Bike Painting Guides and Pictures of Your Work

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Bike Painting Guides and Pictures of Your Work
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Posted: Feb 12, 2017 at 3:07 Quote
Ha a bit of fun repainting my Balfa, went from black to red. Have to say it turned out quite nice

Balfa BB7 with Shiver. The plan is to build it up as my last ever 26er...

Balfa BB7 frame with new paint and stickers. Hope head set and seat clamp also a Marzocchi Shiver DC fork

Balfa BB7 frame with new paint and stickers. Hope head set and seat clamp

My Balfa bb7 is coming together. A slightly shorter shock gives me a 64 degree head angle. With offset bushings it s likely to be 63 5. The Shiver will be rebuilt asap. And a set of Hope discs will replace the avid discs. Hopfully I ll be able to find a decent rear shock as well.

My Balfa bb7 is coming together. A slightly shorter shock gives me a 64 degree head angle. With offset bushings it s likely to be 63 5. The Shiver will be rebuilt asap. And a set of Hope discs will replace the avid discs. Hopfully I ll be able to find a decent rear shock as well.

Posted: Feb 12, 2017 at 7:01 Quote
XCMark wrote:
USMC wrote:
Rothmetalflake.com Spray can metal flake Automotive quality. good stuff.
I have a spray gun and sufficient air, I should buy some flake!

Thanks for the link!
make sure you spray gun has a large enough nozzle. The really large flake they sell can clog standard nozzles or finish nozzles. The smaller flakes and pearls work fine in most guns.

Posted: Feb 21, 2017 at 5:09 Quote
https://i.imgur.com/brMjnPo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/W1L2Qkb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CLRVmUR.jpg

Here's my commuter, an old Trek ZX6000. Took advantage of the record high temps here in South Dakota last weekend and finally got it painted.

My question is... It looks really good, but some parts of it feel smooth, while other parts feel a little rough, like fine sandpaper almost. What can I do about that? I used multiple light coats of paint, then clear coat about 30-40 minutes later. No sanding between coats.

Thanks.

Posted: Feb 22, 2017 at 20:56 Quote
If you clear coated it and it's not dirt in the clear then you can wet sand it!

Posted: Feb 24, 2017 at 7:43 Quote
How many coats of clear? Your wording makes it sound like only one Coat. Like post above stated you can wet sand the clear and polish it back out which will remove some of the orange peel (hopefully not something else) to make the clear more uniform. If you went with only a light clear coat that may be some of the issue. If only a single coat was applied, may not be enough clear on the frame to accomplish that.

Posted: Feb 26, 2017 at 5:13 Quote
Multiple light coats of clear were used, but not as many as paint. Thanks for the advice. I'll try wet sanding and adding more clear later.

Posted: Feb 28, 2017 at 2:37 Quote
What you're experiencing is overspray. You've used a paint that dries too fast. As you spray the final portions of the item the first portions that have been painted are already dry. The overspray does not melt in and instead rests on top, feeling like a sandpaper or dust film.

Posted: Feb 28, 2017 at 5:01 Quote
trozei wrote:
What you're experiencing is overspray. You've used a paint that dries too fast. As you spray the final portions of the item the first portions that have been painted are already dry. The overspray does not melt in and instead rests on top, feeling like a sandpaper or dust film.

That makes sense. Is there anything I can do to save it?

Posted: Mar 2, 2017 at 4:46 Quote
A clay bar will help but there is no "saving" it other than sanding down with 800 and re-clearing with different products.

Don't even bother wet sanding and buffing. Your clearcoat is too thin. You'd burn through and you'd need to re-coat anyway.

Use a different product that takes longer to dry and go heavy on it. You want to dance on that balance point just before you get a run or sag. Light coats are a waste of time.

Posted: Mar 2, 2017 at 4:53 Quote
^^^^^^^This, perfect answer @trozei ^^^^

Posted: Mar 2, 2017 at 10:06 Quote
Thanks a lot. I decided just to leave it for now and ride. Later if I want to tackle it I'll start from scratch. Thanks for the reply.

Posted: Mar 8, 2017 at 19:41 Quote
On any large item you are only hindering yourself by using conventional spray paint. Spend the extra and have automotive paint mixed into a can with a catalyst.

Posted: Mar 10, 2017 at 7:59 Quote
Ive always loved the look of these frames, Looks great!
mankebab wrote:
Ha a bit of fun repainting my Balfa, went from black to red. Have to say it turned out quite nice

Balfa BB7 with Shiver. The plan is to build it up as my last ever 26er...

Balfa BB7 frame with new paint and stickers. Hope head set and seat clamp also a Marzocchi Shiver DC fork

Balfa BB7 frame with new paint and stickers. Hope head set and seat clamp

My Balfa bb7 is coming together. A slightly shorter shock gives me a 64 degree head angle. With offset bushings it s likely to be 63 5. The Shiver will be rebuilt asap. And a set of Hope discs will replace the avid discs. Hopfully I ll be able to find a decent rear shock as well.

My Balfa bb7 is coming together. A slightly shorter shock gives me a 64 degree head angle. With offset bushings it s likely to be 63 5. The Shiver will be rebuilt asap. And a set of Hope discs will replace the avid discs. Hopfully I ll be able to find a decent rear shock as well.

Posted: Mar 14, 2017 at 13:01 Quote
Looks like my perfect geometry that Balfa.

Posted: Mar 25, 2017 at 3:36 Quote

my venge after i custom painted it


 
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