Hi guys, I'm planning to do service on my 2020 Fox rhythm 34 fork 140mm
My questions are: what oil and how much goes in lover left leg? Leg where we pump air what oil and how much goes in upper left leg? what oil and how much goes in lover right leg? Leg where is lockout
I was checking on Fox web-site but I'm confused by their table...
I was watching some videos and it is mentioned importance of correct amount of fox oil, but for every fox fork there is different amount depending of travel and damper model. So I'm confused...
I was uploaded photos' so that you can see what model of fork I have.
Please reply only if you have experience with this kind of things!
40ml of fox 5wt teflon in the damper side lower leg. 10ml of fox 20wt gold in the air side lower leg. 3ml of fox 20wt gold in the air chamber + slickoleum grease on the piston seal.
40ml of fox 5wt teflon in the damper side lower leg. 10ml of fox 20wt gold in the air side lower leg. 3ml of fox 20wt gold in the air chamber + slickoleum grease on the piston seal.
Has anyone running a 38 found it to have any quirks or tendencies that I should be prepared for? I’ve got one coming and just want to make sure I get the most out of it.
Thanks
Replace your semibath oil ASAP, if only to verify that some is in there to prevent premature wear of bushings
Hi guys, im planning to upgrade my rear shock on fuel ex 8 2020 model.
I have found online good deal for super deluxe select + for Sante Cruz Hecler.
Size of the shock is same like on my bike 210x55.
So my question is, will this swap of rear shock which is tuned for different bike effect somehow negatively on my bike?
Thanks in advance for help!
My guess is that an ‘upgraded’ shock, even with the wrong tune, will feel as good or better than the stock shock. When it is time for a service, you can probably find someone to return it to fit your bike if needed. All of this is dependent on you setting your shock up well to begin with. If your current shock feels bad because you set it up poorly, your results on a new one will probably not be much better.
Hi I have a fox 38 performance that I have had for around 6 months. The stock damper has been acceptable but not nearly as good as my older fox 36 factory. My question it if anyone knows if the grip damper adjusts just LSC or HSC too? And if it doesn’t is it worth the $400 for the upgrade to the grip 2 damper?
Hi I have a fox 38 performance that I have had for around 6 months. The stock damper has been acceptable but not nearly as good as my older fox 36 factory. My question it if anyone knows if the grip damper adjusts just LSC or HSC too? And if it doesn’t is it worth the $400 for the upgrade to the grip 2 damper?
It’s just low speed. I have an upgraded 38 with the grip 2 and it’s the bomb. If you can swing it, I’d say it’s worth it.
Hi I have a fox 38 performance that I have had for around 6 months. The stock damper has been acceptable but not nearly as good as my older fox 36 factory. My question it if anyone knows if the grip damper adjusts just LSC or HSC too? And if it doesn’t is it worth the $400 for the upgrade to the grip 2 damper?
It’s just low speed. I have an upgraded 38 with the grip 2 and it’s the bomb. If you can swing it, I’d say it’s worth it.[/Quote Ok thanks for the info!
Grip damper is excellent. Ive noticed fox forks sometimes come from the factory with a grease filled negative air spring. Thats worth checking out to increase sensitivity before going for the grip 2 imo
Grip damper is excellent. Ive noticed fox forks sometimes come from the factory with a grease filled negative air spring. Thats worth checking out to increase sensitivity before going for the grip 2 imo
That’s a good point. Also, worth going through a thorough setup process to make sure the fork is performing as well as possible.
There is a loose but useful way of thinking of the difference between low and high speed compression. Lsc generally controls input from the top down, ie your bodyweight and rider inputs compressing the suspension. The more lsc you run, the more support you will have to push against while trying to move the bike around, and the more it will resist brake dive etc. The bike will generally feel stable and poppy instead of like riding a lurching waterbed. The downside being that it will feel harsher and more tiring to ride over rough terrain, and the tyre will not be able to track the ground as seamlessly. Hsc generally controls inputs from the ground up ie. hitting rocks etc. Running over anything more significant than smooth undulations in the terrain will likely blow into the high speed circuit. The effect of adding hsc is more difficult to describe. Essentially adding hsc should mean you use less travel for a given hit. The more you add the harsher the bike will feel, but the more travel it will keep in reserve for bigger hits. Low speed adjusters almost always control the size of an orifice which allows fluid to bleed through. High speed adjusters ideally adjust the stiffness of a shim stack, but more often simply add preload to a spring, which alters the blow off threshold. This isnt really a true high speed adjustment, instead controlling the amount of force required to open the high speed circuit.
Generally (true) hsc is reasonably set and forget. Find a setting that means you use near full travel for the biggest hits you regularly encounter. Then leave it there. You want to run as little hsc as possible without bottoming out too often.
Low speed is much more tuneable from track to track. This is the dial you should mess with the most. Generally the smoother and flowier the track the more lsc you run. The rougher the track the less lsc you can get away with. A stable and responsive bike is generally a good thing, so you want to run as much lsc as you can get away with without making the bike too harsh. The rougher the track, the less lsc you can run. Most other settings can generally be left untouched unless you are riding terrain conpletely different to your normal riding.