Suspension SETUP, a 'how to' guide...

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Suspension SETUP, a 'how to' guide...
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Posted: Mar 19, 2024 at 9:33 Quote
Southeast-Shredder wrote:
My 2020 Rockshox Yari refuses to fully bottom out and feels out of touch with my rear shock, red on bike radar that i should remove the preinstalled tokens. Any tips would be appreciated. Smile

I took the tokens out of my 2021 Yari and haven’t looked back. That is the most obvious and easy fix. Start there.

But here is the main issue: the damper on the Yari is a complete piece. My Yari fork was seriously underperforming until I upgraded the damper, now it’s a Lyrik. I found the lyrik damper for under $200; there are good deals out there for older versions of the Charger damper. The Yari comes with the motion control damper, and if you ride a lot and are trying to get as much performance as possible out of that setup, I would ditch the MC for the Charger asap.

To answer your question more directly, my approach is to save that last 10% of the travel in the fork for safety, those once per year “oh shit” moments where using that last bit of travel saved me from a catastrophic crash. This is just one approach and I would be interested to hear if people bottom out there fork as much as the shock.

You will want to reset your bike suspension and adjust combinations of pressure, and rebound so the bike is balanced and not “out of touch” (if that’s what you mean by those words). Having a good fork damper goes a long long way towards this. Write down settings and make single adjustments at a time, then experiment.

Usually though, the most common reason people don’t use all their travel is because they are overbiked for the terrain and/or aren’t putting the necessary technique and physicality into the frame to justify all the travel they have. And I mean that very objectively and no judgement.

Posted: Mar 19, 2024 at 10:13 Quote
freeridemafia420 wrote:
Southeast-Shredder wrote:
My 2020 Rockshox Yari refuses to fully bottom out and feels out of touch with my rear shock, red on bike radar that i should remove the preinstalled tokens. Any tips would be appreciated. Smile

I took the tokens out of my 2021 Yari and haven’t looked back. That is the most obvious and easy fix. Start there.

But here is the main issue: the damper on the Yari is a complete piece. My Yari fork was seriously underperforming until I upgraded the damper, now it’s a Lyrik. I found the lyrik damper for under $200; there are good deals out there for older versions of the Charger damper. The Yari comes with the motion control damper, and if you ride a lot and are trying to get as much performance as possible out of that setup, I would ditch the MC for the Charger asap.

To answer your question more directly, my approach is to save that last 10% of the travel in the fork for safety, those once per year “oh shit” moments where using that last bit of travel saved me from a catastrophic crash. This is just one approach and I would be interested to hear if people bottom out there fork as much as the shock.

You will want to reset your bike suspension and adjust combinations of pressure, and rebound so the bike is balanced and not “out of touch” (if that’s what you mean by those words). Having a good fork damper goes a long long way towards this. Write down settings and make single adjustments at a time, then experiment.

Usually though, the most common reason people don’t use all their travel is because they are overbiked for the terrain and/or aren’t putting the necessary technique and physicality into the frame to justify all the travel they have. And I mean that very objectively and no judgement.

Thanks for the feedback, do i have to set the air pressure up differently when i remove the tokens?

Posted: Mar 19, 2024 at 13:51 Quote
Southeast-Shredder wrote:
freeridemafia420 wrote:
Southeast-Shredder wrote:
My 2020 Rockshox Yari refuses to fully bottom out and feels out of touch with my rear shock, red on bike radar that i should remove the preinstalled tokens. Any tips would be appreciated. Smile

I took the tokens out of my 2021 Yari and haven’t looked back. That is the most obvious and easy fix. Start there.

But here is the main issue: the damper on the Yari is a complete piece. My Yari fork was seriously underperforming until I upgraded the damper, now it’s a Lyrik. I found the lyrik damper for under $200; there are good deals out there for older versions of the Charger damper. The Yari comes with the motion control damper, and if you ride a lot and are trying to get as much performance as possible out of that setup, I would ditch the MC for the Charger asap.

To answer your question more directly, my approach is to save that last 10% of the travel in the fork for safety, those once per year “oh shit” moments where using that last bit of travel saved me from a catastrophic crash. This is just one approach and I would be interested to hear if people bottom out there fork as much as the shock.

You will want to reset your bike suspension and adjust combinations of pressure, and rebound so the bike is balanced and not “out of touch” (if that’s what you mean by those words). Having a good fork damper goes a long long way towards this. Write down settings and make single adjustments at a time, then experiment.

Usually though, the most common reason people don’t use all their travel is because they are overbiked for the terrain and/or aren’t putting the necessary technique and physicality into the frame to justify all the travel they have. And I mean that very objectively and no judgement.

Thanks for the feedback, do i have to set the air pressure up differently when i remove the tokens?

You’re very welcome. I hope that’s helpful.

I would not change the air pressure to start, but definitely ride the bike and see what you think. It gets a bit complicated, the theory with adding vs decreasing air pressure after you remove tokens, and seems very rider/style/terrain dependent. So I would just keep a log of suspension settings with numbers, as well as notes on what the bike felt like. If you are diligent about this you will dial in your suspension to an optimal degree over time, as well as develop a working knowledge on how suspension settings affect the ride characteristics.

Posted: Mar 19, 2024 at 15:39 Quote
freeridemafia420 wrote:


You’re very welcome. I hope that’s helpful.

I would not change the air pressure to start, but definitely ride the bike and see what you think. It gets a bit complicated, the theory with adding vs decreasing air pressure after you remove tokens, and seems very rider/style/terrain dependent. So I would just keep a log of suspension settings with numbers, as well as notes on what the bike felt like. If you are diligent about this you will dial in your suspension to an optimal degree over time, as well as develop a working knowledge on how suspension settings affect the ride characteristics.

+1 for (almost) all this. Log your settings and experiment. Dont focus too much on using full travel. Focus on getting the bike feeling balanced front to rear. Start w the same pressure as before you removed the tokens and let the ride feel guide you on whether or not you need to increase or decrease pressure to balance the front w the rear.

One thing I'm not fully sold on swapping the damper. Air spring characteristic matter much more than damper characteristics IME and it's a lot cheaper to mess with the air spring via pressure and tokens then it is to mess w or replace a damper. Start w the air spring turning and if you can't get it "good enough" w just their airspring tuning, only then should you consider the charger damper upgrade.

Posted: Mar 20, 2024 at 5:24 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
freeridemafia420 wrote:


You’re very welcome. I hope that’s helpful.

I would not change the air pressure to start, but definitely ride the bike and see what you think. It gets a bit complicated, the theory with adding vs decreasing air pressure after you remove tokens, and seems very rider/style/terrain dependent. So I would just keep a log of suspension settings with numbers, as well as notes on what the bike felt like. If you are diligent about this you will dial in your suspension to an optimal degree over time, as well as develop a working knowledge on how suspension settings affect the ride characteristics.

+1 for (almost) all this. Log your settings and experiment. Dont focus too much on using full travel. Focus on getting the bike feeling balanced front to rear. Start w the same pressure as before you removed the tokens and let the ride feel guide you on whether or not you need to increase or decrease pressure to balance the front w the rear.

One thing I'm not fully sold on swapping the damper. Air spring characteristic matter much more than damper characteristics IME and it's a lot cheaper to mess with the air spring via pressure and tokens then it is to mess w or replace a damper. Start w the air spring turning and if you can't get it "good enough" w just their airspring tuning, only then should you consider the charger damper upgrade.

tup Thanks for the added info

Posted: Mar 20, 2024 at 7:12 Quote
To be a bit more specific about MC vs charger damper: I felt the Yari with the MC damper was fine on moderate or easier trails. But, as my skills started to progress, the MC damper on the Yari would get quickly overwhelmed, especially on breaking bumps, higher speeds, tech.

And I am definitely not a fan of upgrades unless they are very necessary. Definitely play with other features before you upgrade. Too many fools out there will spend spend spend on upgrades when they don’t even know how to do a fundamental setup and balance pressures/rebound/compression, so definitely start with what you already have.

I was surprised how much a budget damper was holding me back, so just something to keep in mind.

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