How to strip, raw, paint, and coat your bike!

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How to strip, raw, paint, and coat your bike!
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Posted: May 9, 2013 at 9:00 Quote
Pink bikes here i come Big Grin

Posted: Sep 12, 2013 at 13:36 Quote
Does Hammerite work as a primer and main coat, and if so can i just raw it then spray that on?

Posted: Mar 20, 2014 at 8:12 Quote
What is the best stripper for an Aluminum bike frame? Can I use the same stripper as you show for the steel frame? I don't want to damage the Aluminum.
Tom B.

Posted: Jun 22, 2014 at 13:19 Quote
Allright, So I have my frame apart, and I'm about to apply the paint stripper. But afterward, should I dry it off, clean it with rubbing alcohol, then clear coat it, or do I have to sand it a little to get the clear coat to stick on? Had a quick read thru the last couple of pages, didn't see anything about this. The frame is a Rocky slayer.

My inspiration for my bike was this one:
http://instagram.com/p/XLMUkTEku5/

I just don't know if I should clear coat it first so the alu doesn't "rust" (I know it doesn't but I remember reading somewhere that it corrodes and leaves a white film on top of the alu.) Heelllpp meee!!!

For reference this helps me but not enough:
http://www.theruststore.com/Does-Aluminum-Rust-W26C2.aspx

Posted: Jun 25, 2014 at 0:45 Quote
Yes, roughen it up a little before applying clear coat.

Posted: Jul 20, 2014 at 18:14 Quote
I have a spank tweet frame in red, and the red paint is scratching and chipping off to show a chrome/polished layer underneath. I want to remove all the red and get it down to this polished finish underneath.Will paint stripper do this or will it eat through the polished layer underneath too? I want to sand it as little as possible to avoid scratching the polished layer.
Thanks in advance Salute

Posted: Jul 26, 2014 at 2:57 Quote
Though i would add to the thread with my forks
[P=http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?265700-Marzocchi-55-CR-Forks-2013&p=2849804#post2849804 size=m align=c][/P]

Posted: Aug 22, 2014 at 2:44 Quote
Merida paint job
  Merida paint job
Merida paint job

Some of my work. It started out as an ugly olive green colour with gold flake. The frame was stripped and sanded then primed, painted and decals applied then clear coated.


When I eventually get around to it, I'll paint the suspension linkage and drop out things metalic blue. Got blue bars, brake lines and cables.

Posted: Oct 23, 2014 at 9:01 Quote
Anybody ever used dry ice blasting to raw the frame of a bike? It says that it doesnt affect the surface of the metal. I want to raw my frame and have a guy that works on a company that they do sandblasting,hydroblasting,glassblasting and dry ice blasting. Please let me know.

Posted: Nov 3, 2014 at 14:31 Quote

here's mine, did a matt clearcoat on the rawed frame. Just wish the quality was a little better though!

Posted: Apr 4, 2015 at 6:51 Quote
I don't want to Necro post, But I see that it's been done a few times on this thread. I believe I can offer some insight as I refinish aircraft and am familiar with aluminum.
1. When purchasing stripper, get the stuff that is rated for aluminum, in dealing with aircraft we use a ammonia based stripper, after the paint bubbles up, you can scrape it with a plastic or metal scraper, I would not recommend using a razor blade as they can gouge the metal. REMEMBER STRIPPER IS CORROSIVE!!!!!!! wear your PPE.
2. When hand sanding go from 100 grit to get rid of the bulk of leftover stuff and then once all the major paint is off, you will end up having to go down to like 400 to 600 grit. even 320 grit you can still see the sanding marks because hands are not evenly pressured and you will leave deep marks. So do it smartly. You may even consider wet sanding.
3. Fill in any dents with Bondo, and sand til smooth. It will make the job look 100x's more professional.
4. Once all that is finished now is the time to start prepping for paint.
5. Blow off the dust with compressed air.
5a. We use a product called 3812s made by DuPont ($40.00/US gal) it will clean the metal so that you get the most dirt off you can for maximum adhesion. Use one wet rag and one dry. wipe wet and then wipe dry. this stuff dries FAST so you need to move. Fold rags in quarters so you can use them to their potential and not waste your money. It gets dirty, flip it over to a clean square. You can probably use something else like paint thinner if you have it.
5b. Tack cloth. DO NOT PRESS HARD with the cloth. It will leave glue residue and it will look like crap.
6. Prime the bare metal. Use a self etching primer, use a primer that you don't have to sand. It makes life much easier. I say do 2-3 coats. After prime is dry tack cloth it again.
7. Tape/cover any areas you don't want painted as your base coat. (maybe you'll use white maybe another color)
7a, Base coat 2-3 layers
7b. Shouldn't need to sand it.
8. lay out your design/stencils
9. cover areas not to get painted by design.
paint design, and peel tape smartly and fairly soon after paint is dry, if you wait too long the paint will stick to the tape a rip the design off.

Clear coat, multiple times.

Any questions let me know I hope this helps Smile

Posted: Jul 29, 2015 at 14:26 Quote
any ideas of the best way to get paint of my orange five? I've been reading through and the stuff everyone using is not strong enough sadly

Posted: Sep 3, 2015 at 6:25 Quote
Whipdat wrote:
any ideas of the best way to get paint of my orange five? I've been reading through and the stuff everyone using is not strong enough sadly

there is automotive and aircraft stripper. both are way gnarlier but typically either come in a giant tub of brush on or spray cans that fall short of a frame size. that being said I have had luck with one can of the automotive and give a a good once over. that usually gets under the paints skin enough to finish the job with the slower working paint and epoxy stripper that you find in a hardware store. Keep in mind that the hardware type takes a good 10-15 minutes to start working so maybe you just didn't wait long enough. the auto stuff start at it almost immediately.

You can also try a heat gun with the brush on gel type from the hardware store as it takes longer to dry out but the heat helps activate it.

here is a Surge I just did this last week


here is a Blue Pig I did earlier this year here is a shot of the auto spray it works almost immediately


finished product

R.I.P. Pig XOXO
  R.I.P. Pig XOXO

Posted: Mar 13, 2017 at 20:40 Quote
I realize this thread is old as f*ck, but I want to raw my wheels. would doing this make the tire bead worse? I run tubes so I don't think so but eh. also would i have to take the hub and spokes out? and im sure I would have to replay the wheel tape.

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