Hayes hfx-9 help

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Hayes hfx-9 help
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Posted: Jul 14, 2009 at 4:43 Quote
I've never had any issues with my Nine's! I guess I'm lucky.
I think you have to adjust the lever reach whilst bleeding them, so then you can bleed with the lever in the new position.

Posted: Jul 14, 2009 at 5:12 Quote
hey im not very good a writing these things so good luck in understanding what i have written but this is how i did it without buying an expensive break bleeding kit and it worked fine for me.

recently me and a mate have tried bleeding some Hayes 9 brakes and after looking on the net at some useless guides we decided to write on in plain English with pics so people can get a better understanding on how to do it as we had to learn by trial and error, this may not be the best way but it worked for us and the brakes stop me on the spot.

We also couldn't afford a proper bleed kit so we made our own and it worked a treat so not only will you be able to bleed then well but also at a cheap cost.

what you will need:

first of all you will need patience lol

brake fluid

squeeze bottle to “ push oil” with clear tubing ( I will explain later )

catch container

narrow clear tubing ( I used the tube off some old spay bottle)

wider clear tubing

cable ties

spanner


first of all attach on of the wider clear tubing to the narrow tubing off the spray bottle top using cable ties to secure them together.

Loosen the lever on your handle bars to rotate the lever upwards so the reservoir cap is facing up and re-secure.

Now fill the squeeze bottle with the other wider clear tubing and fill the squeeze bottle with brake fluid.

Attach the catchment container using cable ties to your handlebars

remove little clip on reservoir cap

push narrow tube into the reservoir cap hole and place the wider clear tube into the catchment container

place squeeze tube hose on the bleeding port on the calliper and hold squeeze container upside down next to your forks

push the pistons back and make sure you dont break the pistons and also remove pads,as my brakes were on the bike and so was the wheel, the disc stopped the pistons pushing out too far and i just pushed them back .

using the small spanner loosen the bleed port quarter turn anti-clockwise

start squeezing the squeeze bottle to push the fluid into the calliper, squeeze for several second and then stop and let things work its way in the calliper then squeeze again, do this until it starts to come out the clear tubing from the reservoir cap and you will be able to see the air bubbles come out.

Remember to flick/tap the hose and tap the calliper and push the lever down every now and then, this will help remove air bubbles caught in awkward places in the hydrolic system as there is some air pockets in the design of these brakes, not the best but it happens during production.

Keep pushing fluid through the calliper using the squeeze bottle until it comes out the clear hose from the reservoir cap tubing with no air bubbles at all, keep tapping and moving the cable etc to disturb caught air.

Once you have reached this stage the tighten the bleed port on the calliper quarter turn clockwise to tighten up. And remove the squeeze bottle and clear tubing.

Remove the clear tubing from the reservoir cap and replace the small black bung.

Once you have aligned the brakes onto the disc they should aligned with no rubbing.

Restore lever to desired position and secure.

That's it , it all should be working a treat now, it may take several goes at this to get it perfect and with no mess but be prepared for it to take a while , if you still have no braking power when the fluid comes out the top then check the system has no leaks and make sure there is no air in the system.

Posted: Jul 14, 2009 at 6:11 Quote
That's good tips about bleeding de sistem, but not solve my lever reach problem.

O+
Posted: Jul 14, 2009 at 8:07 Quote
Ok how far (and actually measure for us) is your lever from the bar when the brake is released and how far is it when squeezed?

Posted: Jul 14, 2009 at 9:37 Quote
its an unushual problem with the lever, to be honest i thought from looking at other peoples hayes brakes the distance the lever is from the bar when it is squeezed and released is the same for all hayes brakes as the do not have an adjuster like is on most other braked and if you bleed them how hayes tell you then they all should be the same, thats the only problem i found with these brakes is that they are not that adjustable apart from a little grub screw

Posted: Jul 14, 2009 at 9:51 Quote
sk8kid33 wrote:
Ok how far (and actually measure for us) is your lever from the bar when the brake is released and how far is it when squeezed?

2 inches released and 1/4 less when squeezed.

O+
Posted: Jul 14, 2009 at 10:03 Quote
pop the little black plug of your lever and let a drop or two of fluid out, your problem here probably was after bleeding you probably didnt push your pistons back with the fluid catch bottle still attached to your lever.

Posted: Jul 14, 2009 at 10:17 Quote
sk8kid33 wrote:
pop the little black plug of your lever and let a drop or two of fluid out, your problem here probably was after bleeding you probably didnt push your pistons back with the fluid catch bottle still attached to your lever.

I will try this tomorrow and post here the result.
Thanks.

Posted: Jul 20, 2009 at 4:06 Quote
sk8kid33 wrote:
pop the little black plug of your lever and let a drop or two of fluid out, your problem here probably was after bleeding you probably didnt push your pistons back with the fluid catch bottle still attached to your lever.

You are the guy!
It solves the problem.
The piston initial press point is now less than one inch far from the bar.
Thanks man!

Posted: Aug 20, 2014 at 16:26 Quote
Hy there, i buy some Hayes stroke trail pads for my hfx's 9, the problem is theyr very similar with 9' pads. My question is.. they will work with HFX 9 or i need to buy hfx's pads ? Cuz stroke trails you found them everywhere, less 9's... Frown

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