the casette remover tool screw out the top cap.

2.Inside you may see a preload spacer on top of the main spring, take these out being ready to catch any oil if you tip the fork up. Catching the oil turn the fork upside down, pump the travel to assist all the oil out. It will continue to drip so use something to catch the drops.

3.With a 15mm socket remove the 2 nuts on the bottem of each leg. You may need to grind the socket to fit, but the nuts arent tight so another handy tool may do the job. The lowers will pull off, you dont need to touch the dampening side anymore.

4.At the end of the airside stanchion there is a C-clip inside. Take this out, then flip the fork upright and the remaining internals will fall out.

## this is the tricky part cause its hard to understand how the fork works, so its best not to think about it, you'll only get a headache unless u r a smarty pants ##

5.There is a rod with a trumpted top end with a small top-out spring that is kept on the rod because of the trumpting. The rod slides thru the round piece that was kept in place by the C-clip. I think there is a nut on the bottem end of the rod that needs to be screwed off.

##Between the top-out spring and that C-clipped piece is where you put your travel spacer. It needs to fit over the rod, sit flush on the spring, and not fit thru the C-clipped piece.##

I used 20mm PVC pipe as my spacer. It seemed the C-clipped piece was slightly fluted so the spacer wedged into it about 5mm then jammed tight, so test before you cut it to size. The length of the exposed spacer with determine how much travel is reduced.

6.Time to re-assemble the fork! Replace that nut on the end of the rod, drop it all back into the stanchion. Re-install the C-clip, 10 points to Griffindroff if you get it frist go. Lowers next. Flip the fork upright and in goes the main spring. It wont fit in completely now, so you wont need the pre-load spacer if you had one. Tip oil back in or go with some fresh oil, 5wt. Fighting the spring screw the top cap back in.

7.Set-up. The spring will be stiffer, so less air is needed and rebond readjusted. I was setting the fork up for my dad so we didnt add any air, infact I compressed the fork ¾ and removed the air so that is was slightly negatively pressurised when returned to full extention. Pefect spring strength for his 65kgs.

Enjoy!
flag ratherberidin
O+
Posted: Jun 3, 2009 at 20:49 Quote
does doing this make your fork rebound go super high?????
flag WasabiJim
Posted: Jun 4, 2009 at 3:28 Quote
super high? as in faster? or needing to be turned right up?
the spring will be preloaded but essientally the spring rate is the same but the starting resistance will be stronger.
it may need to be increased slightly

EDIT - the rebound turned up that is
flag WasabiJim
Posted: Jun 4, 2009 at 17:50 Quote
it shouldnt do but if it does its nothing outside what the fork can be adjusted to cope with.
flag ratherberidin
O+
Posted: Jun 4, 2009 at 18:11 Quote
did you do this, and if you did how does it feel
flag triptex
Posted: Jun 5, 2009 at 5:35 Quote
I want some details guys.

Who lowered their 55 and can you compare it something similar in terms of performance?
flag eisernes
Posted: Jun 5, 2009 at 5:37 Quote
search the forum theres a thread of it, not trying to be a a*shole, but yea i would post the link but its on my computer at home and im at school.

EDIT: here it is.

https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=15445
flag triptex
Posted: Jun 5, 2009 at 5:44 Quote
eisernes wrote:
search the forum theres a thread of it, not trying to be a a*shole, but yea i would post the link but its on my computer at home and im at school.

EDIT: here it is.

https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=15445

I did use the search.. this is the tread I found.. Thanks for trying though.

I didnt ask for a DIY I want some of the people in this thread to comment on the performance.

 


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