Where can I get my 1999 fox vanilla float-r rebuilded?

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Where can I get my 1999 fox vanilla float-r rebuilded?
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flag Toma180
Posted: Apr 14, 2009 at 9:19 Quote
jonbikes wrote:
OR, you could do it yourself. If you THINK that you can do it, then with some direction you probably can. As long as you have a good technical knowledge (ie can fix a lot of random things without knowing how to do it ahead of time) then it shouldn't be to much of a problem. Just get the proper O rings, some grease (suspension safe) and some shock oil, and one of the members here will be able to walk you through it. I've never done an air shock, only coil over stuff for me, but I've seen a few pictorial tutorials before.

The shock on my bike was getting sticky,its a Fox vanilla coil RC 04.I was thinking about getting it serviced but it was not worth the cost,so thought id have a go at an oil change,I was worried about the nitro in the piggyback so drilled through the plastic bung with a 1mm drill(dont try this without gloves and goggles)so no drama there,just made a hiss,completly dissasembled the body and put 20 wt oil in.
The result is that it works like a cheap shock with basic damping.It did blow a seal on the rebound adjustment end though.
I did the same service on an old manitou metal with much better results after playing with the shims.
flag jonbikes
Posted: Apr 14, 2009 at 9:24 Quote
If you don't replace the nitro in the reservoir with air or some other gas (basically just make sure there's pressure in there and its a gas) then bad things will happen to the shock (more specifically the oil). Mind has gone blank on the technical term for it, but basically you end up with air in the oil and inconsistent damping, then you need to rebuild it again to get rid of this problem.
flag Toma180
Posted: Apr 14, 2009 at 9:37 Quote
jonbikes wrote:
If you don't replace the nitro in the reservoir with air or some other gas (basically just make sure there's pressure in there and its a gas) then bad things will happen to the shock (more specifically the oil). Mind has gone blank on the technical term for it, but basically you end up with air in the oil and inconsistent damping, then you need to rebuild it again to get rid of this problem.

The manitou metal has a shreader type valve under a little hex nut,wondering what fitment would work to put a bit of air in.When I refilled it with oil i pushed the IFP all the way till it stopped then put the cap on and had the shaft fully extended when i filled with 5wt.With no spring on I pushed the shaft in and it re extended with no charge.
I assume that what little air is in there is been compressed by the oil?
On the bike its very supple but with no propedal.
flag jonbikes
Posted: Apr 14, 2009 at 12:30 Quote
When you compress the shaft the oil that is displaced and moved into the res moves the IFP towards the cap where the valve is. The only problem is that that little wee bolt just threads into the hole, there isn't actually a valve there, at least not on the one I've had apart. If you had that bolt back in the hole and sealed, there would be pressure in the res once the shock was compressed due to the movement of the IFP. This is not enough pressure to keep everything in proper working order though.
flag Toma180
Posted: Apr 15, 2009 at 5:57 Quote
jonbikes wrote:
When you compress the shaft the oil that is displaced and moved into the res moves the IFP towards the cap where the valve is. The only problem is that that little wee bolt just threads into the hole, there isn't actually a valve there, at least not on the one I've had apart. If you had that bolt back in the hole and sealed, there would be pressure in the res once the shock was compressed due to the movement of the IFP. This is not enough pressure to keep everything in proper working order though.

Ive managed to pump 50psi into the res using manitous shock pump with an old adaptor that happens to just fit,wondering how the factory charge it with no valve?
flag jonbikes
Posted: Apr 15, 2009 at 7:29 Quote
They probably have a tool that puts their gas in and then threads that bolt in without loosing much pressure or something fancy like that.
flag ThatFoxGuy
Posted: Apr 16, 2009 at 13:20 Quote
jonbikes wrote:
nathanbalsdon wrote:
Im getting pretty sick of this Jonbike kid giving bad advice about fox products.

People need to learn that 98% of all the people on these forums are shit talking idoits who don't actually know anything about bikes, tho they sure think they do.

Your best bet with any service on a rear shock is to send it in to be service by someone that knows what they are doing ( or the guys at PUSH ). Sure you might be able to "fix" some coil shocks yourself but it will never be done as well as it could be......

** ALL fox float, vanilla, VAN and some specialized OEM DHX rear shocks have some level of nitrogen charge in them. Some up to 500psi. **

Excuse me?

I think you need to take a step back and smell the coffee, you have no right in saying something like that to someone you have no clue about. I've spent more time reading about how shocks and forks work, flipping through pictures, and actually tearing apart my own gear, than almost anyone on this forum. I have in no way given bad advice about a fox product, or any product for that fact.

No shock has up to 500 psi, and since all DHX shocks have adjustable pressure, there is no nitrogen in them. If you can find a source showing that specialized offers their frames with a DHX with NO ADJUSTABLE TUNNING RANGE (ie no boost valve, which is what makes the DHX a DHX for the most part) than I will happily withdraw that last statement.

How much research have YOU done on suspension and suspension theory.

P.S. back to the first guy who politely countered my post, it is completely possible to figure out IFP depths within reasonable tolerances without having the manual or access to the numbers on line. But, it is a hell of a lot more hassle and if there is more to the sealing system than a few odd sized O rings and whatnot, then I would agree with you, you are far better off just sending it in. Also, since this shock in question has a nitrogen charge can you not adjust the pressure in it at all? Does it have two separate air chambers?

No problem for the constructive post. Nathan's a feisty bugger. But we all love him.

Setting the IFP depth is not a 'close enough' type of thing. It does have something to do with the stroke of the shock, but also the preset amount of oil volume they want the shock to run in. We are talking about how .005 of an inch will cause a shock to leak.

All shocks with lockout DO HAVE 500PSI of nitrogen in them. Most Floats are in the 400-500 range, including RP2,RP3,RP23, RPL.

You could replace that with Air yes. But Nitrogen being what it is, is less likely to go past the IFP seal. O2 or atmosphere, in lower pressures is fine, getting up around 500psi, o2 will blow an IFP seal easy ( Nitrogen and oxygen expand at different rates as well ) . There is a reason we use Nitrogen and not just compressed oxygen. Its also safer for us not filling up shocks with a potentially explosive gas.

The 0-ring's we use are not just your average o-rings either. They are measured for exact tolerances at Fox, because trust me, if they are even a little off. Its a frustrating affair.

I agree that getting a new shock is probably the best way to go more for the newer technology but, servicing it is still possible by Fox, for considerably less then a new shock. If you get a used shock remember that you'll basically have to pay to have it rebuilt too, unless its brand new, or recently serviced ( ask for a reciept) .

Lastly specialized DO have DHX's without an Air Valve. They don't have the clearance on the frame, and therefore decided to use nitrogen. It works just fine, they even have DHX 5's where you can still turn the bottom out dial, as it just affects the volume of the chamber ( essentially increasing the pressure by about ~30psi ) You cannot increase it youself, and its not the optimum design. But it certainly does exist.

Nathan might be fiesty, but he also knows what he's talking about. He's probably rebuilt 100x the amount of shocks you have, and thats probably putting it mildly.

Hopefully that cleared up some comments that were made.

I still stick by the idea repairing your rear shock is not something to be done unless you have all of the correct tools and o-rings. Which outside of the building I'm in is pretty damn hard to find.

Want to fix your stuck down yourself? By all means! Fox has even provided walk-throughs online and video's to help you. Replacing air can seals is certainly something that can be done at home. Its also a great time to check and see if your shock sounds funny, or has leaked in the aircan.
flag jonbikes
Posted: Apr 16, 2009 at 13:27 Quote
Now that, is what I call a reasonable argument. Perhaps you could teach Mr. I'm a Dick how to do the same thing.

He may have rebuilt 100X more shocks than I, but I would still never let him and his ego anywhere near my bike/shock and that's that.

Some shock are easier to find O rings for like the Manitou/progressive 6 way/5th, they use pretty much all standard size O rings, it's not that hard to find IFP depths if you know who to talk to, and they are relatively simple shocks. Perhaps my lack of experience with many other brands has made me slightly ignorant to the facts posted in this thread, but that's no reason to fire off the flame cannon. I could probably talk your ears off about welding, but never would I call you, or imply, that you are a complete moron with no common sense who is not worth the time of day, no matter how little you know.

Now if you can refrain from running your mouth again, I am done.
flag doesnotmatter
Posted: Sep 9, 2011 at 8:56 Quote
Toma180 wrote:
jonbikes wrote:
When you compress the shaft the oil that is displaced and moved into the res moves the IFP towards the cap where the valve is. The only problem is that that little wee bolt just threads into the hole, there isn't actually a valve there, at least not on the one I've had apart. If you had that bolt back in the hole and sealed, there would be pressure in the res once the shock was compressed due to the movement of the IFP. This is not enough pressure to keep everything in proper working order though.

Ive managed to pump 50psi into the res using manitous shock pump with an old adaptor that happens to just fit,wondering how the factory charge it with no valve?

It's 160-180 psi!
flag oryxbike
Posted: Nov 19, 2011 at 15:26 Quote
doesnotmatter wrote:
Toma180 wrote:
jonbikes wrote:
When you compress the shaft the oil that is displaced and moved into the res moves the IFP towards the cap where the valve is. The only problem is that that little wee bolt just threads into the hole, there isn't actually a valve there, at least not on the one I've had apart. If you had that bolt back in the hole and sealed, there would be pressure in the res once the shock was compressed due to the movement of the IFP. This is not enough pressure to keep everything in proper working order though.

Ive managed to pump 50psi into the res using manitous shock pump with an old adaptor that happens to just fit,wondering how the factory charge it with no valve?

It's 160-180 psi!
the thread is over 2 years old.....

 


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