Suspension SETUP, a 'how to' guide...

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Suspension SETUP, a 'how to' guide...
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Posted: Jan 9, 2012 at 10:45 Quote
Pretty sure the DHX air just blows

Posted: Jan 10, 2012 at 13:05 Quote
you are correct sir... they are impossiblle to set up "just right" there is always a compromise with a dhx air.

Posted: Jan 10, 2012 at 20:27 Quote
staike wrote:
No problem man. Smile Yep. 250 x 3.25" if it's a Fox spring. All other brands will label them 250 x 3". Only Fox adds the .25, so any 250 x 3 spring is fine.

thanks a lot man.. looking for it..

when i got the 250 spring, what setting should i put on it?

Posted: Jan 10, 2012 at 23:03 Quote
datoknakal wrote:
staike wrote:
No problem man. Smile Yep. 250 x 3.25" if it's a Fox spring. All other brands will label them 250 x 3". Only Fox adds the .25, so any 250 x 3 spring is fine.

thanks a lot man.. looking for it..

when i got the 250 spring, what setting should i put on it?

You would have to experiment. I hae two friends with the excact same bike and shock and they wigh the same as well, but their settings are totally different. Because of totally different riding styles. There is no "magic formula" that works for everyone. You will have to find your own settings, no one else can do it for you.

Start adjusting the rebound (red knob) to the point where it is fast, but not so fast rides like a pogostick. And not so slow it packs down. Then adjust low speed compression (blue knob on top) to your liking. And then high speed compression.

Posted: Jan 11, 2012 at 0:17 Quote
Cane creek is the shit

Posted: Jan 16, 2012 at 12:43 Quote
I have some service-setup question. I have rebuilt my Fox Van RC, I put 2,5 oil in it and schrader mod, nevermind. I wanted it to work little faster, I removed some shimms from compression and rebound. Compression is much better now, but rebound is the same as before. And now is the question. there are two things that affects rebound, shimms and a needle which is in shaft. So should i make somethong whith a needle, or remove the shimms? I acctualy dont get the role of shimms in rebounding.
Sorry for my "perfect" english, i hope it's understanable.
O, and a frame is Demo 2011

Posted: Jan 16, 2012 at 18:27 Quote
Basically the needle valve you speak of just alows oil to flow through a circuit quicker or slower depending on the way its dialed. What are you wanting to achieve? faster rebound or slower? Since I assume faster you could achieve this by dialing in less rebound or using a lighter weight oil, You could also use an orifice drill to drill out a rebound oil port to ake it slightly larger, but this will make the lower settings on the rebound dial impossiblle to achieve.

the shim stacks basicaly do the same, they restrict oil flow, spacing them out or removing them will cause a faster rebound, is my understanding, but having said that I;ve not done too much playing with shim stacks, many of my rebuilt forks are open bath marzocchis and dont have em.

Posted: Jan 16, 2012 at 18:40 Quote
I thought the shim stack affected compression more than rebound?

Posted: Jan 17, 2012 at 12:16 Quote
There might be a second piston and/or shimstack specific to rebound, so if you re-shim that you should be able to speed up the adjustment range (without drilling out the bleeder).

Posted: Jan 17, 2012 at 17:27 Quote
ftr, i dont recomend drilling out anything... I should;ve mentioned that in my post. Salute

Posted: Jan 18, 2012 at 2:32 Quote
I won't drill anything for sure Big Grin I'll try with shimms and let you what happened.

Posted: Jan 18, 2012 at 7:57 Quote
Nobble wrote:
I thought the shim stack affected compression more than rebound?
there's 2 shim stacks. 1 on either side of the piston. One is the compression stack. The reason you rebound is so slow is because you removed 2 shims from the stack. Making the rebound needle sit further into the stack. Restricting flow. what you shouldve done is add spacers to the stack the same size thickness as the shims u removed. Good job making your van rc a pos

Posted: Jan 18, 2012 at 8:47 Quote
oooo, so it works in other way than I thought Big Grin Ok, so now i know what to do. Thaaanks

Posted: Jan 18, 2012 at 11:38 Quote
but I have one more question. If rebound shimm stack is only to make a proper space for rebound needle, why this cant be made by just normal spacer. Those shimms have to play some other role. Maby the affect damping somehow?

Posted: Jan 18, 2012 at 11:55 Quote
Japierdole wrote:
but I have one more question. If rebound shimm stack is only to make a proper space for rebound needle, why this cant be made by just normal spacer. Those shimms have to play some other role. Maby the affect damping somehow?
On dampers I've had apart, the rebound shims control high-speed rebound, allowing you to tune low-speed rebound with the dial/needle, but the needle also affects flow through the shims.

I haven't seen the needle clearance so close that removing a shim requires adding a spacer though.


 
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