My Wheel Building Guide

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
My Wheel Building Guide
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flag seraph
Posted: Aug 16, 2020 at 13:09 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
I've never had a failure building without additional substances that was attributable to the lack of a substance. We've all had broken spokes and nipples, of course.

My main issues with linseed oil:

- Adds a step.
- As far as I can tell, it increases friction during assembly. If nothing else, the squeaking drives me nuts.
- Not convinced it helps as a thread locker of sufficient strength for this application. Maybe. Certainly doesn't do any harm in that regard, but if it doesn't help, then it would be a nuisance for no gain.

If you like it, keep using it. Maybe it helps. I still think there are better alternatives, including using nothing. Caveat: straight 2 mm spokes usually need something because they're so stiff they can't take up much movement without detentioning. Another reason why I'm not a fan of them.

I don't think that "adds a step" is a true con. Building a wheel is a series of steps.
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: Aug 16, 2020 at 13:21 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
I've never had a failure building without additional substances that was attributable to the lack of a substance. We've all had broken spokes and nipples, of course.

My main issues with linseed oil:

- Adds a step.
- As far as I can tell, it increases friction during assembly. If nothing else, the squeaking drives me nuts.
- Not convinced it helps as a thread locker of sufficient strength for this application. Maybe. Certainly doesn't do any harm in that regard, but if it doesn't help, then it would be a nuisance for no gain.

If you like it, keep using it. Maybe it helps. I still think there are better alternatives, including using nothing. Caveat: straight 2 mm spokes usually need something because they're so stiff they can't take up much movement without detentioning. Another reason why I'm not a fan of them.

A few things, linseed oil usually comes pre boiled, at $5.99 a litre at any hardware store it is very cost effective, it definately does provide a thread locking capability, which is absolutely a requirement for anybody who is hard on wheels or a bit of a Chunga.

I do think that better solutions exist, but most of these cost significantly more for a very minor improvement in wheel stability.

Generally I dip all my spokes in whatever spoke prep I am using at once it adds about 30 seconds to the wheel build time and reduces the likelihood of a bringback
flag R-M-R
Posted: Aug 16, 2020 at 19:19 Quote
FINE. Use yer dang linseed oil! I'm going to build with grease and locking nipples! Aluminum locking nipples! Razz
flag cumurph
Posted: Oct 28, 2020 at 12:13 Quote
Use slick honey grease at the nipple and carbon rim interface, or no grease?

Thanks!
flag R-M-R
Posted: Oct 28, 2020 at 12:21 Quote
The thickest grease possible.
flag GrantR
Posted: Dec 30, 2020 at 21:16 Quote
I used linseed oil on a set of wtb/321 wheels that kept losing tension. It worked like a dream and held tension like a champ. Looked a little dirty but was 1005 worth it. The wheels were losing tension every other ride and after treatment were solid for years.
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 3, 2021 at 19:33 Quote
Hey guys,

I am looking some advise for my custom wheels build. I plan to build a set of 29ers Ex511 with erase hubs and Sapim CX rays or D light (not sure yet).
I tried to use the Sapim spoke calculator but the calculator ask for the Rim thickness which I don't know because i don't have the rims yet, anyone knows the rim thickness for a 29 EX511?

I used the DT swiss and Pro wheel builder and one of the length spoke is 291 which is hard to find. Is it possible to up or down 1mm or the exact length needs to be used?

Also those spoke calculator work with 12mm nipples or 14mm, only DT says 12mm (if calculating with DT spoke).

Hope you guys can help me, thanks
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 3, 2021 at 20:33 Quote
Looli,

Why not Laser spokes?
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 3, 2021 at 21:00 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
Looli,

Why not Laser spokes?

Not sure, maybe too light. This is my first wheel set that I am building and the CX rays looks pretty good in quality and weight. I am 70kg riding a Privateer 161
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 3, 2021 at 21:04 Quote
Laser and CX-Ray are nearly identical. The Laser is essentially the round version of the CX-Ray - and the much cheaper version.
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 3, 2021 at 21:32 Quote
Interesting I didn’t know, but builder says that Laser are not easy to work with specially for tension
flag Nobble
Posted: Jan 3, 2021 at 21:35 Quote
Looli wrote:
Interesting I didn’t know, but builder says that Laser are not easy to work with specially for tension
thinner round spokes are more prone to winding up when you tension the wheel. The bladed spokes can be easily secured with a tool, that's why they're easier.
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 3, 2021 at 21:45 Quote
True, though bladed spokes on mountain bikes frequently get a bit out of alignment and I've not had problems with 1.5 mm round spokes on wheels I've built. If they're built with uncoated aluminum nipples and no lubricant, they're going to be a hassle to true. If they're built with brass or good aluminum nipples (ex. Sapim Polyax) and some sort of lubricant, they should build easily enough and remain serviceable.
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Jan 3, 2021 at 22:01 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
True, though bladed spokes on mountain bikes frequently get a bit out of alignment and I've not had problems with 1.5 mm round spokes on wheels I've built. If they're built with uncoated aluminum nipples and no lubricant, they're going to be a hassle to true. If they're built with brass or good aluminum nipples (ex. Sapim Polyax) and some sort of lubricant, they should build easily enough and remain serviceable.

Sounds good thanks man, do you think Laser will be strong enough for any kind of ride? I mean bike park days etc...
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 3, 2021 at 22:40 Quote
Depends on a lot of things:

• Rider weight and riding style. Obviously.
• Wheel size. 29ers need slightly more strength.
• Hub flange offset. This is a big factor. The geometry of the front Erase hub is a bit better than average and, most importantly, the geometry of the rear is very good.
• Spoke bed offset in the rim. Also important.
• Rim strength.
• Spoke count. Front wheels are a lot less demanding of the spokes than the rear.

Another thing to consider is where you use the thin spokes. Each side of your wheel has a different flange offset and, therefore, a different strength and stiffness. You can compensate for this by using thicker spoke where there's less offset and thinner spokes where there's more offset. I usually design wheels to use 1.5 mm spokes on the front right and rear left sides, then match the stress on the other side by using about 1.6 mm to 1.8 mm spokes, as determined by the wheel geometry.

 


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