My Wheel Building Guide

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
My Wheel Building Guide
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flag eastsidecycleworkswa
Posted: Nov 20, 2022 at 19:37 Quote
barp wrote:
pdon wrote:
Hey guys,

Sorry for the very basic question.

What determines whether or not you need to dish a wheel? Is it the rim or the frame?

I am building a new wheel for my hardtail with some current generation XT hubs and WTB KOM Tough rims.

"Dishing" a wheel just means making sure that one end of the hub (the location where it touches the frame) protrudes the same distance from the centerline of the rim as the other end of the hub does. This is something that needs to be done for every wheel build. It will happen more or less automatically on a front, rim brake wheel, because the hub flanges (the parts that the spokes connect to) are symmetrically spaced from its center. This means matching spoke lengths and matching spoke tension should result in a properly dished wheel (although you still should check).

Thanks a ton, that was a great way to explain it. I appreciate the help
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Nov 28, 2022 at 9:47 Quote
Hi guys, any thought on the SYNTHESIS ENDURO ALLOY RIM? Compare to DT EX511? Cheers
flag lilaubert
O+
Posted: Mar 6, 2024 at 23:13 Quote
Do you guys rotate the inbound spokes in the different way between front and rear wheels? I have seen some front wheel with the key spoke on the right side of the valve and inbound spoke rotated clockwise, rear opposite of that.
Also is asymmetric lacing better?
flag Nobble
Posted: Mar 7, 2024 at 1:20 Quote
I was taught to build wheels with the trailing heads inwards. I know people who insist on building with the trailing spoke heads out. It doesn’t matter massively.

If the driveside and nondriveside are asymmetric, it’s probably for ease of machine wheelbuilding. That’s not something you do with a handbuilt wheel.

 


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